tensioner spring

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tensioner spring

Postby bluemaumau » Sat May 06, 2006 11:47 am

how often do these go?

i just put a new tensioner on if that makes any diff.

as i just did my cambelt and its tight but you can still deflect it quite alot.

will post a pic of sitting and deflected soon. for comparison

cheers will
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Re: tensioner spring

Postby Crucible » Sat May 06, 2006 11:57 am

bluemaumau wrote:how often do these go?

i just put a new tensioner on if that makes any diff.

as i just did my cambelt and its tight but you can still deflect it quite alot.

will post a pic of sitting and deflected soon. for comparison

cheers will


With the belt on and marks lined up you want the belt tight on the drive side and all the slack on the tensioner side before unloading it. It pays to rotate the crank twice and double check the marks are lined up as minor slack on the drive side may cause the crank to turn a little before driving the cam and putting it out a tooth. You only need to replace hydraulic tensioners not springs unless they are damaged or stretched.

The spring tension itself usually loads the belt to the correct tension, theres no need to pry the tensioner idler to load it up further.

tnt
Last edited by Crucible on Sat May 06, 2006 12:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby bluemaumau » Sat May 06, 2006 12:02 pm

yea its sweet ive rotated it twice and its a good
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Postby bluemaumau » Sat May 06, 2006 12:05 pm

pics
at the moment:
Image
Image



deflected:
Image
Image



what do you think?

or am i just sketchin out? :oops:

will
4AGTE AE101 COROLLA - 90%

Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

looking for enkei RP01 center caps (white)
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Postby Crucible » Sat May 06, 2006 12:22 pm

Sorta hard to make out cause I dont know how hard yah pushin :lol:

With the tensioner locking bolt undone, get someone to hold the crank and load the r/s cam (l/s in pic) anticlockwise to pull any slack over to the tensioner side to take up, then lock it.

tnt
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Postby bluemaumau » Sat May 06, 2006 12:28 pm

i was about to break my thumb.

cheers
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Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

looking for enkei RP01 center caps (white)
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Postby ZE WAGON » Sat May 06, 2006 8:23 pm

hey mate ive just joined up, im doin the same conversion as yours i think.
4agze into a ae101 96 corolla wagon, just got exhaust on last week, yet to get the timn light on it an get it idleing well, but shes all go!! stoked!!
how you goin with yours?..
home is where you make it!
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Postby sergei » Sat May 06, 2006 9:22 pm

there is a trick to do it properly:
before installing cam belt install tensioner with spring, extend tensioner as far as possible, tigthen temporary tensioner's bolt, set the marks, install cam belt
(remeber you cannot make mistake by half of tooth, if you set 1 thooth wrong you will be able to see it), after double checking all the marks release the bolt on the tensioner, the tensioner should take up some slack, rotate crank shaft by 10-15 degrees (1-2 teeth), tighten the tensioner, rotate crank shaft almost 2 full turns, recheck the marks. Double check the marks again.
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Postby bluemaumau » Sun May 07, 2006 1:18 am

viewtopic.php?t=44894
^^^^^^
:"ze wagon"

i reckon the deflection in those pics is around 5mm.

everythings lined up sweet i just wanna know how tight it needs to be
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Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

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Postby kingcorolla » Mon May 08, 2006 10:01 pm

Meh looks too loose in the pic, but you can also do to tight.

Ive often found the spring tension alone is not enough to nip it up so ill pry the tensioner till im satisfyed. Rotate once and check deflection on the longest side

Just have to go by feel and trust yourself. Firm but not tight. If your engine crys at you when you start it its too tight. Falls off? too loose
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Postby sergei » Mon May 08, 2006 10:08 pm

don't pry the tensioner, I've learned that lesson hard way, first of all the tensioner will start to wine on about 1200rpm, if you car sees a lot high rpm (especially over 8k) the tensioner/cambelt will start overheat/sieze, I had mine come loose from locater while still bolted to the pump, the metal locater jumped out and left 5mm round holes every 1cm on camblet, melted through cambelt cover, the cover itself was warped arround the tensioner area. If you do it the way I described in my previous post you will not have problems with loose cambelt...
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Postby bluemaumau » Mon May 08, 2006 10:33 pm

yea ive done it your way sergei, same as manual.

however as you can see in the pics it just looks loose.

hmm. ill just start teh car without the top cover and see how it looks.

btw: will it tighten or loosen over time ?
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Where the $&#$% is that oil leak coming from /club

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Postby kingcorolla » Mon May 08, 2006 10:52 pm

it will loosen over time.

'prying the tensioner' doesnt mean reaming it right tight to the point of snappage.

there is a fine line between too tight and too loose as i have found. After a few cambelts you get the feel of it. I too have had pulleys whine at me and it sux

but if you feel the belts too loose, tighten it.
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