effects of shims not set right?

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effects of shims not set right?

Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Sat Jun 23, 2007 10:03 pm

someone was listening to my 4age bluetop running today and reckoned it "sounded like a diesel" and my shims are probably way out. I've never really noticed it, it just rattles a bit!! :lol:

I don't know if its related, i've just noticed it more since driving my other 4age, but its running like a sack of **** and has no "get up and go" at all.
my other 4age is a redtop bigport, so effectively the same engine as bluetop from what I understand, but the power difference between the two is huge.

so, will shims which aren't set right cause it to lose a heap of power?
the engine will start, idle and rev really nicely, just under load it has no power.

it has also started fouling the plugs just recently (like in the last month). this wouldn't be anything to do with the shims would it? and before you say thats probably why it has no grunt - its never really had a heap of grunt like a 4age should, but its only just started fouling the plugs...

thanks.
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Sat Jun 23, 2007 10:32 pm

Yep, if your shims are too far out (too thin) you wont be getting full valve lift which will cost you power. It also means your cams are giving the shims and buckets a good old pounding. (get ur mind outta the gutter you dirty boy!) This isn't exactly good for them.

But since the 4AGE is a not a hydraulic lifter or rocker type engine these shouldn't really need adjusting. The only way they have changed from when the head was assembled is thru things wearing so if it was assembled right in the first place then its probably about time to reco the head :)

If they are too thick the valves wont close properly
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:03 pm

as far as I know the head is standard, but it may have been pulled apart and put back together at some point. also, when it was put in my car there wasn't really any "maintenance" done on it to check it was all sweet. It was put in, it started, ran nicely, so all good! Never gave it another thought until now. Could easily be worn!

Is there a "simple" recond I could get done on it as I will be pulling the engine out soon, or selling the car probably. or is it easy enough for me to check if its all setup OK myself? otherwise roughly what would it cost for me to take the car to an engine reconditioner to get it checked? I assume they could do it on the car.

if it is worn like you say, what sort of extent would the power loss be? as this car is seriously gutless compared to the redtop. the redtop actually pushes you back in the seat, but the bluetop hardly does that at all.
also if i'm not getting full valve lift, is it likely to effect fueling? as in foul the plugs?
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:29 pm

If it is wear then chances are the rings and valve seats are also worn. ie the whole motor is getting a little tired.
Which considering it is blue top is not unlikely :)

Shims on the 16v heads are shim over bucket IIRC which is a lot easier than Shim under bucket (20v) to do the shims on. its not hard, just time consuming and you'll need shims of the right sizes to swap in.
Just need feeler gauges, socket set pen and paper and a set of decent verniers to measure it up, then order correct shims. install, check clearances and off you go.

Up to you to decide whether it is worth doing a full reco on. If you are about to do a motor swap i don't really see the point.
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Postby matt dunn » Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:29 pm

It would pay to check them if it's been apart.

A freind of mine that know a little about engine's but not enough,
presumed all shims are the same as just put them all in a container and then just put them back in randomly when he re-assembled the engine.
It was a CA18DET i think but same deal as shims on 4age.

Also if it's down on power remonve the front crankshaft pulley and inspect the keyway on the cambelt drive sprocket on the crank.

Matt
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:35 pm

matt dunn wrote:A freind of mine that know a little about engine's but not enough


Heh, i think everyone has a few of those :)
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:43 pm

Grrrrrrr! wrote:If it is wear then chances are the rings and valve seats are also worn. ie the whole motor is getting a little tired.
Which considering it is blue top is not unlikely :)


forgot to say, i have checked the compression a few times while i've had the engine and it is actually pretty good on all 4. can't remember exactly what, but it definitely wasn't anything bad. obviously its not the best way to check, but it doesn't go through heaps of oil or anything so my guess is the rings are OK(ish).

I definitely won't bother pulling the engine apart to do rings / bearings etc, will check the shims out though.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Sun Jun 24, 2007 1:02 pm

matt dunn wrote:Also if it's down on power remonve the front crankshaft pulley and inspect the keyway on the cambelt drive sprocket on the crank.


is that to check if the keyway is worn and putting the timing out? if so, I'm onto my 3rd crank pulley now because of that - pretty sure it's not that this time.

where would I get new shims from? repco or supercheap, do they normally carry them in stock? or would I need to go to toyota?

thanks.
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Postby ChaosAD » Sun Jun 24, 2007 1:13 pm

Toyota. Hit up revhead. Most are in stock, but some are ex japan.
If you cant wait 3 weeks for them to come into the country you could get some machined down like I did.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Sun Jun 24, 2007 4:49 pm

well ive checked all the clearances and these are the results. the green numbers are ones which are within specs. would the other 4 be any cause for concern?

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Postby tex » Sun Jun 24, 2007 5:13 pm

You can also get shims from a bike shop. Same shims as used in yamaha motors (wonder why? :) ) and about half the price.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Jun 24, 2007 6:59 pm

matt dunn wrote:It would pay to check them if it's been apart.

A freind of mine that know a little about engine's but not enough,
presumed all shims are the same as just put them all in a container and then just put them back in randomly when he re-assembled the engine.
It was a CA18DET i think but same deal as shims on 4age.

Also if it's down on power remonve the front crankshaft pulley and inspect the keyway on the cambelt drive sprocket on the crank.

Matt


if its who i think it was, it was a za18. even mnore tractor sounding than a 3sgte!!
Being the subject of E-whinges since 2004 8)

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Postby matt dunn » Sun Jun 24, 2007 7:34 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:
if its who i think it was, it was a za18. even mnore tractor sounding than a 3sgte!!


Yes was him but was his CA18DET bluebird 4wd.
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Postby bluemaumau » Sun Jun 24, 2007 8:04 pm

if that was my engine id replace them
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