My new car (cert and LEM questions)

[samlloyd]

Hi all,

I picked up the 180sx from orginalhookup that was posted in buy/sell recently, and have a few questions which arnt too nissan specific


First off, its rego is on hold, no cert, no wof. I will be registering it A class i think it is so i can drive it to place of repair and nowhere else

Its had a change from the ca18det to a Rb30det.

Questions regarding certing:

* The Roll Cage
It has a bolt in roll cage, which i know are frowned apon. Ive searched and looked on the lvvt website but i couldnt find out what i needed to do to get it through a cert. Would unbolting the front pillar bars to leave a half cage in it be legal? Just need help finding the documentation regarding this.

* Motor and Drivetrain

Is there anything i can check that it would need before i take it to get certified (because it will be certified in a different town). Whats the story with the drive shaft loop? What is this and do i need it?

* Suspension and brakes
It has adjustable suspension and skyline brakes on it. Seems to handle and stop fine so i dont think there is anything i need to check


Thats basically it for the cert questions. I just need a bit of a checklist that i can do before i take it in.



Performance questions:

Ill try and sort a link computer out this week because its running a rb20det computer, which is pretty much only good for getting it from a to b.
Any advantage over plug in vs getting an adpaterlink?
I wouldn't mind getting the link displaylink as well. Does anyone have experience with this. Do they provide only a display or adjustment?

I think it needs bigger injectors in it aswell because these seem to be the bottleneck in the fuel. How do i work out what cc's injectors i should get. I think they are top mount. Is the only difference between high impedance and low impedance relative to the stock ecu. Can a link power bother hi ohm and low ohm fine? What would be better (i assume low?)

When you buy aftermarket injectors do they come with the plug? I can wire them up to the stock loom no worries, how do they fasten into the manifold?

Thats all...for now.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Questions regarding certing:

* The Roll Cage
It has a bolt in roll cage, which i know are frowned apon. Ive searched and looked on the lvvt website but i couldnt find out what i needed to do to get it through a cert. Would unbolting the front pillar bars to leave a half cage in it be legal? Just need help finding the documentation regarding this.

From http://www.landtransport.govt.nz/certif ... -07-v3.pdf

Table 7-7-1. Modifi cations that do not require LVV certifi cation
Fitting of or modifi cation to: LVV certifi cation is not required provided that:

Roll-bar or roll-cage structures (roll
protection or cosmetic)
• each seating position is fitted with an effective head restraint, and
• the bars are positioned:
– behind, following a plane extending upward, parallel to the back of the backrest on the
rear-most seat, and
– in such a way that the head-restraint would provide protection from head contact with
any bar section during a crash.


If it fails to pass under the above criteria you would then require a Motorsport authority card, which from previous discussions on here you are unlikely to get with a bolt in cage.

Either way the back seats have to come out.

[samlloyd]

Back seats and belts have been removed allready. Where on the cert plate would it mention the cage? I may aswell put some padding on the cage above the seats to make the certifier a bit happy

[Grrrrrrr!]

If it meets the above criteria it doesn't need certing so wont be mentioned.

[Dell'Orto]

There is a link to the LVVTA stuff in the FAQ, and from what I recall any non factory motor transplant requires a driveshaft loop.

[samlloyd]

Link g3 going in this week or next, will post dyno results

[THA SHZ]

If the car hasnt been registered as an a class vehicle u wont be able to do it anymore they no longer do a class , u cant rego it if it aint warrented either

[samlloyd]

So which way around is it.

The rego is on hold. No cert, no wof.


I obviously get cert first. Then what?

[Distrb]

I obviously get cert first. Then what?

then wof,

then reg

[d1 mule]

get rid if the bolt in cage, they are a waste of time.

the driveshaft loop has to be minumum 3mm steel, bolt to the car and completely around the D d-shaft (obvoiusly not touching) im fairly sure need one at every universal joint, or at least the middle one.

and IMO link is a waste on RB, just get the ecu chipped real time , basically the same as a link then, my mate down in chch does the EXPO D chips and the Performance Angels guy in dunnas does real time too im pretty sure, so surely someone in the big smoke does them

Edit, just noticed your in rotorua id be hitting RIPS up

[strx7]

a bolt in cage can be to MNZ spec if its been done the correct way

[the fallen303]

any info on the no more A class?? sounds a bit wierd that they'd drop it. does that mean there's only normal registration, or you have to trailer the vehicle to and from the workshops now?

[THA SHZ]

any info on the no more A class?? sounds a bit wierd that they'd drop it. does that mean there's only normal registration, or you have to trailer the vehicle to and from the workshops now?

they dropped it cause too many people were registering their car as this and had no intention of using it just for racing as far as im aware , there is another class you can get it labeled as , but i think you have to prove its a racecar now

[touge rolla]

the driveshaft loop has to be minumum 3mm steel, bolt to the car and completely around the D d-shaft (obvoiusly not touching) im fairly sure need one at every universal joint, or at least the middle one.

2 Piece driveshaft requires two hoops, 1 piece only needs 1. Anywhere that does that sort of fabricating would have certainly done plenty before

[d1 mule]

the driveshaft loop has to be minumum 3mm steel, bolt to the car and completely around the D d-shaft (obvoiusly not touching) im fairly sure need one at every universal joint, or at least the middle one.

2 Piece driveshaft requires two hoops, 1 piece only needs 1. Anywhere that does that sort of fabricating would have certainly done plenty before

just go to a metal place and get 2 2"X12" strips of 3mm steel, drill 10mm holes on the ends, bend in a half circle shape wilt tabs at each end, bolt to car, done easy peasy

[samlloyd]

From what ive seen, my car has a 2peice, and the hanger bearing type loop in the middle uj, where is the other loop supposed to be?