4k into a ke30(timing)

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4k into a ke30(timing)

Postby rwd_mayhem » Wed Apr 13, 2005 12:49 am

just put a 4k into scopes ke30, i just wanted to know a few things other ppl have done, the 4k dizzy is electronic and 3k 1 wasnt, so ive put the 3k dizzy into the 4k, will this work properly? its not starting with it in there at the moment, maybe timing? will the 3k coil be fine, will i need to get a 4k coil?

is a 4k much better than a 3k? if you put a 3k-h head on a 4k will it be much better? will 1 2t twin carb be better than a 4k carb?
Last edited by rwd_mayhem on Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby RS13 » Wed Apr 13, 2005 1:47 am

Hey man, 4K's are freakishly simple motors, if it ain't going, there can only be a few things wrong. From memory, I used the 2K dizzy in my 4K, ran mint. Has it got spark? Fuel? Does it start, then die? Or does it just turn over and not fire?

Crank motor over by hand to line the timing marks on the pulley to the TDC mark on the block, pull the dizzycap off and see where its' at.. if its' all lined up, got fuel, spark, then it should be going.

The 4K should run fine with the 3K coil; And if its' the bigport 3K head, then dropping it onto a 4K will bump compression up to 10.5:1 or something, I can't remember, but to see any decent gains, you'd need extractors and a decent carb.. 1300 escort (webber) carbs are a decent upgrade for 4K's. And the 2T-B carb, was tuned to run with another carb for a 1600, so basically using one carb tuned to run 800cc's of motor, isn't going to do much good for a 1300cc, so the factory 4K carb would own it.

If you want decent fuel with drivability, try find *K-B twincarbs, I've been in a KP60 rallycar with twins, went really hard, and sounded hot too!
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Postby scope » Wed Apr 13, 2005 12:44 pm

yeah it's getting spark and it has fuel, but just turns over and don't fire up. i suspect it must be timing?
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Postby rwd_mayhem » Wed Apr 13, 2005 12:52 pm

didnt realise u could do it with your hand, im gonna try getting it going today, now that ive got sunlight it might be a bit easier.

is a 3k-h a bigport 3k?
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Postby scope » Wed Apr 13, 2005 1:15 pm

find the clutch piece while you're at it ;)
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Postby TygerTung » Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:01 pm

3K H is the high compression one I think.
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Postby Dr-X » Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:14 pm

If it's got fuel, and it's got spark, and it's just cranking over, it has to be timing. Make sure you've got the timing right, and make sure it's not out by 180.
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Postby rwd_mayhem » Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:27 pm

theres 2 marks on the pulley, does it matter which one it is? and theres 3 marks on the block(20.10.0), do i just put the mark(pulley) to the 0 mark(block). and then i put the rotor arm to cylinder 1 lead aye?

cylinder 1 is closest to the grill aye? not the 1 closest to the firewall?

i had a little play around with it and it just dosnt want to fire.
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Postby fangsport » Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:57 pm

te71 rolla wrote:theres 2 marks on the pulley, does it matter which one it is? and theres 3 marks on the block(20.10.0), do i just put the mark(pulley) to the 0 mark(block). and then i put the rotor arm to cylinder 1 lead aye?

cylinder 1 is closest to the grill aye? not the 1 closest to the firewall?

i had a little play around with it and it just dosnt want to fire.



if you have no1 at TDC (0 on the front cover) and it won't go, pull the dizzy out, rotate rotor 180 dergrees and re-fit.
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Postby Dr-X » Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:19 pm

Yup, probably got it 180deg out.
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Postby fangsport » Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:37 pm

also check you have proper engine earth.


a certain Toyspeed member who couldn't get his new engine going shagged around with timing, proper fuel supply, fitted new plugs and couldn't get it to fire up.

the main earth had not been connected.

the starter would turn the engine,there was intermittent spark, there was fuel, spark timing had been set(and rototed 180 degrees) but it wouldn't run ,although fired on a cylinder at times.
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Postby wde_bdy » Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:56 pm

If you're not sure on how to check if your in the right TDC stroke pull off the valve cover as you turn over the engine by hand. You should be able to see that both valves stay shut as you rotate each side the TDC mark on the pulley. If the valves move much either side of TDC you are on the wrong TDC, turn the crank right around and try again.

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Postby rwd_mayhem » Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:08 pm

god damn battery is a bit flat from playing around with it, now ive got the jump start pack thing charging, when its done ill turn it 180 and see what happens.

the main earth is the one that connects to the firewall or is it the one on the drivers side or is there another one?

a few times when i tried starting it the whole motor just stopped. what is that?
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Postby YeMs » Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:47 pm

no 3k-b is the big port head that will give u high compression on a 4k. a 3k-h will also give u high compression but has much smaller ports. i have a 3k-b head sitting here i also have a set of k series down draught twin carbs if your interested u can have the lot for $200.also.. just tring to think, maybe u need to use the ballast resistor and coil setup from the 3k? and have u transfered the whole dissy setup over... id check timing and make sure the gaps and dwell angles are correct.
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Postby rwd_mayhem » Wed Apr 13, 2005 11:16 pm

yea the whole dizzy.
we think there isnt enough spark, so gonna get a new coil.
would it be a good idea getting new leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, spark plugs, points & condeser?
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Postby RS13 » Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:34 am

Yeah, line up the pulley mark with "0". If you're still not too sure, pull number 1 plug, stick a stick or something into the hole, crank the motor over by hand till you feel it at TDC.

I wouldn't think it would be the coil or resistor; my 2K jobbies ran a 4K dizzy just fine.
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Postby fangsport » Thu Apr 14, 2005 9:32 am

te71 rolla wrote:god damn battery is a bit flat from playing around with it, now ive got the jump start pack thing charging, when its done ill turn it 180 and see what happens.

the main earth is the one that connects to the firewall or is it the one on the drivers side or is there another one?

a few times when i tried starting it the whole motor just stopped. what is that?


the main earth is about 8-10mm in diameter , normally runs from chassis rail to block.
if you only have the thin one that goes to the tappet cover, the engine won't be sufficently earthed.
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Postby kingcorolla » Thu Apr 14, 2005 11:47 pm

Yep, rotate the crank pulley till its at no1 TDC. Now theres a trick with installing the distributor, first shine a torch down the shaft hole, and youl see the slot on the oil pump. Then look for a little dot on the side, and you have to line up the slot in the pump with this dot.

Now when installing the dizzy, the trick is to get the rotor to land in the correct position. Because its a helical gear, it will rotate on entry, and is easy to fcuk up. Aim the rotor directly at no2 sparkplug, slot it in, and it will rotate to point at no3 plug. Chuck the cap on, and check the rotors in line with the no1 contact in the cap.

Leave the dizzy loose-ish, and fiddle with it whilst cranking.

Do this, and if it doesnt start it, then well go from there.
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Postby solberg Fan » Sat Apr 16, 2005 2:06 am

kingcorolla wrote:Leave the dizzy loose-ish, and fiddle with it whilst cranking.

Do this, and if it doesnt start it, then well go from there.


But not to loose because the dissy will disconect from the oil pump (because of the helical gears) and you will $&#$% your engine if it starts. Ive done it my self...... :cry: *slaps self in face*
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Postby rwd_mayhem » Sat Apr 16, 2005 7:43 pm

ok, it just backfies out the carb, then after fideling with timing it backfired out the exhaust. the timing seems right, the rotor arm is lined up with the 1st lead at top dead centre.

so how do u check if its out by 180? the vaccuum thing is on the side of the dizzy so u cant just turn it around 180.
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