Blacktop VVT pulley wear signs

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Postby .:O4AGTZ:. » Fri Mar 30, 2012 2:38 pm

Yeah dont bother arguing it with the seller. Unless you can prove he did it himself or knew about it before selling you got no chance.

Been through it myself except I was on the other end. Sold my GTZ and the guy drove from Wellington to Auckland and then tells me the headgasket blew and is seeking legal advise. I even picked him up from wellington airport in the car and drove him to my house when he picked it up! How dumb can you be!
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Postby Helious » Fri Mar 30, 2012 5:17 pm

wow that really sucks, gg
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Postby jacobrjett » Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:16 pm

is a "long block" what I am after?


i did a little googling and it seems that a long block is the complete engine and a short block is just the bottom of the engine

I have been offered a blacktop long block with 135,000kms for $850 :)
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Postby Bling » Sun Apr 01, 2012 2:35 pm

Doesn't sound like a bad price. I sold engine/gearbox/loom etc for $950 with 160km+, so pricing varies a bit.

Plus side to getting the long block is you can sell the parts not needed. What you get probably depends on what they consider to be a long block though.
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Postby Alex B » Sun Apr 01, 2012 4:45 pm

Just remember while you have it out it's a good time to look at things like clutch, rear main seal, cam belt, water pump etc. It all adds cost for sure, but you will be kicking your self if 6 months down the track you need to change one of these.
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Postby jacobrjett » Sun Apr 01, 2012 8:52 pm

ok might look into a new clutch. maybe get the box serviced too. it seemed to shift so easily when driving, but when its parked up in the driveway and I pretend im driving it (lol) it seems to get stuck a bit when shifting into third and sometimes 5th?


assuming 850 for the motor and around 500 for the installation (i will just get it done at a shop so I have receipts to show when I sell it in the future) would be like 1350,


what would a complete engine rebuild cost in comparison? also any recommended engine reconditioners in wellington that will do a good job for a decent price?

just trying to price up my options :) cant quite figure out weather a new engine, or a engine rebuild would be the way to go. if I got a new engine I could get the old one rebuilt in the future and chuck it in a rolling body for a track car...... (dreaming)
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Postby sergei » Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:13 pm

jacobrjett wrote:but when its parked up in the driveway and I pretend im driving it (lol) it seems to get stuck a bit when shifting into third and sometimes 5th?


completely normal. Synchros only work when moving.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:22 pm

jacobrjett wrote:what would a complete engine rebuild cost in comparison? also any recommended engine reconditioners in wellington that will do a good job for a decent price?


I wouldnt expect change from $2500...Custom Works automotive in Naenae do good work at a good price.
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Postby RobertC » Sun Apr 01, 2012 11:26 pm

I you can do it your self, don't pay someone to do it. Having a receipt for a shop doing the swap isn't going to add $500 value come time to sell the car. If you want proof its been done just take photos while doing it and keep receipts from parts you have purchased.
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Postby headshotnz » Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:56 am

Buy this,

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 619529.htm

run it till it blows,

Build a sweet blacktop and get it ready to drop in.
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Postby jacobrjett » Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:15 am

lol! dunno bout that silvertop! nice idea but I think id rather just get a new blacktop and be done with it. im not sure if I want to get the motor worked,

if I want considerably more power ill get a new car, I think 1.6 N/A has its limits lol. i wont go much further then the bolt on upgrades.

hmm I think i might be leaning toward getting a motor and doing it myself, just got to figure out how to do it without my girlfriend or mum freaking out (damned women)

$2500 is definately too much for me... I just dont have that kind of money (im a student) time to sell one of my hobbies I guess

well I know wat im gonna do now, just buy a new motor, hopefully in less then 2 month ill have a car again
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Postby Leon » Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:01 am

I'd hang fire for the moment, because you don't know for sure that your current engine is buggered, it might just be VVT noise.

Then, even if it is a run bearing, you don't know how bad it is.

There are a few different scenarios. You *might* just be up for new bearings which can be done with the engine in place (ok, yeah, that's kind of a longshot).

But if your crank isn't damaged, it might be cheaper to do a quick bottom end rebuild, than to risk buying another unknown engine that might turn out to be about to conk out, or burn oil horribly or something.

So, do more checking before deciding what your next plan might be.
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Postby fevil » Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:39 am

Had a similar noise in a BT a couple of years ago. Cost $600. Crank grind, rings, bearings etc. All depends on the condition of the crank.
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Postby .:O4AGTZ:. » Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:31 pm

Seems a bit like you may be jumping to a conclusion. Id get a professional to actually confirm that a big end is gone before jumping to that conclusion, as its an expensive one to swallow for no reason if you have diagnosed it wrong!
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Postby jacobrjett » Mon Apr 02, 2012 1:18 pm

yea yea i know :D im not going to go through with an engine swap until its been checked out professionally :wink:

guess i worded my posts wrong! im just trying to suss out my options at the moment. the mechanic that was supposed to come look in the weekend never showed, so ill just try get hold of someone else.

will update this in a week or two after its been checked out properly. thanks for your input guys! :D
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Postby Stott69 » Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:50 pm

Checked this out yesterday, ticking sounds like its coming from the valve train. Then water started pouring out the exhaust. So sounds like new engine or a rebuild is going to be on the cards. If your free to go for a drive Cam, a secound opinion would be good
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