Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **matt9ball** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 10:45 pm

i have a silver top put into my levin but it does not run properly it has a auto loom in it and a auto ecu and some monkeys wired it up and three other auto electrical places have there heads off in wounder land!!all of these people from talking to them sound like they dont know much about 20vs!!!they just going off what most cars have!!it starts but wont run very smooth you drive down the street and it chucks you all over the show its not drivable!!!i read in a old post you need to jump two wires on the selector plug to run the auto ecu in a manual??how to do this? because the manual loom dosent fit!the guys who worked on my car think auto ecu wont matter!!sounds sh#t to me.im about to spend $2000 on a link with loom plus tuned if you guys cant help???as it will ffix this problem!!!!!!help!!!!

by **Mr Revhead** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 10:48 pm

if the selector plug isnt bridged it wont even start

so it sounds like your problem is else where

by **sergei** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 10:57 pm

If your car starts, it means that start inhibitor already jumped.
actually the way it is setup, all the EFI sensors are on separate engine loom form chasis wiring loom, it means that you have to only supply 12v to ECU (in couple of places, will get error code if not), 12v to fuel pump, and jump the start switch and the car should idle/run fine (except that you will get error code for speed sensor which is routed through the speedometer).
Did you check your error codes?
Coming from your simptoms, you might have an air/vacuum leak, or faulty AFM, or ECU. There is no need to use manual ECU to run manual. (however if you really want to do this, you will need to get manual loom + ECU, but I don't see any point).
Double check all the hoses if they are connected properly, what sort of engine was there before?
if it was 4AFE it means it does not have P/S idle up valve, so you will have to block it on the plenium, check if A/C idle up valve connected (or hose blocked) - the hose for it is located on pipe between the plenium and AFM on the firewall side, check if PCV valve working.
Did you check your cambelt before installing the engine?

by **matt9ball** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:10 pm

im not the best when it comes to really tech crap like this.it was a 4afe in it befor now its a s/t juas got a new cambelt when got it.and hose seem fine as i can see.oh ok so its bridged because it starts??

by **matt9ball** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:11 pm

and codes are fine as im told.

by **sergei** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:15 pm

Where are you located? if in Auckland and if you want me to have a look give me pm, I'm usally free on weekends..

by **matt9ball** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:15 pm

ive tryed 4 ecus or should i say own now and two airflowmeters.

by **matt9ball** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:17 pm

in chch dam it.who do you recommend down here or what should i do?tick up the link with loom and tuned for 2k

by **deaf_rattle** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:22 pm

sounds like the timing is all $&#$%.
try adjusting the dizzy

by **matt9ball** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:24 pm

how do you block the p/s vavle since it had a 4afe?and a/c vavle was located by afm??how can i tell if its the a/c valve sorry more still in the basic automotive stuff.

by **matt9ball** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:26 pm

im told its running richer than bill gates himself too haha im not laughing

by **sergei** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:28 pm

if codes are fine, you've tried different ecu, different afm, and providing the grounding is all good (did you check if ecu is properly grounded to chassis and wiring loom grounded to head next to thermostat housing, from memory?) and car runs very rough (ie similar to random misfire/out of fuel feeling) it means the engine sucks unmetered air somewhere or fuel pump is not providing enough fuel.
Did you see the engine running, before you installed?
What happens when you press gas at idle, does it tries to stall?
What happens at higher RPMs (say above 2500rpm) does it run any better?
Does it change behaviour if the engine is hot or cold?
Can you describe better the sound that engine makes?

by **sergei** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:36 pm

These engines can run VERY VERY RICH, and still run more or less smoothly.
There is other posibility - faulty injectors. This can cause spray pattern to be non existant and run like crap, however on higher RPMs it would not matter much.
Did you take out injectors by any chance? Where I'm going is that if you put the injectors back with original o-ring they might be damaged and leak fuel causing very rich situation. Check the spark plugs if they are covered in inburned fuel and tail pipe is damp from fuel, it means that it gets flooded with gas (might to pay to have a look at injectors/o-rings). Could you please tell me what colour are the injectors (plastic part)?

by **matt9ball** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:41 pm

know one has put ecu back bolted in when trying the ecus just leaving it all on passenger side on the ground!it idles fine say over 2k it starts to run really rough like its choking or something.high rpm just gets worse.but when i left it idling for about 30 mins it went 85% better and i could drive it but it would pull like it was trying to break through ever now and then but when i turned the car off it went back to shit!!!but it seemed to improve when i would wiggle the wires to one side or stall the engine!

by **matt9ball** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:45 pm

white grey off memory cars around the road at the mo.ive been told that injectors have been checked.

by **matt9ball** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:51 pm

battery is dead and needs to be jumped everytime turned doesnt change anything??

by **johntramp** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:56 pm

sergei wrote:you have to only supply 12v to ECU (in couple of places, will get error code if not), 12v to fuel pump, and jump the start switch and the car should idle/run fine (except that you will get error code for speed sensor which is routed through the speedometer).

Hey I am trying to wire a blacktop into an AE85. Is there anything more than this? At the moment I am getting no spark or anything when I turn the car over. I think the ecu is not turning on. Is there any chance you can elaborate on this, ie what couple of places etc? I have a pinout diagram for the ecu and have done what I thought would be enough to have it start... but there is nothing.

Cheers

by **Ae92typeX** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:56 pm

matt9ball wrote:battery is dead and needs to be jumped everytime turned doesnt change anything??

Im sure you would have, but-have you tried on a non dead battery? a crapped out battery can make a car run like a pig, then eventually stop

by **sergei** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 11:57 pm

The 20v injectors (not plugs) should be pale-orange colour.
Check if there are gorund wires bolted on to chassis next to ECU, coming off ECU loom (~4 brown wires all crimped to 1 bolt terminal).

by **matt9ball** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:03 am

ok and know im putting a new battery in tomorow.oh sorry i cant remember the colour will check in morning and if the ecu is earthed to the chassis?anything else i should check??

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