Caldina power Window trouble - not happy, need help!!!

[steve74]

hey guys. I have a bit of a novel here, but here go's.

I recently had my DRIVER SIDE window broken on my 1998 GT-T caldina.The glass from the window got stuck in the door lock and i couldnt shut the door. I pulled the inner skin off the door removing the master controls for the power windows in the process. i then drove the car around with the controls sitting in the back seat and the window taped up for about a week until i could get it to the glazier. The window was replaced and the glazier refitted the power window controls but now they dont work right.

The window will go down and stay down but if you flick the auto up button it will travel all the way up then when it hits the fully closed position it returns to a mid position. you have to manually flick it up and stop it just before it reach's the top to get it to stay up.

Now, the story i got from the glazier was that he called into the local toyota dealer and they decided it was a faulty switch. Ive tried all the "resetting the ecu" and "hold down 3 seconds and then up for 3 seconds" methods that ive read on various forums and still have no luck. Even though the window was replaced under insurance my insurance company will not cover the repair costs to the controls unless it can be proved that the broken window has caused it and its not a coincidence. To get it checked by an auto sparky or toyota will cost me.

any suggestions before i invest in another set of controls???

cheers, steve

[Emperor]

I'd say it was replaced a little bit off on the tracks... And so the window goes up a bit higher than it should, which makes the sensor pick it up and drop the window down...

My Skyline did this, turned out had slipped its tracks

[steve74]

hmmm, i see what your getting at. i did notice that if i grab the glass between the palms of my hand there is lateral movement. if i try to lift the glass then the power windows seem to shut down and wont work unless you leave it for a few minutes with the ignition off. I guessed this was some sort of out of alignment protection and decided that it cant be that. but hey im a house sparky not a car sparky.

[matt dunn]

They are tricky, sounds the same as the Altezza one we had trouble with.

They have basically a crank angle sensor built into the motor,
not a limit sw, but a digital signal for postion.

The window motor and window regulator have to be "timed" together when assembled to get it to work right.

How exactly you do this i'm not sure.
Fitting a s/h reg and motor as one piece fixed the problem as a quick fix.

It's not the switch that's faulty, the motor is fine, and the regulator is good too,
just not setup and timed correctly.

[steve74]

ive had that type of thing on gear driven mechanical lift rams that have slipped a cog. it upsets the timing. the sensor picks up that it has travelled too far before the ram actually gets to full extention and shuts the system down. maybe your right, a similar situation. surely the glazier would know that?

[matt dunn]

surely the glazier would know that?

I highly doubt it,
In fact, I doubt even the toyota dealer may know it,
as they didn't down here.

[sergei]

A lot of newer models have that system, they will need to be "reset" to work properly after disassembly.
Some of the cars lose the position info on flat battery.

[steve74]

ok, so how do i "reset" it? is it an electrical thing or a mechanical thing.

[gepsk8]

if passenger window broken what do mean by master controls for the window?
driver switch? or passanagers switch?
one way to try is, get the window all the way down, unplug to switch plug the switch back in after 30seconds, hold button it down position for 5second and then get the window up and do the same. if that doesnt work try the other way round starting with window at top.

[steve74]

OH SHITE - DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW, SORRY

I havn't actually tried unplugging the switch block from the loom but i have disconnected the battery for an hour and done the 3 sec down - 3 seconds up thing.

if you hold it down for more than 3 to 4 sec it tends to cut out on over current.

do you think the controlls have some sort of battery or stored capacitance that keeps a memory. by unplugging it for a long period it has wiped its memory?

might head out with the torch now and try unplugging it for 30 sec.

[steve74]

Nup - no joy

if i put all my weight on it as it raises i cant stop it. but when it hits the top position it drops to half way. that tells me it not any sort of load sensing. I thik its as matt says, a position sensor has been triggered and tells the motor to come back down before its hard up in the closed position. i think its a timing thing on the mechanical side of things.

unless anyone has a sure fire fix im spending easter with my car door in bits!!

[steve74]

Well its fixed - sort of.

i pulled the complete assembly out, removed the motor and tried fitting the motor back a tooth out and perfect - worked good as gold , seems to sound like its labouring a bit in the last 10mm or so but it worked fine.

BUTT - i then noticed that i hadnt fitted all 6 mounting bolts and the regulator assembly was skewed to the right and the bolt holes would not match up. I loosend off all the bolts, fitted all 6 and the problem was back. if i remove those 2 bolts again and skew the motor to the right it works fine??

so its fixed but only has 4 mounting bolts.