Timing problem? 4agte

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Timing problem? 4agte

Postby dickhead » Wed Oct 25, 2006 12:18 am

Anyone had any probs before with the ecu not advancing the timing? I have a 4agze i have just finished a turbo conversion on, has a new knock sensor, has temp sensors to the ecu, and has a map sensor, and its set to the std 10 degrees ignition timing. Cam timing is set right (comp on 1st cyl at tdc), but its just gutless. Its reading 10 pound on the boost gauge at about 3000-3500 rpm, but doesn't pull at all. I am guessing its a timing problem, as we were playing with it the other night without the timing light and had it running better for a bit, but set it back to std because i thought thats a bit dodgy..
Any ideas???
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Postby shazeal » Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:05 am

Dunno if its the same problem im having, but the timing when set to 5deg is perfect (what it was when i got the car) running on 95/98, but when I set it to 10deg it looses power and starts to missfire. Cams are set right afaik, possible the crank angle sensor can be out a tooth same as a dizzy on the NA cars? Or even possible for the sensor itself to have problems? Sorry im in the same boat as you, not much help :oops:
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Postby dickhead » Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:41 am

haha wicked, i'll give you a race! haha yeah it sucks ay. Constantly pulling shit apart only to find its all sweet.
I'll go check the c/angle sensor. Wondering if the map sensor could be pooed?
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Postby dickhead » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:03 am

Man. just went out in high spirits to have a look at the crank angle sensor... looks like the turbos comin off to get the fken thing out..... gaaaaaay....
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Postby Caveman » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:15 am

This is sometimes caused by the knock sensor if...

bad earth
not wired correctly to ecu
broken sensor

it will go full retard after 1/4 throttle (maybe less) and the check engine light will come on

have a look at the diagnostics and let us know what thats saying
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Postby dickhead » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:17 am

Sorry bro I have no idea how the diagnostics works. The knock sensor had that one light green wire running to it. I'll trace it to the ecu.
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Postby Caveman » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:25 am

yea just use continuity on the multimeter to find common wires

diagnostics works by bridging terminals te1 and e1 on the diagnostics plugs, you need to do this when you set the timing as well... this might be causing problems if you have high or low idle.

search on the forum theres a lot of information

oh here you go

http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=35814

hope it helps
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Postby dickhead » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:31 am

Ahh sweet, so how do you get the codes? Numbers? Yeah i bridged t1 and e1 to set timing, apologies for not understanding- i knew nothing about anything with an ecu before starting this conversion, only thing i'd ever touched was a k-series.... cheers for the help ay
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Postby Caveman » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:33 am

yep all good

you bridge te1 and e1 and the check engine light will flash

it will go

long pause

flash flash

short pause

flash flash flash

that means error 23 (two flashes followed by 3 flashes)

note there can be more then one error, just watch it for a while and you'll pick up the pattern 8)
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Postby dickhead » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:56 am

Ahhh i see. Is there an alternate output wire for the check engine light? Like off the diagnostic connector? I am not running the dash, i have an evo dash... in a starlet... long story... Anyhow, is there an alternate wire for a feed/earth signal that could be hooked up to an led/ bulb out of the diagnostic connector? Or i'll have to hook something up to the wire off the ecu. In that case do you know if the check engine light signal off the ecu is and earthing switch or a positive feed? Cheers!
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Postby Chickenman » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:05 am

There should be a wire specifically for that purpose straight out of the ecu.
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Postby dickhead » Wed Oct 25, 2006 10:06 am

Sweet do you know if its an earth signal or positive?
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Postby shazeal » Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:02 am

If its anything like mine you will just get constant flashes, indicating the ECU thinks everything is fine, just make sure there arent any sledge hammers close to hand when this happens :evil:
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:42 am

dickhead wrote:Sweet do you know if its an earth signal or positive?


im in the same boat as you - 4age in a ke35 so ofcourse no engine check light! i just bridged te1 and e1 then connected my multimeter to the "check light output" pin of my ECU, then with the multimeter on the voltage option you can see the voltage pulsing out of the pin. hope this makes sense :lol:

just have a search on the net for 4age diagrnostics, theres heaps of info about them and how to read them etc.
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Postby dickhead » Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:43 am

cheers bro--
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Postby Caveman » Wed Oct 25, 2006 1:22 pm

the ecu triggers earth

connect positive to blub and other side to ecu

saw the evo dash in the turbo 4age thread, very original :!:

Evo should have check engine light?

Either way let us know what codes it give

Dont worry, ecus are pretty scary at first but once they go they run mint 8)
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Postby dickhead » Wed Oct 25, 2006 2:01 pm

Yeah, i wired all the other shit up but never got round to the check engine light. its all in there now haha aint it aint coming back out!! Yeah i fried my ecu trying to wire engine up myself... many many thanks to matt dunn for fixing it for me, i saw smoke coming out of it and realised i'd put power to the wrong wire... hahah i'll have a look at it tonight, let you know whats it says. Off to uni for an exam now, just for fun...
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Postby dickhead » Wed Oct 25, 2006 6:50 pm

hahah diagnostics...
Apparrently:

24 -Intake air temp
31 -Air Flow meter?? (could this also be map sensor?)
41 -TPS
52 -Knock Sensor

That is awesome.

24: Is intake temp a major? i haven't got that one, wouldnt have a clue what the plug looks like??

31: My car doesn't have an AFM its map sensored.

41: TPS- have tried to set this many a time. Really have no idea what the spacings are ment to be between?

52: KNOCK SENSOR - its brand new and it cost me a shitload, guessing this is the problem though. Will check it out and re run the wire from the ecu now.

Quite a smart little silver box huh.

So, what are the spacings between on the tps that you set? Matt explained it to me the other day and gave me the numbers, but i dont quite get what you put feeler blades between???
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Postby Lloyd » Wed Oct 25, 2006 7:00 pm

viewtopic.php?t=29042

Feeler gauge goes in the throttle stop




Check your MAP sensor is getting 5V, a good earth and it putting out around 1V at idle on the signal wire. Should increase if you give it a rev
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:25 pm

yeah setting the TPS is easy, just need a multimeter, a screwdriver and those specs. feeler gauges arent totally necesary, i set mine without them though it would pay to use them if youve got them.

as for the AFM code on a MAP'd engine; are you sure you're looking at the correct codes for the type of ecu/engine you've got? the codes you've found obviously apply to a AFM'ed engine, so you want the ones for the map sensored engine.
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