Coolant

[iOnic]

Sorry perhaps I was a bit harsh

What I meant to say is: There is no noticeable benefit to using distilled water over normal water. If you can afford to buy water specifically to go in your radiator then by all means do so and set your mind at ease but don't assume that using normal tap water is a huge no-no.

[Crucible]

Meh - coolant manufacturers recommend using demineralised water. Auckland water is sh*t - even I don't like having it inside me so why chuck it in my car.

Workshops cut corners and work to the minimum standard to get the job done as quick and cheaply as possible - even Toyota (especially Toyota from my experience). Mechanics I know generally apply a double standard ayway when working on their cars vs. customers cars.

Call me pedantic but I don't mind taking a bit of extra care.

OMG are you serious?? Do you put a blanky over your car and give it a kiss at night

Use tap water FFS!

[BZG Wagon]

Do you put a blanky over your car and give it a kiss at night

No - I just follow product recomendations when working on my car (especially when we're only talking an extra $5).

Auckland water is sh*t - even I don't like having it inside me so why chuck it in my car.

OMG are you serious??

Again No - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyperbole

[Makaveli]

What type of water should I use in my radiator?

Water quality is critical. Vehicle manufacturers recommend mixing de-ionized or distilled water with antifreeze. Do not use tap water, which may contain minerals that will corrode your cooling system and/or cause scale buildup. Do not use water softened with salts. The water used in Arctic Blend® antifreeze is de-ionized, which is chemically equivalent to distilled water. It has gone through EET’s multi-step decontamination and desalting processes and won’t contribute to corrosion or scaling in cooling systems.

Source:http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/antifreeze-faq.htm

"Check the cooling system capacity of the vehicle and add the required dose of Nulon Concentrated Coolant (do not pre-mix), then fill with soft clean or demineralised water. Any leftover product can be pre-diluted and used as a top-up."

Source: :http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Long_Life_Concentrated_Coolant/


Having said that, I have read a note on the back of the Toyota Long Life Coolant Bottle and they just say add "clean" water.

You are also meant to use distilled water for car batteries. It doesn't cost much, so I don't see the big deal.

[Crucible]

Do you put a blanky over your car and give it a kiss at night

No - I just follow product recomendations when working on my car (especially when we're only talking an extra $5).

Auckland water is sh*t - even I don't like having it inside me so why chuck it in my car.

OMG are you serious??

Again No - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyperbole

Wasnt a dig at you man, just seems rather extreme. But hey everyone to there own!

[allencr]

Does you local tap water leave a mineral buildup on faucets & blockup the small holes on the showerhead and not just a mineral stain, if not I'd go with it?
my opinion - The additive manufacturers recommended frequency is geared much more towards increased sales then increased protection of your engine, and Toyota's just looking for a chance to run up any very profitable non-warranty work & covering their ass.

[BZG Wagon]

Something I probably should have asked before I started....

How do I drain the water in the engine block? Is there a valve somewhere on the motor I can get to?

Is it also worth doing or should I just up the ratio a fraction to compensate for the fresh water already in there?

[Mr Revhead]

Drain bung in radiator.
Undo heater hose and flush with hose, flush backwards too to dislodge sludge/grit etc.

[gt4dude]

I remove thermostat, reinstall t-stat housing less the t-stat, jam the garden spray into the upper radiator hose and it comes out the thermostat housing running clear.

Also do the same - reverse flush the heater core if you've never done it.

Then I happen to know my radiator holds 4L and my engine holds 3L so I simply pour 4x 1L Toyota concentrate into my radiator, and run the car up to running temp and top up with water as necessary.

If you really want to bother rigging up some distilled water pressure blaster be my guest but aslong as you run atleast 50% concentrate you should be fine.

I've had my coolant boil over many times, and only ever when using green coolant. The Toyota stuff seems to have better anti boil properties, aswell as being designed for our engines there will be no harmful chemicals or additives. Just a piece of mind really.

[BZG Wagon]

Cool - thanks for the info.

I presume the thermostat is on the left side of the engine as you face it from the front of the car - behind the alternator?

[BZG Wagon]

...crap... can't get to the second bolt on the housing. How do I remove the alternator?

Starting to regret not paying someone to do this one!

[BZG Wagon]

The heater hoses were a b*tch to get on and off - but I got there in the end. Didn't bother with the thermostat in the end - too much work for a Sunday evening.

I also ran the engine while draining the radiator (with fresh water going through the top) until the fluid ran almost clear.

Does anyone know the approximate coolant capacity of a GTT? Would it be similar to gt4dude's celica (7 litres).

[gt4dude]

you should be able to get into those t-stat housing nuts with a long 10mm socket and a 1/4 inch extension and a ratshit.

yeah your gtt motor should be the same as mine more or less.

if you really need to get off the alternator, then below it theres like a black plastic cover which is in the way you have to unbolt, you will then see the long belt tensioner bolt, loosening it will let the pulley slide along and the belt loosens, then just look on the alternator for 2x 12mm i think bolts 1 bolts to the head, the lower one bolts to a mounting bracket i think.

then reverse disassembly to reassemble, when you pull the pulley along and refit the tensioner bolt and start tightening, i think the belt should only be able to stretch enuff to twist 90 degrees. when the engine is running the belt should turn smooth and not wobble, and should also not squeek those are signs of too loose or too tight

[gt4dude]

if you flush the engine with water until clear you should refill the whole radiator with concentrate which will be 4 of the 1L bottles exactly in my car, once running up to temp it will go down to fit a further 1 and a bit litres which can be water so you end up with 4L concentrate and 3L water in the system

if you simply empty your radiator without the flush then you premix 50/50.

[BZG Wagon]

^^ Thanks.

Spoken with a couple service departments - one reckoned 5 litres, the other 6 litres to 8 litres but really didn't sound that sure.

I've got two litres in there at the moment - I'll stick another 1 - 1.5 litres in and cross fingers.