4agze

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4agze

Postby The Game » Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:53 am

k im thinkin bout getting a supercharged 4 agze for my 96 trueno sprinter which currently has a 4afe silvertop 16v.

wondering if i put in a 4agze,what else would i need to change.
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Postby RomanV » Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:08 am

Talk to, or PM a guy called 'Kov'....

He is planning something similar.
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Postby fx gt » Mon Jan 30, 2006 11:41 am

do u know 50 cent :P
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Postby Kov » Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:33 pm

I'm in the process of replacing my 4afe with a 4agte at the moment, I picked up a ae101 gze front cut for $1600+gst (I know that's pricey but they're getting really hard to find and I was in need :P).

that scored me the engine in mint running condition with 140K's, the E58 LSD Box which if you want to be putting out more than factory power you will definately want, and axles that will also need to be carried over.

If you have a decent budget trying to find a whole front cut will save alot of time and searching for bits that may be missing from a second hand engine, other than that it's a really straight forward conversion - use all the standard engine mounts and theres ALOT of people that have done it before :D

you may find some advice in here viewtopic.php?t=41428 - my project :lol:
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Postby matt dunn » Mon Jan 30, 2006 11:39 pm

I would go the other route.

I would go 20V turbo as it will be cheaper and easier in my opinion.

Rather than a $1600 fron cut use,

S/H 20V $400
Rebuild with ZE pistons rings head gasket and rod bolts $800

Then build a turbo manifold to suit your selected turbo and run an aftermarket ECU.

STD gearbox will do. Never heard of one breakind due to excess power,
only ever syncro problems.

you should be able to get a loom that will almost plug into the 20V engine and your car, and just mod the ECU onto the end of it.

ZE transplants are never as easy as they seem.

Matt
7AGTE - DX20VT - viewtopic.php?t=59733
Discussion - viewtopic.php?t=59751
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:41 am

as above.
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Postby Adamal » Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:48 am

matt dunn wrote:ZE transplants are never as easy as they seem.


Very true. I helped with one a couple of months back and its STILL not running :P
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby XS1V » Tue Jan 31, 2006 11:06 pm

Adamal wrote:Very true. I helped with one a couple of months back and its STILL not running :P


Shut Up :oops:

If you find me a regulator maybe we could turn it over 8)
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Tue Jan 31, 2006 11:53 pm

Adamal wrote:
matt dunn wrote:ZE transplants are never as easy as they seem.


Very true. I helped with one a couple of months back and its STILL not running :P



*sigh* I really should listen to you smart people...

2.5k later and my 4agze into ae101 into 4agte is almost done.... :oops:


On the bright side tho, do you want to buy my 20v "The Game" ? :p

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Postby RomanV » Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:48 am

Adamal wrote:Very true. I helped with one a couple of months back and its STILL not running :P


Perhaps thats why? :twisted:
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Postby Adamal » Wed Feb 01, 2006 4:27 pm

Don't make me start using bearing jokes Dave :P
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby Kov » Wed Feb 01, 2006 6:08 pm

anyone else find the factory clutch really big and flywheel really light :twisted: ? got around to pulling my gearbox off today and getting the engine on a stand, was pleasantly surprised with what i found, flywheel weighs about half as much as my mates 1.3ltr citroen in comparison!

anyone know exactly how much the flywheel weighs by chance? and is there much room for further lightening?
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Postby Adamal » Wed Feb 01, 2006 6:57 pm

Lightening a flywheel = Bad.

Buy a flywheel that has been made to from scratch to be light.
Lightened ones are prone to developing stress fractures unevenly over the flywheel, making it weaker in parts.

Also, I'd say its got a light one as its got a broader torque band. Doesn't need the rotational inertia as much to keep it going for daily driving situations.
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Postby The Game » Thu Feb 02, 2006 12:21 am

slighty_sykotic wrote:
On the bright side tho, do you want to buy my 20v "The Game" ? :p

--Sykotic


this is a turbo, right?
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Thu Feb 02, 2006 11:44 am

Nah, i pulled out my 20v and put in a 4agze, big mistake. Would have been easier to turbo 20v. But, if you want a 4agze, buy a 20v and turbo it. Easier, cheaper, and more power.

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Postby RAZA » Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:05 pm

slighty_sykotic wrote:Easier, cheaper, and more power.

--Sykotic


Surely its not that much cheaper - matt's price above comes to 1200 plus an aftermarket ecu which from what I've been able to find will cost at least a grand, which takes you pretty close to the 2500 that its cost to covert the gze?
(as long as you can use the gze ecu)

I'm not saying that its the way to go tho, if you rebuild a 20v with new gear you're better off than with some old thrashed gze that cost the same amount.
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Postby ezy10s » Thu Feb 02, 2006 7:18 pm

dont forget the old 7afe!(1800cc)

can always swap straight in a 7afe and turbo that-aka TWSTD's old carib.
Or even swap the head for a GE unit and turb0 that- with just a straight head swap the compression drops to approx 8.1-1.


easiest way i see is standard 7afe with turbo on it. engines are easy to get from wreckers and well priced.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Feb 02, 2006 7:22 pm

your a bad influence!!

after talking to glen i priced some 7afe short blocks. $350-500.
hmmmmmm :wink:
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Postby Adamal » Thu Feb 02, 2006 7:39 pm

None of that foul language. No 'F' usage here please.
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Thu Feb 02, 2006 7:45 pm

RAZA wrote:
slighty_sykotic wrote:Easier, cheaper, and more power.

--Sykotic


Surely its not that much cheaper - matt's price above comes to 1200 plus an aftermarket ecu which from what I've been able to find will cost at least a grand, which takes you pretty close to the 2500 that its cost to covert the gze?
(as long as you can use the gze ecu)

I'm not saying that its the way to go tho, if you rebuild a 20v with new gear you're better off than with some old thrashed gze that cost the same amount.


Ok, i see your point, but in "cheaper" add in all of the time and trouble of getting all of the acc's to line up and work properly in the body. It might cost you a bit more, but yeah, you will end up with a NEW motor (basically, esp if you do bearings, seals etc), which will have more power that a 16v gze converted.

And you get the bonus (and negtive cost i spose) of an aftermarket ecu, which will allow you to get the best out of your motor.



BUT,
I didnt listen to everyone's advice :P .

I brought a s/c mr2 for $600 (damn you mr rev head), spent 1200 on new bits (did everything, pistons, rings, bearings, seals) as the motor was basically $&#$%.

About 600 in machining costs (rebuild head and overbore block + acid dips)

Then came the $450 manifold (thanks evil_si).

$100 td04 turbo from gsr

Hours of screwing around to get powersteering and things mounted

couple of hundred in intercooler piping and exhaust

about 400 in shit i don't remember...

Dam, i told myself I wouldnt try and remember the prices... It hurts too much...


O yeah, and i need a knock sensor, my $&#$% mate broke mine...
Scared to ask mr revhead... and plus, i can't... his email server bounces my emails everytime.


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