Remote Oil Filter Cavitation

[Crucible]

I done a turbo conversion recently and remotely mounted the oil filter as clearance was an issue. Im getting a noticeably load droan from the lines and remote housing once its up to operating temperature. I know this can be quitened down by mounting the housing on rubber mounts to prevent it transferring through the body, but what Im concered about is as to why its making this noise. Im worried because I know this noise mainly comes from air in the lines (Cavitation). Im going to call Enzed tomorrow and see what they think but thought Id ask to see if anyone has come across this before and/ or found a solution. The housings are mr gasket. Ill double check on the line diameter and post up.

Cheers

[matt dunn]

Are you sure you have the oil lines around the right way,
and are not trying to flow oil through the filter the wrong way around?

Matt

[Crucible]

I mocked it up roughy initially to get everything "set up". Both housings are marked in/out etc, but Ill double check that tomorrow, as I did take off a second time to Mill the housing and was in a bit of a rush , jeez Id be stoked if thats all it is

cheers

[no_8wire]

could you just add a bleed valve? on the in side just by the filter?

[trdfxgt]

iv just done the same thing there is no vibration or nosie or anything check those hoses to make sure they are plumed up correct

[Bazda]

yep make sure your flowing through the filter the right way, so oil flows into the outside of the filter and comes out the middle back into the engine (centre hole on the block).

[Crucible]

I just checked and double checked and I did have the lines plumbed up correctly, I brought small rubber mounts and mounted the remote housing to the body through them and the noise is gone, still a little concerned but suppose not too much else I can do about it. Its getting oil pressure and good flow up the top of the motor. With it running and using a stethoscope against the lines its really load but without the stethoscope you cant even tell as the mounts have isolated all the noise . I had it mounted straight to the l/s chassis rail, maybe the box section of the rail was amplifing the noise???? Anyways Ill see how it goes

cheers guys for the help

[peas]

Im just about to do this too... where is the best place for it? I mean access would be a dream at oil change but is the height important as well? Also where woudl be the best place to plumb an oil cooler into a 4A-GTE or am I wasting my time.

[Crucible]

Im just about to do this too... where is the best place for it? I mean access would be a dream at oil change but is the height important as well? Also where woudl be the best place to plumb an oil cooler into a 4A-GTE or am I wasting my time.

As suggested above I mounted mine to the l/s rail. You can plumb coolers in between the remote housing and block plate. My brother runs an hks remote kit/cooler on his GTZ and it takes a while to get oil pressure in the mornings as the pump has more area to prime up, I didnt use one because of this Some other kits may use check valves to avoid this, but just something to be aware of.....

[sergei]

I've acutally wired a relay in such way that it does not fire untill the oil light goes off. I takes about 10 seconds of starting to get it going, for me it is not a problem because I have Optima spiral cell (1000CA)...

[peas]

Is it worth using an antidrain back oil filter then? The mount that I have got fits plenty of filters and Im sure that I cna find one in the catalogue at work that will have an antidrain valve on it.

[Crucible]

Is it worth using an antidrain back oil filter then? The mount that I have got fits plenty of filters and Im sure that I cna find one in the catalogue at work that will have an antidrain valve on it.

I get oil pressure instant without a cooler, The oil filters are usually mounted upside down on remote housings so the oil doesnt actually drain back but just sits in the filter. I think the lines/cooler is where the problem is. I mounted the housing slightly lower than the main gallery on mine so the oil would have to climb to drain back.

[matt dunn]

Have you actually though about oil level?

They are meant to have about 3 1/2 litres in the engine,
of which say 1/2 at anytime in in the sump and 1/2 is around the engine.

That leaves 1.75 litres in the sump. If your lines take 1 litre to fill you only have .75 in the sump?

Not always an issue but can be.

Run the car till the oil is warm, stop it and check the level straight away before iot all drains out of the head and see where the level is.

[Crucible]

Have you actually though about oil level?

They are meant to have about 3 1/2 litres in the engine,
of which say 1/2 at anytime in in the sump and 1/2 is around the engine.

That leaves 1.75 litres in the sump. If your lines take 1 litre to fill you only have .75 in the sump?

Not always an issue but can be.

Run the car till the oil is warm, stop it and check the level straight away before iot all drains out of the head and see where the level is.

Wow, good thinking Matt!.

I never thought about it like that!!!!, I did notice that the droaning was more noticeable when warm, maybe this is because the pickup is only fully submerged on start up!. Ill check that out!!!!!

thanks heaps!