Rowland MT36 Intake Manifold...

[QikStarlie]

yeh they fit no worries. seems to just be the cams that require shim under bucket/shimless, that need the clearancing. as even the 193-d fit.

the guy at kelford was also kinda surprised at the rpm it was revving to with the 193b, on the initial setup. the changes made to the inlet and head, seem to be just as responsible for how hard it rev's, rather than than the cams themselves. im guessing most people that are running 193b are running fairly stock heads. you can see it on that dyno sheet with the stock cams, still making power past 8000rpm. factory smallport would have fallen over in a big way by then. wanting to pull past 9000rpm on 193b was just the intial setup. once i got the cams dialed in an fattened up the midrange, it starts to flatten out at 8500, not due to loosing any big amounts of power up there, but rather the midrange gains making it feel like it did.
with the big 193d cams and stock head it would die over 8500 how ever the cams were dialed in. ended up running the most overlap possible to fatten up the midrange. went ok, but was a mismatch setup.

short version; if you can get it all to work together nicely you will be winning.

[jondee86]

I was thinking a set of AE111 rods would save a bit of weight. Them plus
forged pistons, a light flywheel (maybe AE111), some headwork and a full
balance should make for a not too expensive but pretty reliable build ?

Was talking to a fella today who can take care of putting the engine
together, and he suggested Lynn Rogers for building the head. So if the
numbers seem reasonable, I think I'll be heading down that road

Cheers... jondee86

[1I1]

I was thinking a set of AE111 rods would save a bit of weight.

Internet rumours would suggest you're best to keep these away from your motor. Silvertop rods although marginally heavier than blacktop rods are the same as late 4AGZE's so are plenty tough.

[QikStarlie]

^ i would go with silvertop rods also. + some arp bolts. rest sounds good

late smallport are spose to have the same rods as silvertop. but all the ones i've pulled apart have had the big rods. maybe only the 4agze smallport, that was built along side the silvertop got them?

[85AW20v]

Was talking to a guy who dropped off a gearbox for me on Monday who runs a team of 3 AE111's in 2K Cup. He won the class on Sunday so obviously uses the blacktop to its limits. The only issue he's seen with all the BT's that run in the series is one that expired due to overheating - rods were all intact.

So if a BT can run in that series and it has to be totally standard, not even an oil cooler and taking into account the variety of drivers, then the rods might not be such a weak point that everyone makes them out to be.

[QikStarlie]

hes wanting to spin them up a bit higher than the factory limiter though. would be wise to use the silvertop rods, even for piece of mind. over very minimal gains blacktop rods would give.

[jondee86]

I was thinking a set of AE111 rods would save a bit of weight.

Internet rumours would suggest you're best to keep these away from your motor.
Silvertop rods although marginally heavier than blacktop rods are the same as late
4AGZE's so are plenty tough.

Not getting at you man, but I hear this all the time, and when I research
the threads it is usually someone who has never seen a broken AE111 rod
just repeating something they read. The only broken AE111 rods I've seen
pictures of have failed because of inadequate oiling or because the bolts
stretched or were not torqued correctly by the person who built the engine.

If the rods were as weak as the interweb claims, there would be dead AE111's
littering the highways of the world. And you would be selling a tonne of
replacement rods... and they would be cheap because they would be a high
turnover item... right ? What is the price on a new set by the way

I have read many posts by guys who race the AE111 engine in various forms
of motorsport, and claim to regularly rev them to 9000 rpm, and have never
had a rod failure. Of course the rods are skinny, so they must be weak, and
what would Toyota factory engineers know about designing conrods ?? But
I digress... if I do decide to use them I would most likely get ARP bolts, as
that seems to be the weak point on any rod seeing high rpm's.

Actually, this is a kind of interesting topic... I believe that the stresses in
the conrod increase as the square of the rpm. So reducing the weight of
the piston, pin and rod, is beneficial in high rpm engines. I shall be digging
into this a bit more before I put my money down

Cheers... jondee86

[1I1]

couldn't agree with you more mate, put the comment about the internet rumours in my post for that exact reason.

I put a set of silvertop rods (with ARP bolts) in when rebuilding my blacktop for piece of mind.

[jondee86]

Or for even more lightness and internal bling... CP 12:1 and Spool rods...



Not huge money and should be good enough for a N.A. build.

Cheers... jondee86