New Car- I Have some questions

[MR2BOY23]

As some of you may know, I purchased a new car recently the black 1992 SW20 GTS that was on trademe. I picked it up on Tuesday and had an awesome drive back from Taupo

So far I've put in a new Sony mp3 headunit and 6" Speakers in the front. Also had to give it a really thorough clean as the previous owner lived out in the country and there was just dirt and giant spiders everywhere

So I have a few questions which I hope everyone could help me answer

-Currently the boost pressure is 7psi. I've read on www.mrcontrols.com that this can be safely increased to 14 or 15psi. What do you guys think ? I've removed the temperature sensor thing so the intercooler fan is always on and just serviced the car so would 14 or 15 psi be safe? And would I need to change anything else to support that boost pressure i.e colder spark plugs, with a smaller gap?

- Upgrading of the intercooler- I've heard a few different ideas. Upgrading the fans, aftermarket side mount (which seem quite expensive) and I've seen a few people who put the intercooler in the boot which looks like the best option to me?

- And thirdly, I've talked to a few people about upgrading the turbo. Which would be the best option? Changing to a CT20B? Or upgrading the ct26 ?
Because my ultimate goal would be to see even boost through the rev range, as It currently feels like the boost drops after 5000rpm

Sorry about the long post, but I have so many questions. I do hours of research on all this stuff, but the most useful information I find is what people offer on this forum which is why im posting up here

Thanks in advance

[Dell'Orto]

You'll want to run it up on the dyno to check the AFR's, 14psi might be safe on one MR2 but not on another...but provided everything is kosher, then 14psi will be fine.
There was a Greddy side mount i/c on TM not that long ago quite cheap, that would be the best option for now...it really does depend on what sort of power you're after.
CT20B is the best bolt on upgrade you can do, no question.

[fivebob]

You'll want to run it up on the dyno to check the AFR's, 14psi might be safe on one MR2 but not on another...but provided everything is kosher, then 14psi will be fine.

There's no real need to check the AFR on a Gen II 3S-GTE it will be very rich (~10-11:1) over about 10psi as the ECU dumps fuel to try and control detonation. Any 3S-GTE in reasonable condition should be ok at 14PSI.

[MR2BOY23]

Cars fine mechanically, only done 100 000kms

Its also using a mines ecu, would this effect anything?

[Dell'Orto]

You'll want to run it up on the dyno to check the AFR's, 14psi might be safe on one MR2 but not on another...but provided everything is kosher, then 14psi will be fine.

There's no real need to check the AFR on a Gen II 3S-GTE it will be very rich (~10-11:1) over about 10psi as the ECU dumps fuel to try and control detonation. Any 3S-GTE in reasonable condition should be ok at 14PSI.

Yeah but its better to be safe than assume the fuel system is sweet as, then wind up the boost and go bang

[Boosted_162]

There was a Greddy side mount i/c on TM not that long ago quite cheap, that would be the best option for now...it really does depend on what sort of power you're after.

*cough* that intercooler is sitting in my room as i type

[iOnic]

Take it along to a Torque Performance dyno day and set the boost to 14psi and do your first run and see what the AFR's are like. If you need to go lower you can do so and check that everything is safe on the second run

[Dell'Orto]

There was a Greddy side mount i/c on TM not that long ago quite cheap, that would be the best option for now...it really does depend on what sort of power you're after.

*cough* that intercooler is sitting in my room as i type

I should have guessed

[MR2BOY23]

Another question

This mines ecu will that have higher fuel cut and removed speed limiter?
Im trying to contact mines in Japan to get some more info on it but its all in Japanese

[flygt4]

they dump a whole of fuel fuel in somewhere after 10psi, my old st185 liked to do this. it tended to leave a momentary cloud of unburnt fuel as it took off.
the stock turbo is not very efficient at 14psi, although it does give it a good kick in the midrange. you will probably prematurely wear the ct26 out like this, they tend to get gradually noiser over time.

CT20b's have increased in price, so it may pay to check against other options nowadays, but almost every other option will require a new manifold or some sort of adaptor. I would expect the CT20B to still be the most cost effective option. they have been proven to happily churn out 175-180kw at 14-15ish psi, and they can get up around 190-200wkw if you wind the wick up a bit, but they don't last all that long like that.

A bolt in aftermarket side mount is the easiest option and is well worth the investment for a bit of peace of mind.

the stock boost pressure should actually be somewhere around 8-9psi anyway, or 6psi when the engine is cold or very hot if they run a VSV setup like the celica engine.
it may pay to check if these run a fuel cut too (?), my old ST185 had the factory cut at 15psi and it would put the engine into limp mode until turned off and restarted. It not usually an issue but you might find with a decent exhaust , it will spike on a cold night enough to hit the fuel cut.

[MR2BOY23]

Yes fuel cut at 12.7psi but Im looking at a FCD to change this
Will also be removing the vsv

Contacted mines in Japan, hopefully get a reply soon

[Dell'Orto]

Another question

This mines ecu will that have higher fuel cut and removed speed limiter?
Im trying to contact mines in Japan to get some more info on it but its all in Japanese

Not sure what the Mine's tuned roms are like, but typically those types of ecu upgrade will disable speed cut, disable boost cut, lift rev limit and change the fuelling and timing to something more aggressive than stock, and are tuned for Japanese fuels.

[flygt4]

I've seen mine's ECU's for supras and silvertops before.
The supra one did seem to go really well, and dynoed good too, and it had a rediculously high rev limit, and no speed cut etc. I think the intention is more to remove speed and rev limits in the japanese market, but they tend throw a bit of timing in while they are at it.

[20v_rollaboy]

The Mines ecu I had on my silver-top did exactly that as well.