Auto AE111 shudder at 100km

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Auto AE111 shudder at 100km

Postby ChaosAD » Tue Oct 20, 2009 5:59 pm

I picked up an auto BZ-G AE111 levin the other day and it has a bit of a shudder when cruising or accelerating on the open road.
It feels like your driving over cattle stops or a rough road but the shudder stops when you let off the gas.
Im assuming its transmission related as its not noticable at slower speeds, but I know nothing about auto's.

Any suggestions?
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Postby Alex B » Tue Oct 20, 2009 6:14 pm

Not just a wheel balance issue, my old mr2 (manual) had that at 100k, didn't bother to get it fixed but put it down to wheel balance.
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Postby Emperor » Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:30 pm

Check wheel nuts lol
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Postby .:O4AGTZ:. » Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:49 pm

im no expert but i would say check the gearbox fluids as maybe it needs a service. Our runaround lantis was randomly doing that at a few different speeds but it always seemed to be the same ones...now it dies when put into drive or reverse lol i think it may be a torque conv issue...solenoid gone or something
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:16 pm

or engine mounts
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Postby ChaosAD » Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:49 pm

Yea I initially thought it was a wheel balance issue or a bulge in a tyre but the shuddering stops when you close the throttle.

I changed the wheels shortly after getting the car and the shudder is still there.

Emperor, yes the wheel nuts are tight lol.

Apart from levels how do you check the fluids? I heard that smell and colour is no longer a reliable indicator with modern fluids/transmissions.

Could it be the torque convertor?

Engine doesnt seem to have much movement when revving it so I guess theyre ok.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:53 pm

the torque through it at 100kmh can move it more than at rest.
I spent a day chasing an odd vibe in an ae101 that only occurred above 80 kays. turned out to be engine mount related.
Other possibility is if someone has had the inner c/v apart. has been known to cause issues if they have a little wear and get put back in so the bearings are running in a different slot.
is it felt through the wheel? or ya bum?
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Postby tsoob » Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:05 pm

u got locating rings on the mags? if u want come by the shop ill chuck em up on the balancer for ya to have a quick look see
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Postby THA SHZ » Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:12 am

Mr Revhead wrote:or engine mounts


+ 1 on this , sounds the most likely 8)
nick its not balance if its been there in both sets of wheels and goes away when you let of gas 8)
Im guessing most likely rear engine mount aswell , that used to go on my corolla all the time till i nolathaned its ass :)
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Postby tsoob » Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:27 am

THA SHZ wrote:
Mr Revhead wrote:or engine mounts


+ 1 on this , sounds the most likely 8)
nick its not balance if its been there in both sets of wheels and goes away when you let of gas 8)
Im guessing most likely rear engine mount aswell , that used to go on my corolla all the time till i nolathaned its buttocks :)


just reminds me of that toyota thing I had issues with a while back, it was a problem with the tyre it's self in the end.

engine mount makes sense, but you would feel that all the way thru the rev range expecailly down low, i had 3 cracked mounts and you could see the enging jumping abound when you just gave it a rev at idle
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Postby Mr Revhead » Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:34 am

depends
as I mentioned above I have stuck a mount issue that was only evident with a lot of load on it, you could accerlerate as hard as like low down, but it wouldnt happen until over about 80ks.
On talking to some of the techs at work, it was pointed out to me that that is not at all uncommon as the forces on the engine/trans at 80-100kmh are quite a bit.

it may not be the issue here, but going from what he has told us so far, it could be.
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Postby Flannelman » Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:38 pm

Check to see if the driveshafts are straight.

Ive got the same issue but mine is due to me putting in a RH outer driveshaft into the LHS. Well, I hope it is as everything elce has been replaced! Broken engine mount, collapsed inner CV, new outer CV, new wheel bering, different tyres...
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Postby cat007 » Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:09 pm

Emperor wrote:Check wheel nuts lol



+1 for this

I had a vibration a while back in the supra - only happened when coasting

After wheel falling off going round a round about - I tracked the issue down to loose wheel nuts

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Postby ChaosAD » Mon Oct 26, 2009 2:51 pm

Good shit Rev, Checked it over today and found the front gearbox mount on its way out.

You can feel the vibration through the entire car, full throttle up a hill would be enough to give a chick multiple orgasms 8O

Whats the best way to go about fixing the engine mount? Urethane? or a new genuine mount?

Yes the wheel nuts are tight lol.

EDIT:
Traced the problem down to an inner CV joint which had no noticable movement in it when I first checked it.

It had white pen writing on it so must have been second hand and the grease was dry. One of the three bearings had fallen apart and the vibrations had damaged the transmission.

Was just the excuse I needed to send the slushbox to the scrappies and drop in a C56.
Last edited by ChaosAD on Fri Mar 19, 2010 12:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Mon Oct 26, 2009 4:00 pm

sometimes i fluke one :P

hmmm you sure you want to fix it then? :lol:

Urethane if it's for a race car, or something your making sporty, it will add more vibrations through the chassis than rubber. Also if you go urethane, do the rear one as well. they work in a pair, and if you make one stiffer it will carry more load and wear sooner than it should.

So if its a road car, or runabout, go rubber either repco/autolign/bnt or genuine, shop around
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