my new ae82 (hmmm)

[samlloyd]

So today i bought this http://img105.imageshack.us/img105/7053/mycar9co.jpg



from over in tauganga. Wof + reg and under $1300(haggled)

Get home, and i see this..
http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=oil17po.jpg
In thiis, you can see oil on the front side of the crank? pully.
http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=enginebay18gp.jpg
http://img469.imageshack.us/my.php?image=undercar11dk.jpg

Is this the crank seal?
Does a redtop bolt right in?

cheers, sam

[AE91Sprinter]

real camera + real shots would be useful (the undercar is just jpg compression/bad light sensor city)...

I dont see what we're meant to be looking at in the first pic, if its the front crank, how the hell are you meant to see it through everything else...

[Truenotch]

That last pic looks real freaky.

I think it could (Hopefully) Just be the dizzy seal (O-ring). It's pretty easy to do on an fx.

[samlloyd]

Will put on hoist hopefully tommorow. Its just cell phone pics at the moment. The oily area is near bottom pully. Front seal for the timing belt assembly maybe? Will take pics tommorow hopefully

Sorry about vauge ness.

Another thing im not sure if its common with this shape, but the Fuel gauge doesnt seem to work. Its reading low, then below e, then jumps up to quarter, but it actually has a near full tank?

[Mr Revhead]

prob is crank seal

yes redtop will bolt in. wires dont bolt though.

could be dodgy sender.. reasonably common

[samlloyd]

Thanks revhead,
Does the motor need to be removed for it to be done? What would a resonable garage charge for this to be sorted out?

What does the sender look like and is it on top of the tank?

[rotorchiki69]

ok redtop bolts straightup the non tvis one has ifferent wiring the tvis redtop can use your wiring its just a blue top with red writing

check the dizzy seal like someone said because they always go

i think the fuel gauge sender is under the back seat wires goingto a tin plate unbolt it and u can see the top of the fuel tank unbolt the sender
lol no engine doesnt need to come out

even if it is a crank seal if its not too bad just put up with it check the oil ect regularly these things are getn old now and mabe wait til u find a mint low kays ae92 tvis engie to swap in

[samlloyd]

Thanks heaps for that.

I took it to a garage down the road. He said yeah, it looks like a crank seal, if i was you i'd do the cambelt aswell.

He quoted $500-600
and it would take 1-2days

Sound fair?

[samlloyd]

and whats this?
http://img49.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rearstrut1vq.jpg
( the wire connector)

[Mr Revhead]

speaker wire maybe?

yes if your crank seal has been leaking it is wise to do the cambelt.
that price is prob on the steep side, but they could be allowing for hassles. talk to them and ask how long they think they will actually spend on the job. as its really only a 3 hour job.
i would expect the tensioner and cam seals to be done and maybe even the water pump.
for an idea of parts:
cambelt $45
tensioner $55
cam seals $15-20 each
crank seal $18-24
water pump $120
all rrp plus gst

[samlloyd]

Do you mind if i go and talk to them and quote basically what you said there? And give them the indicative prices? Or is that not a good thing to do?

[Mr Revhead]

just have a talk to them and ask what exactly they quoted you for.... ask for quote from some other places..... you may just live where ppl charge too much

[samlloyd]

booked it in for tues

I will phone around on monday though, working 7-5 has its downside.

[samlloyd]

Ok, onto the fuel gauge

This pic shows the top of the fuel tank where the float sits into.
http://img107.imageshack.us/my.php?image=560a01977lt.jpg


This shows the screw pattern of how the float stays in there
http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=560a01983ld.jpg

And this is the float it self. (i know the black plastic part is the float, but not sure on the other metal thing with a bit of copper wire attached to it)
http://img222.imageshack.us/my.php?image=560a01996ys.jpg

So,
My fuel gauge wasnt reading properly. By that, i mean that it was reading E, but it would flicker up and back to E again.

I pulled the float out, and connected its plug back up. I then moved the float to the maximum posistion with my finger. The needle on the dash moved (slowly) to the full mark.

So i put it back in the tank, with all the holes alligned so i could screw it back in, but the gauge was reading E again.

So after mucking around with the alignment of the holes, i could rotate around (none of the holes were matching up though, so i couldnt tighten it into place) and the gauge started moving, up to half. and stayed there.

So it feels like when the float mount is all aligned with the holes that it screws into, like the float is hitting something, like the wall of the tank or something, and its not actually floating. But if i rotate it, it becomes free of its obsticle and reads properly.

I really want to be able to put all 5 srews back in, because if i dont, chances are when i fill it up next, it will leak into my back seat (which ive taken out)

[samlloyd]

Cool, crank seal done today as well as cambelt and tensioner. In need of a new sump though, as the old one has had a decent wack

Estimated price for that mr revhead, if you stumble across this.

I mite just ask him not to worry about doing the sump now, and ill look for a 2nd hand one and come back when i have one? (xmember needs to be unbolted etc)

[overcast]

have you checked the condition of the underside of your tank?? it could perhaps have a massive dent in it which would make it read differently..