3SGTE not starting

[Boosted_162]

Well i finally completed putting my new engine in, fixed all the engine leaks. Well the car started yesterday, but i could only run for a few seconds as it was leaking oil bad. So i fixed leaks, and now it cranks, and sounds like it fires but doesnt. Only thing different to yesterday is intake/afm. My intake is cracking, could a small leak cause this? Or a broken AFM?

The other wierd thing, that could possibly be related is, when i turn my key on, i dont get all the warning lights, only the battery and door. No CEL or oil pressure etc. They didnt work when it started yesterday either. ECU looks fine and doesnt smell of burning. Bridging E1 and TE1 does nothing.

Car is getting jumpstarted btw, wouldnt imagine this has something to do with it?

Cheers for your help

[sergei]

Have you connected all grounds back on (on the head)?
also check the fuses.

[Boosted_162]

Im pretty sure grounds are fine, havent touched them since it started the first time. Ill check the fuses

[sergei]

The other wierd thing, that could possibly be related is, when i turn my key on, i dont get all the warning lights, only the battery and door. No CEL or oil pressure etc. They didnt work when it started yesterday either. ECU looks fine and doesnt smell of burning. Bridging E1 and TE1 does nothing.

Car is getting jumpstarted btw, wouldnt imagine this has something to do with it?

Cheers for your help

Defenetly no ground (or power) issue.

[Boosted_162]

I checked the fuses, and i realised my mate stole my 'gauge' fuse [/blonde]

Lights work now, brings up error code 52 (isnt that knock sensor? It isnt connected at the moment anyway). Got the car started as well, which is wierd.

Now it seems my only problem is, the car will stall if you take your foot off the gas (it hasnt moved yet btw). Im assuming its a vaccum leak? I remember my PS vaccum hose isnt connected (i broke the connector off the pump! doh). Can this be the problem? Can i just block it off? Also the electrical connectors to the speedo and TVIS arent connected, as well as the knock sensors. Any idle problems caused by them?

Cheers

[sergei]

With Knock sensor not connected and other bits it will put it in limp mode = no advance, and richer than usual this can lead to poor idle on cold.
Have you removed your injectors? If so check if rubber grommets are not desintegrated (sucking air pass it) if you have one or two doing that it will idle like subaru. The vacuum leaks will aslo cause poor idle.

[Boosted_162]

Injectors stayed in fuel rail, i used the manifold from the old engine. I wish it did sound like a subaru idling, that would mean it does idle! I have to keep it at about 1500rpm to not stall, as soon as i take off the gas it will cut out.

Im so close yet so far!

[groupagt4]

wont be the ps mines been disconected for ages now and it doesnt really effect idel just when you got it on full lock

[Boosted_162]

Did you block yours off tho? I dont mind it being disconnected, just as long as is doesnt cause a vacuum leak.

[jondee86]

Put your finger over the end of the hose while the engine is running.
If it sucks like a..... baby on a nipple, then you have a vacuum leak

Cheers... jondee86

[rollaholic]

does it idle by itself once it warms up?

[Boosted_162]

Havent left it running that long, currently doesnt have a radiator. Gunna put it all in tomorrow and try drive it and see what happens, and let it warm up.

[Grrrrrrr!]

These use a flap type AFM don't they?

If so that vacuum leak is probably the cause of the stalling. The fuel pump circuit goes via the AFM so that if the engine stalls the fuel pump is cut. It relies on a small amount of airflow at idle going thru the AFM to hold the flap open enough to complete the circuit. If the air is coming in thru a leak after the AFM then the circuit wont be complete and the fuel pump will stop.

You can test if this is the problem by bridging the fuel pump circuit in the diagnostic connector so the fuel pump stays on. Cant remember exactly which pins to connect. Search should find it.

[Boosted_162]

Cheers, ill try find that and see if it works. Otherwise i might just borrow my mates intake, he made his own so it doesnt leak.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Google did its magic and spat out:

The fuel pump can be forced to operate by placing a jumper in the engine diagnostics connector between FP and +B terminals

[Boosted_162]

Tried that, could smell fuel so was working, but did the exact same thing. Hard to start, and will just stall with no throttle.

[Malcolm]

These use a flap type AFM don't they?

If so that vacuum leak is probably the cause of the stalling. The fuel pump circuit goes via the AFM so that if the engine stalls the fuel pump is cut. It relies on a small amount of airflow at idle going thru the AFM to hold the flap open enough to complete the circuit. If the air is coming in thru a leak after the AFM then the circuit wont be complete and the fuel pump will stop.

Close but not quite. ECU turns on the fuel pump on an st185, not the AFM, but if you have vacuum leaks then the AFM wont be opening to the correct angle, so the ECU wont be giving it enough fuel.

Definitely fix all your vacuum leaks, this should sort it.

[Boosted_162]

Well, ive been working on it a bit the last 2 days..

Found the TB was a little loose and the cold start banjo bolt on the fuel rail was a little loose. Fixed them, and now the car sounds better, but its not completely right. It does actually idle, but its so low it eventually stalls. Could this be in limp mode? I still havent connected knock sensor. I tried driving up the driveway, and the car is very gutless and hard to drive.

Now i found another leak (i think). On the TVIS plate, theres from left to right, a blue canister, a smaller silver canister then the TVIS valve etc. Now, the small silver canister, it has an electrical connection (greeny plug) and 2 vacuum lines. One comes out the end, the other out the bottom. The end one goes to a metal line from the intake manifold, where does the bottom line come from? I cant find it, and i suspect this could be the leak...

Ill get pics tomorrow if need be, its raining too hard now

[Boosted_162]

[sergei]

this is factory boost solenoid. it bleeds boost to atmosphere (bottom bit not connected to anyhting).