Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **V-JAY** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:10 pm

Cheers sergei... I'll check for codes tonight like mr30%jr suggested and post up what I find!

Looks like myself and Quirky are in the same boat, anyone else come across the same issues? If so post em up.

I guess it wouldn't hurt to unplug the cold-start injector to see if it affects the idle correct?

by **sergei** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:28 pm

V-JAY wrote:Cheers sergei... I'll check for codes tonight like mr30%jr suggested and post up what I find!

Looks like myself and Quirky are in the same boat, anyone else come across the same issues? If so post em up.

I guess it wouldn't hurt to unplug the cold-start injector to see if it affects the idle correct?

Yes.

by **Quirky** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 8:12 pm

On the twincam forums, where more people do engine conversions, especially the GZE's or 20v. Almost every one just puts up with the bad idle.
I'm switching over to an adaptronic ECU soon, so hopefully that will cure the rough start.

by **Quirky** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 8:17 pm

One more thing, if you have a front mount intercooler setup like I have, it can affect the cold start.

by **V-JAY** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 8:26 pm

Right I did the diagnostic thing....

The orange engine light flashes on off... on off... then on off... on off... and then a few seconds pause and will do the same again! Someone please shed some light on what this error is? I'm suspecting it's error code 22??

by **85AW20v** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:28 pm

Have a look in Tech FAQ's......

by **V-JAY** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 11:44 am

Ok, I believe this is what the code is, please someone correct me if I'm wrong! Now to solve this issue I'll try and replace the water temp sensor I'm guessing? Where exactly is this located?

22 Water Temp Sensor Signal
Diagnosis
* Open or short circuit in water temp sensor signal (THW).
Trouble Area
* Water temp sensor circuit
* Water temp sensor
* ECU

by **themaleman** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 12:46 pm

i think it is located eaither, on the back right of your engine, above where the dipstick is. OR its 1 of the sensors where the coilpacks are, thers a orange and a green plug from memory. maby try unplug them 1 by 1 to see if any of them affect your temp gauge.

im sure sum1 will know exactly where it is if im mistaken

by **Mr Revhead** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 1:00 pm

temp gauge for dash is not the same as the one for the ECU

by **ezy10s** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 1:43 pm

temp sensor is the green plug.
two things to do here - one is swap the sensor out and see if that cures it or the other would be to run a length of wire from the sensor to the ecu to eliminate the possiblility that the original wire has been cut or damaged and is earthing out somewhere.

by **sergei** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:18 pm

WTS will be part number 89422-20010
from here: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1992_T ... _8404.html
It will be similar looking to CSI timer switch but green plug instead of brown.
They will be close to each other.
Also bad idle, running rich is a good indication that WTS is faulty (or wire going to it). As well as ECU uses WTS to determine if CSI needs extra time to run and override the CSI timer switch.

by **V-JAY** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 3:12 pm

Wicked cheers lads...

I know where the green/brown plugs are (coolant elbow above gearbox) as I was pissing around with them last night!

I did actually unplug the brown one to see if she idled differently but didn't try the WTS.

I'll attempt to test the WTS but failing that I'll throw in a new or second hand item and see how I go.

Will update soon as.

by **V-JAY** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:37 am

Right... threw in a second hand water temp sensor and unfortunately no change to idle speed! Cleared fault code and now no codes are showing up at all - which I suppose is a good thing?!

It's still really hard to kick into life when cold, idles like a pig until completely warm, even once warm when taking off in first it wants to die.

Now all of a sudden it sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders but there's been no power loss (not that there was any to begin with). Am going to check the plugs tonight which is obviously the first step.

Any ideas from anyone would be great!

by **Jazza** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 10:31 am

Checked your timing? Could be a few different unrelated issues..

by **RomanV** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 10:39 am

Might have fixed it, but you now have fouled spark plugs from running rich for so long?

by **V-JAY** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 11:53 am

Jazza wrote:Checked your timing? Could be a few different unrelated issues..

No I haven't yet, can someone roughly explain how this is done on a 4agze?

by **V-JAY** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 11:55 am

RomanV wrote:Might have fixed it, but you now have fouled spark plugs from running rich for so long?

Good point dude, will find out how bad they are tonight...

by **celica_xr9145** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:01 pm

i know it sounds stupid but what grade oil are you using?

i had a similar problem and turnt out the oil i was using was way too thick, so went down to a thinner grade oil and starts great now!

by **V-JAY** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 12:59 pm

celica_xr9145 wrote:i know it sounds stupid but what grade oil are you using?

i had a similar problem and turnt out the oil i was using was way too thick, so went down to a thinner grade oil and starts great now!

Not stupid at all, I've run into this before! To be perfectly honest it hasn't got extremely flash oil in it or possibly the right grade? The intention was just to run this stuff for 1000km's and change it again with something good.

What's a good grade oil for a GZE?

by **ezy10s** » Fri Sep 25, 2009 4:49 pm

Just something to check(if you havent already)
Pop the top cover off to expose the cam wheels and make sure both dots line up with the markings on the backing plate when the crank is at 0degrees- may sound really dumb but I keep getting poeple coming to me for various reasons and more often than not someone has replaced the cambelt and mis-aligned the cam timing.
Cant hurt to check

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