MR2 Fuel consumption?

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Postby Mr Revhead » Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:07 pm

10k20v... if those prices quoted above are correct... then subs are very exspensive!! 8O

while they may not be "hard" to work on, they are a bit fiddly, more a pita maybe?
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Postby Zero_Cool » Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:23 pm

Dr-X wrote:Four to five hours changing a cambelt on a subbie? Who's the retard doing that LOL! It takes an hour for a good mech to change a subbie belt - add all that other stuff and 2 - 2.5 hours max. Subbie cambelts are rediculasly easy to change.

And picking out one expensive mechanic doesnt mean jack. Here in Tauranga, the best subbie mechanic - Hamish from H & N Automotive charges $42/hr approx. PF Automotive, subbie specialists, are about the same rate as a normal mechanic.


obviously you havn't worked on them tight spaces rusted bolts makes for a long time needed!!! you try and take out the turbo and you will see just be sure u have a large can of CRC and at least a 1/2 drive strong arm
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Postby Dr-X » Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:34 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:while they may not be "hard" to work on, they are a bit fiddly, more a pita maybe?


Depends what you're doing, like any car. All cars can be fiddly, some morso than others, and with different things. For example, changing a cambelt of a WRX is piss easy, on an MR2 is a bloody mission. Changing a 20V cam is a simple job, on a 302 cleveland you have to remove the engine (usually).

All I'm saying is that Subbies are no more difficul to work on (overall) than any other jappa, it's just that most people dont know what they're doing. I've literally heard of people removing the engine to change spark plugs - they just didnt know what they were doing.
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Postby Spannergal » Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:52 pm

Dr-X wrote:
Mr Revhead wrote:while they may not be "hard" to work on, they are a bit fiddly, more a pita maybe?


Depends what you're doing, like any car. All cars can be fiddly, some morso than others, and with different things. For example, changing a cambelt of a WRX is piss easy, on an MR2 is a bloody mission. Changing a 20V cam is a simple job, on a 302 cleveland you have to remove the engine (usually).

All I'm saying is that Subbies are no more difficul to work on (overall) than any other jappa, it's just that most people dont know what they're doing. I've literally heard of people removing the engine to change spark plugs - they just didnt know what they were doing.


ultimately depends who's working on the vehicle - and how well they know what they're doing and how to work on that type of vehicle. it seems like many of the MR2s in welly are coming into the workshop (Toyota) for services at the moment and they are straight in, straight out, like other cars. That said I don't own one, so don't know what tends to go wrong.
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Postby FLAWLES » Thu Apr 14, 2005 1:07 pm

Dr-X wrote:
Mr Revhead wrote:while they may not be "hard" to work on, they are a bit fiddly, more a pita maybe?


, on a 302 cleveland you have to remove the engine (usually).

.

Dude
please
u do not have to take the engine out on a clevo 302 to do a cam chain, cam shaft yet cam chain no.. " ha i should read the whole post too :P "

i thought you were a v8 guy :roll: you should no this :P

a cam belt on a wrx well it comes down to how many u do to how long u do them for, for you to get good and fast at it
i know some a-grades that can do c.v joints in 10 to 30mins
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Postby Zero_Cool » Thu Apr 14, 2005 5:29 pm

heh i broke a crappy sidchrome strong arm trying to take of the 32 on the right wheel on my subie i will post pic soon
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Postby Akane » Fri Apr 15, 2005 3:39 am

Fuel econ on MR2?

NO GRIP's got 68kms to $20 of fuel on a session of hanging at roundabouts.

that's 15 litres to do 68kms
that's 4.5kms per litre.
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Postby 85AW20v » Fri Apr 15, 2005 9:50 am

I get about 3km/litre when I'm racing - thats with the 20v in the AW11. You've always got your right foot hard on a pedal - accelerator or brake!!
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Postby samlloyd » Fri Apr 15, 2005 11:27 am

wildcard wrote:Gen3 3SGE MR2 - 350km round town


:o thats terrible!!!


i can do 70-80k on $10!
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Postby Rollux » Fri Apr 15, 2005 2:56 pm

as a comparison, my sr20det powered wagon does about 110k's to 15l round town if i'm gentle. If i put the boot in it drops to about 65k's.

As for the difficult to work on thread, try doing a knock sensor on a V6 hilux or a pulsar GTiR. On the Hilux it is in the valley, and in the pulsar it is under the inlet mani, behind the starter, above the transfer. Not really possible with engine in place. Well, it is but it's almost quicker to remove the engine
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Postby GTSMR2TURBO » Sat Apr 16, 2005 5:53 pm

I get 40-50km to $10 of 96 thats just average driving, not giving it much stick.
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