ST185 GT4 been sitting for 8 years - pinging issues! :-(

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Postby solitaire » Tue Sep 25, 2012 4:51 pm

FSRRM wrote:
solitaire wrote:Hose and gravity is easiest.

Is it map sensored or afm? I had a 3sgte that was pinging, turned out to be a rooted afm.


Thanks! Good idea, (as much as the fuel one is great too but) I have a spare AFM that came with the car not sure if thats broken or not either BUT would anyone know how to test one?

(Loving the feedback, pretty sweet guys)


Compare the resistamce of each with a multimeter, if they are not the same resistance then its likely at least one is faulty, hell maybe its corroded shut and reading less air than its getting?
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Postby FSRRM » Tue Sep 25, 2012 5:08 pm

solitaire wrote:Compare the resistamce of each with a multimeter, if they are not the same resistance then its likely at least one is faulty, hell maybe its corroded shut and reading less air than its getting?


Good idea mate, I guess I will go buy a multimeter before I go home :-) Moved house so everything has gone walk abouts >_<

1. AFM Check
2. Empty fuel and load it back in; fresh

Any other ideas while we at it? :-P
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Postby solitaire » Tue Sep 25, 2012 5:14 pm

Have you followed the right proceedure to set the timing to factory default? Needs a livht gun and bridgeinv of diagnostic terminals.

Fuel filter is already changed i think maybe reset ecu by phlling ecu fuse for 5 mins once youve done all that
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Postby FSRRM » Tue Sep 25, 2012 5:18 pm

solitaire wrote:Have you followed the right proceedure to set the timing to factory default? Needs a livht gun and bridgeinv of diagnostic terminals.

Fuel filter is already changed i think maybe reset ecu by phlling ecu fuse for 5 mins once youve done all that


I bridged the diagnostics yup to put in base timing mode, then checked the timing and it red 8* which is 2 away from standard(Safer i'd think because of pinging)

Wouldn't taking the battery terminal be enough or should I just pull out that ECU EFI Fuse?
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Postby solitaire » Tue Sep 25, 2012 5:25 pm

Yeah pulling terminal does the same thing - but if you are only resetting ecu then the fuse is easier as you dont have to reset your clock afterwards :-)
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Postby FSRRM » Tue Sep 25, 2012 6:18 pm

solitaire wrote:Yeah pulling terminal does the same thing - but if you are only resetting ecu then the fuse is easier as you dont have to reset your clock afterwards :-)


Pulled the 15A as we speak :-) shall see what happens on the drive home ^_^
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Postby FSRRM » Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:53 pm

Ok, so I removed the 15A fuse and the car runs ****** awesome(a.k.a boosts hard) when warming up but once its warm it detonates ONCE and retards it self, while im driving it will boost hard maybe once or twice but most the time it will retard :-(

So what we know when the car is cold it will run richer, we know that a hot engine will cause the spark plugs to pre-ignite?(needs confirmation)

Also I tried taking the O2 sensor OFF to see if the car would default rich but NO difference.

I'm a little stumped
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:55 pm

Fuel pump is probably shagged and not supplying enough fuel under load
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Postby FSRRM » Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:56 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Fuel pump is probably shagged and not supplying enough fuel under load


How does it explain the car running mint when cold? Hmmm could be worth a try, where should i get one? T-Parts?
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Postby solitaire » Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:02 pm

You got a boost guage? Any chance the car is overboosting and going into nana mode? Dint think it gets wild with the boost until it warms up - maybe its hitting boost cut...
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Postby FSRRM » Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:04 pm

solitaire wrote:You got a boost guage? Any chance the car is overboosting and going into nana mode? Dint think it gets wild with the boost until it warms up - maybe its hitting boost cut...


Nah can't be that, it's the pinging remember before it gets to boost :-)

Over boosting though is interesting though, but thing is, if it's overboosting and it goes into limp mode it would mean it wouldn't ping because the timing has been held back :-( I think I should sell it.
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Postby solitaire » Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:06 pm

Just gotta work through the steps dude, youll sort it. Have you pulled engine codes? If the car is protecting itself there will be codes.
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Postby FSRRM » Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:09 pm

solitaire wrote:Just gotta work through the steps dude, youll sort it. Have you pulled engine codes? If the car is protecting itself there will be codes.


Man it's killing me, i might just go pull the codes now >_< should be still stored in the ECU after i went down the road aye?
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Postby solitaire » Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:12 pm

FSRRM wrote:
solitaire wrote:Just gotta work through the steps dude, youll sort it. Have you pulled engine codes? If the car is protecting itself there will be codes.


Man it's killing me, i might just go pull the codes now >_< should be still stored in the ECU after i went down the road aye?
yep, they should hold until ecu reset.

Keep the faith, its a toyota - it'll come right :-)
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Postby FSRRM » Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:24 pm

solitaire wrote:
FSRRM wrote:
solitaire wrote:Just gotta work through the steps dude, youll sort it. Have you pulled engine codes? If the car is protecting itself there will be codes.


Man it's killing me, i might just go pull the codes now >_< should be still stored in the ECU after i went down the road aye?
yep, they should hold until ecu reset.

Keep the faith, its a toyota - it'll come right :-)


No error codes, Flashes constantly, Darn :-( I need hope
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:39 pm

FSRRM wrote:
Dell'Orto wrote:Fuel pump is probably shagged and not supplying enough fuel under load


How does it explain the car running mint when cold? Hmmm could be worth a try, where should i get one? T-Parts?


Turbo VSV will keep boost low when its cold, once it warms up it can get full boost, which could be when your fuel pump can't supply enough.
For what they're worth, a cheapy Walbro will be a good option.
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Postby LEAKER » Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:23 am

I just replaced my fuel pump with a walbro on the weekend. It worked fine I just wanted to upgrade. $50 and its yours if you want the old one.
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Postby XS1V » Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:22 am

The fuel pump has a relay mounted near the injector ballast and AFM which the ECU tells to either supply full voltage or a lower voltage to control pump speed for economy etc. I would remove this or at least bridge across and bypass it to get full power to the pump and test it.

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Postby FSRRM » Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:58 am

XS1V wrote:The fuel pump has a relay mounted near the injector ballast and AFM which the ECU tells to either supply full voltage or a lower voltage to control pump speed for economy etc. I would remove this or at least bridge across and bypass it to get full power to the pump and test it.

Brad


Hey Brad, Question... Does this "plug" have a few wires coming out of it(I mean a few as in more than 4 lol) and does it look like there is 4 female pin holes that has a grey casing? OR maybe if you could take a photo and show me please, because this plug im describing is just hanging loose...
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Postby FSRRM » Wed Sep 26, 2012 4:15 pm

I found this near where you said :-) which ones do I cross? :-)
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