Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **levin_it_large** » Tue May 11, 2004 1:08 pm

right my 20v blacktop levin is idling very high, when i turn the key. about 2K what is the reason for this???
MAP or what
help appreciated

by **Banga69** » Tue May 11, 2004 3:05 pm

levin_it_large wrote:right my 20v blacktop levin is idling very high, when i turn the key. about 2K what is the reason for this???
MAP or what
help appreciated

the cars cold so its the automatic choke, should drop down after it warms up. theres a lil screw on the intak where you can adjust the idleing.

hope that helps

by **levin_it_large** » Tue May 11, 2004 3:32 pm

is that the only possible thing it could be?

by **rollas22** » Tue May 11, 2004 4:34 pm

Mine used to idle rather high like around the 2rpm mark, once i adjusted the idle setter screw it was sweet.

by **RedMist** » Tue May 11, 2004 5:15 pm

Betcha it's a vacuum leak. More air into an engine means more RPM.

by **Loudtoy** » Tue May 11, 2004 7:29 pm

RedMist wrote:Betcha it's a vacuum leak. More air into an engine means more RPM.

Damn you beat me to it i was going to say exactly the same thing!
Another thing to check could be you tps, my 20v (silvertop) did a similar thing till i adjusted the tps properly!

by **Adamal** » Tue May 11, 2004 8:27 pm

Maybe the timing is advanced a little too much?

by **levin_it_large** » Wed May 12, 2004 10:34 am

ok i'm not the most technical kind of person can sum1 tell me where each of these bits is
cheers

by **levin_it_large** » Thu May 13, 2004 10:08 am

can sumone tell me where the TPS, where on the vacuum i should most likely look and on the intake where the screw is

by **RedMist** » Thu May 13, 2004 11:03 am

Don't touch the TPS. It should be set via a voltmeter, and I have no idea as to the voltage required. (Link ECU's have their own internal adjustment, Toyota do not!)
Vacuum, there are a series of connectors under the airbox, one that goes to the fuel pressure regulator, another that returns from the Idle plenum to the airbox, a few that are emmision control on the dizzy side of the engine, all will need checking. If your not mechanically minded might I suggest assistance from someone from here who is, or a mechanic. Generally the easiest way to determine replacement is to spray the joints with engine start, the engine will increase in RPM even more if there is a leak. However this reduces the life of the rubber. Your best off just visually and tactile testing the rubber for wear and replacing anything that feels soft or brittle.
Also don't adjust the idle or balance screws until you actually find the fault, you may be drawing in air and bypassing the filters, which will only reduce the life of your engine.
If it used to run perfectly okay, and now it idles high with nothing else changed, you can almost bet you have a vacuum leak.

by **DOHMAN** » Sat May 15, 2004 2:18 pm

I HAD THAT PROBLEM ONE MORNING I STARTED MY CAR UP AND THE IDLE JUMPED UP BY IT SELF AND IT WAS PINKING THE MEASNEST, MY MECHANIC TOLD ME IT COULD BE A VACUUM HOSE WE CHEACKED AND NOTHING SO WE CHEACKED THE TIMING JSUT OUT OF CURIOSITY AND IT HAD ADVANCED 30 DEGREES BY ITS SELF TO CUT A LONG STORY SHORT IT WAS THE CAM BELT THAT HAD JUMPED A TOOTH THE BELT TENSIONER HAD BACKED OFF, SO I WOULD HAVE THAT CHECKED OUT JUST TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE.

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20V idling high

20V idling high

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