Certs??????????????????

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Certs??????????????????

Postby rwd_mayhem » Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:25 pm

i need 2 know if you need a cert on any motor change even if its the same series (2t to 3t)? what if its just putting in a new motor thats the same (2t to 2t). if you change the struts do you need a cert? (corona struts in corolla) does changing diff need a cert? (corona diff into corolla). and i heard somthing really crazy - do u need a cert for steering wheels and gear knobs?
current: 1975 Valiant Regel
previous: 1980 mazda 626, 4AGE AE70 sedan, AE70 sedan, mk2 escort, KP60 starlet, TE71 liftback X2
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Re: Certs??????????????????

Postby pervert » Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:29 pm

As far as I know...

te71 rolla wrote:i need 2 know if you need a cert on any motor change even if its the same series (2t to 3t)? -YES- what if its just putting in a new motor thats the same (2t to 2t) -NO- if you change the struts do you need a cert? (corona struts in corolla) -UNSURE- does changing diff need a cert? (corona diff into corolla) -NO- and i heard somthing really crazy - do u need a cert for steering wheels and gear knobs? -NO-
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Postby 7apples » Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:35 pm

if every one did it by the book i dont think there would be a person on here that didnt need one. if you change the car in any way your ment to get one. even if its just slapping mags on
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Postby pervert » Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:38 pm

7apples wrote:if every one did it by the book i dont think there would be a person on here that didnt need one. if you change the car in any way your ment to get one. even if its just slapping mags on


Wrong, some things need a cert, others don't.
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Postby ee904age » Tue Jan 25, 2005 8:39 pm

2T->3T =Yes
Struts = Yes, presuming you are changing brakes etc aswell
Diff = Yes, as above
Steering Wheel = Depends on mountings etc if anything is modified
Gear Knob = Vaaaaaaary rarely. I.E. It will take one 'whack' gear knob to require a cert.
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Postby wde_bdy » Tue Jan 25, 2005 9:51 pm

http://www.landtransport.govt.nz/publications/vir-manual/

Go through the WOF manual that relates to whatever mod you're thinking of doing. It is pretty much all there.

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Postby fangsport » Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:00 pm

ee904age wrote:2T->3T =Yes.


please explian why it would. unless the LTSA have grossly changed the transplant rules.

it used to read , along the lines of " as long as it is of the same series of engine , has the same engine configuration ( no. cams,carbs ,efi etc) is less than a 20% increase in CC's and less than 20% increase in HP.

i am now going to D/L the literature to add to my collection as the last copy i had was updated in '99.
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Postby wde_bdy » Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:14 pm

The rules have changed a little. For a different engine to the one factory fitted to that vehicle -
compared with the OE engine, the replacement engine:
- is of the same or less cubic capacity, and
- has equal or less weight, and
- has the same or less power output, and
- uses the same fuel (petrol, diesel, LPG, CNG), and
- uses the same unmodified attachment points and system (ie, bolts-in), and
- uses the same ancillary equipment (accelerator linkages etc), and
- uses the same family of block and cylinder head from the same vehicle
manufacturer, and
- is of the same configuration.

So even a 3K to a 4K in a Starlet (where both were available factory) techically requires cert. In reality you will never be picked up but in the wrong circumstances it could be a problem.

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Postby fangsport » Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:30 pm

thanks for that ,Callum. the 'puter had a minor brain heamorrhage wending D/Ling from LTSA.

simple solution. strip the guts out of a 2-T and bang in 3-T crank, rods and pistons .

like the WOF guy is gonna CC the bloody thing (if he had the gear, and knew how to use it.
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Postby wde_bdy » Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:40 pm

fangsport wrote:simple solution. strip the guts out of a 2-T and bang in 3-T crank, rods and pistons .


Thats the stupid bit, you keep the factory block and its legal if you stay under the 20% power increase. Although, I guess you can understand it as they have to set a benchmark somewhere. Some cars have significant hidden differences for even mildly more powerful models that really require a more thorough inspection than a WOF allows for.

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Postby Bast4rd » Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:08 am

purple_beasty wrote:Thats the stupid bit, you keep the factory block and its legal if you stay under the 20% power increase.


you keep the factory block and you can increase your power by as much as you like was the impression i was under?
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Postby wde_bdy » Wed Jan 26, 2005 8:25 am

Bast4rd wrote:
purple_beasty wrote:Thats the stupid bit, you keep the factory block and its legal if you stay under the 20% power increase.


you keep the factory block and you can increase your power by as much as you like was the impression i was under?



Maybe you should do some research then, all this info is on the LTSA website. Certain mods don't even need to make 20% before they need cert, different turbo, external wastegate, or fiddling with the computer on a turbocharged car all require certification no matter what they do to your power output.

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Postby AXNGRL » Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:22 am

so basically if you increase factory power by more than 20%, then you need a cert? correct me if I've read it wrong, but if thats the case, then my old starlet needs a cert as the power increase has gone more than 20%...
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Postby wde_bdy » Wed Jan 26, 2005 12:04 pm

Since a lot of people seem to be asking questions rather than actually looking themselves, If you keep the standard engine here are the thresholds for certification -

the modifications result in not more than 20% more power than the OE engine,
which may include the fitting of:
- extractor or free-flow exhaust manifolds, or big bore exhaust systems
- changed intake manifolds
- changed or multiple carburettors
- modified fuel injection systems
- changed ignition systems
- alternative cold air box induction systems.
see Note 2.

Note 2 - LVV certification is always required for the fitting of a supercharger or turbocharger as a modification, or the substitution of a turbo or waste-gate, or the re-chipping of electronic engine control units on turbo cars.

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Postby Rollux » Wed Jan 26, 2005 1:59 pm

In the old days it was easy to tell if you had 20%+ increase in power. Not hard to spot headers, edelbrock inlet and holley carb on an old V8, plus the even more off beat idle of a 220plus degree cam.
But with new school stuff it's hard to tell if you've wound up the boost, tickled the electronics, put a bigger compressor wheel in your turbo etc if you don't really know your stuff.

So today you can get away with a lot. But it still is illegal, and it'll be interesting when they start making examples out of ones taking advantadge of the law, esp when the have an accident and kill/injure someone.
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Postby rwd_mayhem » Sun Jan 30, 2005 6:10 pm

i dont wanna get a cert. wof guy will never know the difference. if i get a cert can i get everything certed at the same time or do i have to cert individual things? screw that.
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Postby MR2boy » Sun Jan 30, 2005 6:29 pm

yeah its best to get everything done then get it all certed at the same time it will work out a lot cheaper
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Postby toyonut » Sun Jan 30, 2005 9:10 pm

te71 rolla wrote:i dont wanna get a cert. wof guy will never know the difference. if i get a cert can i get everything certed at the same time or do i have to cert individual things? screw that.


either dont do it and risk possibly voiding your insurance if you have an accident (correct me if im wrong) or do it all at once and only pay once, but make sure the car is 100% right and not just right with what you want certed cos they wont touch it if it isnt right.
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