Drag Shifting - New Battery - Airbox

[TazzieDevil]

Hey guys,

Just a couple of questions.

When drag racing, with the below figures, whens best to shift gears? Im currently doing roughly 5.5k, but not sure if this is gunna gimmie the best time.

I've only ever done launches and drags to 100Kph due to being on public roads. Its always been when no one (other than other TS'ers) has been around, since it can sometimes go awol.

So, i'll put my power figures here and see what ya'll think... mmmmkay?!

Max torque (i think :p): 550.0nm @ 5481rpm (141 kph)
Max Mower: 92.8kW @ 7278rpm (187 kph)

Pictures of the dyno run to come.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Battery, Im wanting to move this to the boot to give room to construct a cold airbox.
After searching, I can see im gunna be better off buying a new battery, since mine is on the way out anyway. Is it better to get a new "Gel" battery? As these don't need battery Boxes? Im working "slowly" on my ICE install in the boot, so having it inclosed later is fine, but don't wanna shell out for a Batter Box now, then just discard it later.

Anyone have a rough cost on a Gel Battery?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

[wde_bdy]

Whack your dyno figures through the spreadsheet at the end of this post.

http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=12934&highlight=

Callum

[PumpN]

rev it all the way out in every gear

as for the battery in boot thing, its completely up to you, you can get cheap lead acid batterys (~$60) if yours is poked but these aren't designed to last, and a battery box needn't be a huge investment, not sure on the cost but jimmy (loudtoy) should be able to shed some light on the subject, he has done all the work himself on his and he also did strapons (got20v?'s) bat to boot conversion as well

[Ebola_One]

Max torque (i think :p): 550.0nm @ 5481rpm (141 kph)

Seriously doubt this, divide your torque (550) by the final drive (should be a 4.xxx or 5.xxx number on the dyno sheet)

Buy a battery box from Barton Marine, its in the overseas terminal. a small one is big enough for the majority of large car batteries, it'll set you back about $30-35.

[TazzieDevil]

Max torque (i think :p): 550.0nm @ 5481rpm (141 kph)

Seriously doubt this, divide your torque (550) by the final drive (should be a 4.xxx or 5.xxx number on the dyno sheet)

Buy a battery box from Barton Marine, its in the overseas terminal. a small one is big enough for the majority of large car batteries, it'll set you back about $30-35.

Ratio? 4.400 *shrug*

See Super cheap in porrirua have bat boxes for $22 and $25 dollars.

[Malcolm]

Gear Shifting - I have found I get better times and trap speeds shifting at around 6,700rpm (redline 7,300) in my 185, it really depends on the car but reving it out to redline is generally only good on cars with no torque dropoff before the rev limit (which tends to be cars with a lot more than simple bolt on mods).

Battery - if you use a battery box it is apparently supposed to be vented to outside the cabin, as just having a sealed box will still cause build up of toxic/explosive gasses, and is very dangerous. I have an Exide Orbital sealed battery (gel cell) in my 185, it's a great battery (790cca, 1000+ca), but was quite pricey, like $320 and retail is around $430 I think. As long as it is well secured you will have no problems, I put my car through compliance with that battery in the boot and there were no problems at all.

[Ebola_One]

Max torque (i think :p): 550.0nm @ 5481rpm (141 kph)

Seriously doubt this, divide your torque (550) by the final drive (should be a 4.xxx or 5.xxx number on the dyno sheet)

Buy a battery box from Barton Marine, its in the overseas terminal. a small one is big enough for the majority of large car batteries, it'll set you back about $30-35.

Ratio? 4.400 *shrug*

Yeah, see look here:



Thats a shot of my dyno plot (with the irrelivant info cut out) and by going what's listed there, I have 706nm of Torque at 7616rpm.
For my real torque figure, I'd divide the 706 by 5.056 to get a figure of 139.6nm.

Damn! sounds like Supercheap are going to go along way to bringing various bits down. Do you know if the Upper hutt store is open till 9pm like the AK ones?

[TazzieDevil]

Max torque (i think :p): 550.0nm @ 5481rpm (141 kph)

Seriously doubt this, divide your torque (550) by the final drive (should be a 4.xxx or 5.xxx number on the dyno sheet)

Buy a battery box from Barton Marine, its in the overseas terminal. a small one is big enough for the majority of large car batteries, it'll set you back about $30-35.

Ratio? 4.400 *shrug*

Yeah, see look here:



Thats a shot of my dyno plot (with the irrelivant info cut out) and by going what's listed there, I have 706nm of Torque at 7616rpm.
For my real torque figure, I'd divide the 706 by 5.056 to get a figure of 139.6nm.

Damn! sounds like Supercheap are going to go along way to bringing various bits down. Do you know if the Upper hutt store is open till 9pm like the AK ones?

I'll put mine up when i get back to work.

I find shifting at 5.5k is the best, since after that im just getting slight gain - i tend to get through to 4th as i hit 100kph. just need to put it down the strip a few times, its kinda restricted on NZ open roads :roll

Not sure about the upper hutt times, i've only been to the one in Porrirua, don't take much notices of opening times, since i bowl up in the middle of a saturday or sunday.