4AGE hesitation?

[Tagged]

Hi all~

I read in the 4AGE question tread about someone saying something about their car hesitating at certain rev or at cold temperature. It seems to be a common problem as lots of ppl responded with similar experience.

Since I've got a 4AGE too, I kinda wanna dig deeper into this....So what do they mean by hesitating? Is it just a lack of response when stepping down on gas or is it something else?

Thanks~

[touge_ae101]

like when you put your foot down it thinks about what its going to do then splutters a bit then takes off. or can be misfiring a bit. only happens when cold though.

there has been sooo many threads about this and almost everyone with a 20V has had this problem at some stage.

things that can cause worse sluttering than the normal 20V stutter...
- ecu water temp sensor gone
- oxy sensor (not so much as oxy sensor only talks to ecu when the engine is warm)
- timing out (should be 12degrees advanced ish)
- knock sensor
- fuel pump gone
- dizzy rotor + cap

EDIT: and of course the obvious ones;
- spark plugs
- ignition leads deteriorated
- crap petrol

if you search you can find out how to diagnose pretty much all of the above.

[Tagged]

Thanks for the detailed reply~

[whynot]

if its a silver top 20v the ecu can make it interesting as well once the capacitators start leaking and destroy the circuit board.

[touge_ae101]

oh true forgot about the whole 20V ecu capacitor thing. must be cause it is the only problem that i HAVEN'T had yet.

[Tagged]

good thing my car hasnt had the problem yet...at least I dont think it has...lol (at 170K already)

[whynot]

the ecu problem was only a problem in the earlier models say around the early 90's so if you have a bzg or bzr it should be fine

[matt dunn]

the ecu problem was only a problem in the earlier models say around the early 90's so if you have a bzg or bzr it should be fine

Yeah AE101 only with that fault.

[rolla_fxgt]

the ecu problem was only a problem in the earlier models say around the early 90's so if you have a bzg or bzr it should be fine

Yeah AE101 only with that fault.

It was just cause Toyota didn't want to make a perfect car that they made them leak.

[sergei]

the ecu problem was only a problem in the earlier models say around the early 90's so if you have a bzg or bzr it should be fine

Yeah AE101 only with that fault.

It was just cause Toyota didn't want to make a perfect car that they made them leak.

Nichikon problem affected more than cars, but many appliances. It just Nichikon dropped the ball in '90.

[FANGIN]

Actually, while on this topic...

I have a little bit of a problem with my AE111, it's done it since I've had it.

Start it from dead cold, runs fine (like any injected car should). However, if I drive it a short distance and turn it off before it gets fully warm, then restart it, it "bogs". Still drives fine under light throttle, but if you want to give it any more than say 1/4 throttle, it just doesn't want to move.

I usually just start it, let it idle for a minute, then drive off normally & the problem isn't there. It's like the car thinks that it is still cold when it is halfway to normal operating temp.

[Tagged]

thanks all for replying~~

and to FANGIN, hmm....mine doesnt seem to have this sort of problem, as im a fairly new manual driver, I used to stall a lot and need to restart the car at all sorts of conditions. The only "problem" I had is if I stall and restart too many times in a sort time, it would take a few more seconds for the car to start when I turn the key.

[FANGIN]

Yea, the problem doesn't really bother me, and it's the only issue with the car, which isn't bad for 283,000 kms

[Tagged]

Yea, the problem doesn't really bother me, and it's the only issue with the car, which isn't bad for 283,000 kms

haha yep! toyotas run forever if you look after them properly~

[touge_ae101]

Actually, while on this topic...

I have a little bit of a problem with my AE111, it's done it since I've had it.

Start it from dead cold, runs fine (like any injected car should). However, if I drive it a short distance and turn it off before it gets fully warm, then restart it, it "bogs". Still drives fine under light throttle, but if you want to give it any more than say 1/4 throttle, it just doesn't want to move.

I usually just start it, let it idle for a minute, then drive off normally & the problem isn't there. It's like the car thinks that it is still cold when it is halfway to normal operating temp.

my guess would be the ecu water temp sensor or possibly the oxy sensor. more likely water temp though. changed mine and it made a huge difference!

[FANGIN]

Will change it whan the new engine goes in later on this month.

[forge1]

Actually, while on this topic...

I have a little bit of a problem with my AE111, it's done it since I've had it.

Start it from dead cold, runs fine (like any injected car should). However, if I drive it a short distance and turn it off before it gets fully warm, then restart it, it "bogs". Still drives fine under light throttle, but if you want to give it any more than say 1/4 throttle, it just doesn't want to move.

I usually just start it, let it idle for a minute, then drive off normally & the problem isn't there. It's like the car thinks that it is still cold when it is halfway to normal operating temp.

my guess would be the ecu water temp sensor or possibly the oxy sensor. more likely water temp though. changed mine and it made a huge difference!

I have a 1997 Carib BZ-T and mine does exactly the same thing and boy does it piss me off. I have changed the Water Temp sensor (no change), I took it to my mechanic and he said there was no faults listed (may just to go toyota for a re check). If you floor it once it starts to bog down it actually goes mint and takes off.

Also I have a miss on idle for about the first 5min after starting mainly when its just off cold to normal running temp then goes away.

Along it a idle thats all over the place (ranges from 800 to 1500rpm's)

I may have a dud but got it cheap enough so if I have to sink some $$ into it its not a major.

If anyone else have some info Im all ears. I have gone through some of the posts and they all say the same thing so at least its got to be one of those.

[Bling]

Done the simple things like plugs / leads etc?

[forge1]

Done the simple things like plugs / leads etc?

Yeah done those as well forgot to mention.

But I got 2nd hand leads and still does it. Next on the list is Dizzy cap and rotor then oxy sensor but if Silver Top parts change over I will use those from a parts car I can get.

[DUGDUG]

Actually, while on this topic...

I have a little bit of a problem with my AE111, it's done it since I've had it.

Start it from dead cold, runs fine (like any injected car should). However, if I drive it a short distance and turn it off before it gets fully warm, then restart it, it "bogs". Still drives fine under light throttle, but if you want to give it any more than say 1/4 throttle, it just doesn't want to move.

I usually just start it, let it idle for a minute, then drive off normally & the problem isn't there. It's like the car thinks that it is still cold when it is halfway to normal operating temp.

Thought I'd throw my two cents in. I've pretty had the same thing as FANGIN.

I changed the plugs (just with copper plugs for now) and put some Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner through and it made it a little bit better but didn't fix anything. Checked the ECU and there weren't any leaking caps or damaged bits. I moved onto the oxygen sensor and tried cleaning it by soaking it in petrol overnight (method found on Google), didn't do anything either. So I tried Sergei's method of heating it with a blow torch. I did this lastnight and the car feels a lot smoother (so far). The hesitation has gone and when I throttle off the car doesn't "jolt" like it used to.

My car was running a bit rich, the old plugs were a bit carbon fouled and I'm not overly impressed with the economy (450kms to a tank). Hopefully with a functional oxygen sensor it might improve things.