20v silvertop smoke? and synchros

[EVL20V]

just wondering if its "normal" for 20v silvertops 2 smoke wen pushing high in2 the rev range and are the gearboxes good in ae101 truenos. wot things 2 look for in these cars. cheers

[slighty_sykotic]

Yup, its normal for the smoke. Its a blackish smoke, from running very rich thanks to the factory ecu being safe, shouldn't be a blue smoke from oil.

Syncros are piss weak on pre face lift ae101s (no idea about face lift, but i think they updated them). Esp the 2nd gear syncros *looks at his car*. But in saying that, mabye $250 for a good condition secondhand box? If its driveable i wouldn't worry about it.

If its superstrut get it all checked out, don't want to pay to fix that...

Umm, it seems to be normal to use abit of oil in the top end of the rev range too, ie, the more you have it up there, the more it will use. Nothing major though.

[EVL20V]

ok cheers for that. the guy said 3rd synchro at high revs but i didnt notice it, must b my lightning quik, yet smooth gear changes so all good. will check the superstrut if it is.

[Mr Revhead]

yup brown smoke normal at high revs/full load.

3RD gear synchros normal wear and tear, 2nd gear synchros are a sign of it being thrashed. racing 1-2 change from the green lights

[matt dunn]

ok cheers for that. the guy said 3rd synchro at high revs but i didnt notice it, must b my lightning quik, yet smooth gear changes so all good. will check the superstrut if it is.

So it crunches into 3rd at high rpm's?

I thought all toyota's did that from the factory? lol

Matt

[Mr Revhead]

they do if the trans code starts with "c"

[EVL20V]

he said it did but it didnt for me

[Caveman]

Then your not driving it properly

Seriously though my mums car has been nana'd from import and it crunches 3rd on upshift and especially downshift. I wouldn't worry about it too much.

[CozmoNz]

andrew, just get a bz-g they are faster, and hold better resale value

[EVL20V]

cant be *##@# looking im doin a swap for ae101 trueno hopefully

[CozmoNz]

supercharged? if its just a silver... um... they are a bit lacking

[slighty_sykotic]

O yeah, listen for a "ticking" sound at idle (once its warmed up and idle has slowed down) if its a 20v. Means VVT is on the way out if it's not already dead. *looks at his car again*.

I think it's around $180 for a new VVT intake cam pulley, that right Mr Revhead?

--Sykotic

[Mr Revhead]

$190


and its not a ticking noise, thats normal... its a rather drastic rattle

[CozmoNz]

simple, put foot to half throttle ish in 2nd gear...

youll feel the car sort of *want to go* but cant.. like somethings holding it back, hold your foot there, and when you reach about 4-5k rpm, that *barrier* will be gone, the car will seem to have no *invisable wall* anymore.

i guess its waiting until tps = good before vvt = on.

if the wall stays there, you aint got no vvt .

[Mr Revhead]

http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?p=284524&sid=0fea9973e8a3b8187589bd722e4100db#284524

[CozmoNz]

http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?p=284524&sid=0fea9973e8a3b8187589bd722e4100db#284524

good stuff man, on another note, wheres my e-mail about the sw20 shockies!

[EVL20V]

i probly get parts cheaper than mr revhead (genuine etc) mwhahahaha, i liked the feel of it and the "power"

[Mr Revhead]

hehe the only way to get genuine parts cheaper than me is to steal them!

[EVL20V]

yea thats wot i mean na jokes. i have contacts..
how bout a GTZ levin, common problems on them?

[slighty_sykotic]

No petrol?


Same things i guess, plus i think if the S/C is on the way out its a replacement jobbie as they can't be rebuilt.

--Sykotic