How do I remove the "Crankshaft timing pulley"?

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How do I remove the "Crankshaft timing pulley"?

Postby stalker » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:23 pm

Trying to get the crankshaft out of my 20v block, and just wondering how do we remove the timing pulley off the shaft??

We brought a puller but the pulley itself is to close to the block to get the 2 teeth of the puller arund it....is there any other way???

Does this make sence on what im asking??
:lol:
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Postby rollaholic » Mon Apr 21, 2008 7:53 pm

i know what you are saying stalker - and they are supposed to just slide off.

but, i will say i tried to get one off a friends 20v a while back and ended up giving up!

the crank sprocket shouldnt stop you from removing the crank though? just makes changing the seal interesting, which is what i was trying to do :D
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Postby stalker » Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:19 pm

Wicked...when I read it I wonderd if I was making any sence :lol:

I just found a manual online for the 20v's too, and it said the same thing on there to just pull and it will slide off. Also said that there is a tiny mark on it that I have to line up otherwise it wont slide.
Didnt think it sounded right so I thought id ask to see if there was anyother way to do it.

Oh well, ill try to "slide" it off :lol:

Thanx heaps for the info
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:23 pm

i've never once been able to "slide" one off...

get an axle puller. the 16v pulleys have threaded holes in them so you can bolt the puller to the pulley and pull the pulley off with the puller.
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Postby Jdawg » Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:41 pm

Better yet get a crankshaft/ harmonic damper puller, sometimes called a ducks foot puller. About $20 worth from any tool shop.
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Postby rollaholic » Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:55 pm

hes talking about the crank sprocket - the part the timing belt runs on - not the crank pulley, which runs the fanbelts.

crank pulley almost never slide off either, but thats a much easier problem to solve.

personally i would take the crank out first, then tap the pulley off with a rubber mallet.
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Apr 21, 2008 9:29 pm

ah yeah I didn't click. try a puller with smaller teeth/arms?? otherwise hammer a wedge in there or something... I got the last one off with a grinder :twisted:
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Postby Distrb » Mon Apr 21, 2008 9:44 pm

have pressed a couple off with a 10 tonne press. (make sure you support the oil pump well or you'll smash the housing)

Have to take the crank out with the oil pumps still attached though

prob also not a great method unless you're rebuilding the engine.
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Postby fxgt race » Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:34 pm

i put a little heat on the sucker an she slides right off with a litte levering,need to put a little tin behind so ya don't burn to much
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Postby matt dunn » Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:55 pm

I have pulled quite a few off,

as long as you lever them carefully and square, they will come off,

you need to lever on both sides at the same time,
so two large flat screwdrivers,
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Postby rollaholic » Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:06 am

Distrb wrote:prob also not a great method unless you're rebuilding the engine.


he is :D
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Postby 1hypo3 » Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:28 am

fxgt race wrote:i put a little heat on the sucker an she slides right off with a litte levering,need to put a little tin behind so ya don't burn to much

im with him on this one,
if it doesnt "slide" off then you need a little heat and carefully lever off evenly but dont pry too hard because they do chip the edge off.
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Postby Rob » Sat Apr 26, 2008 8:30 am

If I were you I'd drill 2 holes in the pulley and tap them to M6. They don't need to be more than 10mm deep. Then bolt a harmonic balancer puller on with a bit of tension and tap the pulley with a brass punch (or some other soft material) also spray crc in front and behind. This way should come off


When you put it back on, clean up with wet and dry then use some copper grease inside the 2 pulleys
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Postby sergei » Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:21 am

I had to grind slots in one once, M6 bolts were too weak, heat did not do anything, so I resorted to destroying it via grinding slots for huge gear puller, and then it would still be very difficult to remove.
These things rust shut, and need to be installed with some anti seize compound.
BTW brand new sprocket is only ~$40.
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Postby stalker » Sat Apr 26, 2008 1:29 pm

I got it off in the end, we gave it to one of the mechanics at the flatties work and he said it took a LOT of heat and a ton of pressure to get it off. Its even slightly warped the cog due to the pressure. (It had rusted itself onto the shaft)

sergei wrote:BTW brand new sprocket is only ~$40.


Im guessing Toyota direct to get one of these?? (anyone know the part number for it) lol
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Postby AE82 FXGT » Sat Apr 26, 2008 2:25 pm

Me and loose_unit just had an episode on one of these, I gave up.
He ended up drilling/grinding/smashing his way to a new one.
We were only changing the seal so crank out was not an option.

In saying that, when I was doing the seal on my GTZ, it just slid off without needing screwdrivers or anything, needless to say I was stoked.
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