Installing arp rod bolts into 4agze

[IH8TEC]

Right, here's my dilemma.

went to install the ARP rodbolts yesterday. with head on, tried to take old ones out, and they just wouldn't budge. so basically i'm taking the head off to take the pistons and rods out to change the rod bolts.

now mechanic is saying i may need to hone out the rods, which would also mean new bearings i'm guessing, as the arp ones are torqued more than the std 4agze ones.

has anyone else been through this and had the hassle as mentioned above? or was it a straight swap for you.

thanks
brendon

[Mr Revhead]

why does he say hone the rods? did you run a bearing?

if you do that then yes you will need new bearings

otherwise reassemble and check clearanaces, as you should always do

[IH8TEC]

well thats what i thought warrick, i dont see how the clearances will change that much, maybe slightly.

and nope, no run bearings at least taking the head off to get them will give me a good chance to inspect the motor and how it's held up so far before i ram more boost through it

[ChaosAD]

I think there is a tiny bit of machining to do to get them to fit, but dont quote me on it.

I would have thought the bearings should be replaced.

[Mr Revhead]

if they are the right ones, there should be no machining needed.

some places sell chev ones as 4age ones.... they need maching on some blocks

[IH8TEC]

I think there is a tiny bit of machining to do to get them to fit, but dont quote me on it.

I would have thought the bearings should be replaced.

why they perfectly fine and only done about 7,000kms

[ChaosAD]

May have been the block that needed machining. I thought the bearings would need replacing beacuse of the different torque settings being used.


http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech_pages/Connecting%20ROD.html

[CAMB01]

Ive used ARP rod bolts on my 4ages and 4agze before. Was just a straight swap.
Although when i replaced them i was rebuilding the motors.
But yeah straight swap no machining, just used a press to press them in.

[IH8TEC]

cher,

[matt dunn]

May have been the block that needed machining. I thought the bearings would need replacing beacuse of the different torque settings being used.

Why?

the con rod and con rod cap are not going to squish together any further no matter how tight you do them.

the difference in torque spec's is the difference in the stretch of the rod bolts.

[IH8TEC]

so in theory it should be a straight swap over matt? but off coarse still check clearances.

[Bazda]

Ive used ARP rod bolts on my 4ages and 4agze before. Was just a straight swap.
Although when i replaced them i was rebuilding the motors.
But yeah straight swap no machining, just used a press to press them in.

sometimes when you do this, it can slighty put the cap out, ever so slightly and will wear the bearing faster.
Better to check the roundness of the hole first and clearances.

[Crucible]

why even bother with arp bolts?

are stock gze ones known to fail? am I missing something here lol?

[IH8TEC]

i'm planning on running 25psi to 8000rpm. bit of a safety measure i guess, std ones have been fine with running 20psi.

[Mr Revhead]

stock ones have been known to let go after reusing.
also they are the weakest link down below. unless your using blacktop rods!

[Crucible]

It doesnt give me much piece of mind knowing that ae101's have the smallest rods

oh well give it heaps and see what happens aye

[Mr Revhead]

no, ae111s do
ae101s have very strong rods

[Bazda]

no, ae111s do
ae101s have very strong rods

but still not as big as early gze's

[Mr Revhead]

nope not as big.

but more than up 2 99.99% of applications!

[Crucible]

no, ae111s do
ae101s have very strong rods

I meant as in smallport vs bigport gze.