Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **fivebob** » Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:12 am

As a rule if the settings quoted are in inch pounds, you need a good quality torque wrench that has inch pounds settings, i.e. small, probably 1/4" drive.

Though I must admit that I probably wouldn't bother using a torque wrench on sump bolts :oops:

by **Lurkin** » Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:17 am

I wasnt intending on doing so either - did so on someone elses advice.

any ideas on where I can get ezy outs from?

by **sergei** » Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:33 am

You should not bother with torque wrench on sump bolts as the sump is siliconed and the bolts only there to hold it in place, not seal it.

Website · by **offensive** » Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:54 am

b1tch better swallow

OMG so shiny! · by **Dell'Orto** » Fri Oct 02, 2009 12:46 pm

Roy wrote:I wasnt intending on doing so either - did so on someone elses advice.

any ideas on where I can get ezy outs from?

Any parts place, but be very careful as a small easy out like you'll need will also be quite easy to snap, and they're substantially harder than bolt metal...

by **Lurkin** » Fri Oct 02, 2009 1:00 pm

hmm had a chat with the old man about them -apparantly their not cheap either?

think I'll stick with the drilling/ hand drill - cheap, have the tools already and straightforward.

by **tsoob** » Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:19 pm

i usually just do the sump bolts up by hand ay they dont really need to be that tight

by **AE25** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 11:36 am

how bout a left/hand drill bit

i find the screw type easy outs better than the square ones. square ones tend to flare the hole wider which jams the bolt in tighter. those sump bolts are usually hand tight onces they've snapped anyways. maybe try a piece of rubber in your hand drill and see if there's enough friction to turn the broken bolts out. the stud will need the easy out for sure.

by **Lurkin** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 4:01 pm

Ae25 - the piece of rubber trick is a brilliant idea and probably would have done the job...

as an update

have managed to get about 8/10 broken bolts out. achieved this by drilling 2mm holes, then putting a star screw bit screwdriver diagonally into the hole and turning anticlockwise slowly... perhaps will post a picture on here, as there has been notes about solutions...

unfortunatly have also discovered a new lesson in the process.

One has brilliant mechanical ideas whilst laying in bed hungover.

DO NOT FOLLOW THEM WHILST STILL HUNGOVER!!!. can result in profuse vomiting whilst under the car....

hence there is still 2 left + the stud to get out.

the 2 that are left have been drilled out until 4mm.... will probably give up on the removal idea + just drilll and tap new holes.

in the meantime have been gather goods/ tools to try out the other ideas that I've been given such as:

- CRC 'freeze' in a can to shrink the bolt from the block, and help loosen it.
- easyouts (on the way via courier now)
- give up, drill and tap them a size bigger.

btw I'm not lazy - its exam time at the mo for uni hence the car has become a black hole of time...

by **XSVWGN** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 4:21 pm

haha wow this turned into a massive FAIL for something so small

I always replace those stods with more m6 bolts as the studs are just stupid.

Now you have learnt a lesson for the further 4age's you will own throughout your life

Matt

by **Lurkin** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 4:24 pm

ha its not over yet

by **sergei** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 4:24 pm

XSVWGN wrote:haha wow this turned into a massive FAIL for something so small I always replace those stods with more m6 bolts as the studs are just stupid.

Now you have learnt a lesson for the further 4age's you will own throughout your life

Matt

Studs are not stupid, they help you position the sump properly.

by **Lurkin** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 4:38 pm

any ideas on where to get replacement studs from? would rather just put it back how it was..

furthermore any ideas of where to get 'extractor studs' from for 4age extractors? they have a torx head on them?? bought some blacktop extractors but the clever bunnies took 2x them out before sending them.. would rather put new ones in than try and get the ones of my existing silvertop ones?

by **sergei** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:28 pm

Roy wrote:any ideas on where to get replacement studs from? would rather just put it back how it was..

furthermore any ideas of where to get 'extractor studs' from for 4age extractors? they have a torx head on them?? bought some blacktop extractors but the clever bunnies took 2x them out before sending them.. would rather put new ones in than try and get the ones of my existing silvertop ones?

pickapart,
local fastener shop (eg EDL)
toyota

Torx on the end is not necessary, they go in finger tight (as any stud normally does).

by **AE25** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:29 pm

i usually nip them up otherwise you may as well put a bolt in.. they'll come out of the head/manifold when you undo the nut next time otherwise. having the stud in there saves the head threads from being tortured everytime a manifold comes off. :lol:

by **sergei** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:44 pm

Theoretically nut side of the thread should be covered with antisieze material while the stud with locktite.

by **AE25** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:48 pm

yeap good idea. works in the head. not in the manifold joints.. these things seem glow red hot under my right foot :roll:

by **sergei** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 8:14 am

AE25 wrote:yeap good idea. works in the head. not in the manifold joints.. these things seem glow red hot under my right foot

Yeah I meant for heads and blocks.

by **Lurkin** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 3:52 pm

I was meaning the 'studs' that go between the 2-1 pipe and the extrators, not the ones in the head....

by **RomanV** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 4:52 pm

xsspeed wrote:As a rule doesn't gf involvement multiply the time to perform task by roughly 3.24?

It's 3.14, not 3.24.

But only if they distract you with a pie.

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