Newbi wants to learn - Servicing my BZR

[Tagged]

After deciding how my BZR is gonna get fixed, im now thinking of getting it serviced; by myself.

BUT, I don't have a clue on how things should be done and what should be covered in a service. As im planning to keep this car till the end of the world, Im intending to have it serviced well, not just a oil change.....

this is all I know so far;
- engine oil change
- oil filter change
- air filter change
- power steering fluid change

here are my questions;

1. how are the above done?

2. what tools I would need?

3. does a pod filter needs changing?

4. what engine oil is recommended for a BZR; I know lower viscosity is better for 4A-GE engines, so 5W10, 5W15?, what brand and how many liters?

5. what kind of oil filter?

6. and what other things needs to be done in a service?

7. an auto requires auto-transmission fluid change, what about manuals?

8. when does power steering fluid needs to be changed?

9. lastly, wheres the best place to buy everything I need for this?

Thanks guys!

[Snaps]

this is all I know so far;
- engine oil change
- oil filter change
- air filter change
- power steering fluid change

here are my questions;

1. how are the above done?

-oil change: there are a ton of guides on this everywhere, just do a google search
-oil filter change: unscrew the old one off, spread a little new oil around the rubber seal on the new filter, screw the new filter back on and add however many turns it says to on the filter after it has contacted the filter mounting surface
-air filter change: very self-explanatory - take out the old one, chuck the new one in.
power steer fluid: no idea, ask someone else

2. what tools I would need?

-oil change: whatever socket to get the sump plug off, along with a breaker bar or maybe ratchet
-oil filter: may need a filter wrench, otherwise just use your hands
-air filter: hands

3. does a pod filter needs changing?

-usually, they still filter the air and still get clogged up, the exception is the cleanable filters that use an oil to trap the dust (usually K&N filters?), these just need to be cleaned every now and then, not changed.

4. what engine oil is recommended for a BZR; I know lower viscosity is better for 4A-GE engines, so 5W10, 5W15?, what brand and how many liters?

- I don't think I've ever seen a car use a 10 or 15 grade oil, you need something more around the 40's (so something like castrol magnatec 10W-40 should be fine), someone else can also chime in here if there is a better oil for the BZR

5. what kind of oil filter?

Go with a Toyota filter, guaranteed to be better than any of the Fram/Ryco/Repco filters, remember, Toyota designed your car, they know how to make a good oil filter for it.

6. and what other things needs to be done in a service?

Depends how far you want to go, there are a bunch of things that should be done, but many require different intervals. For example I would reccommend changing engine oil every 5000kms, whereas transmission oil can be changed up to 50,000kms down the line (I think?).

7. an auto requires auto-transmission fluid change, what about manuals?

Yes, manuals still have to use a lubricant (oil), just as auto's do, the interval change is roughly the same.

9. lastly, wheres the best place to buy everything I need for this?

Oil filter - Toyota
Oil - Repco/Supercheap
Air Filter - Also Toyota, don't fall for the K&N filter guff, it's proven they let more dirt into your engine than a stock paper filter.

Thanks guys!

No prob. Keep in mind I'm no expert, so if there is anything I have wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me.

[h8wrxs]

most people seem to think magnatec is crap oil....

dont know what to recommend though

[Snaps]

^ Meh, I've used it in all of my car's so far and never had a problem. Probably going to something better this oil change though for the supe.

[Bling]

most people seem to think magnatec is crap oil....

dont know what to recommend though

Careful there, i've seen a lot more people using Magnatec without problem compared to the number of people that make claims its a crap oil.

Don't believe everything you read on the net.

[solitaire]

Hi, Welcome to the Forum

All this stuff has been covered numerous times, the search funtion can yield some good results if you choose the right keywords.

Here's an FAQ prepared by the community on your car (AE111) - have a read when you have time: http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=29063

1. You would be best to get someone to show you first time around, its easy as but was quite daunting to me before someone showed me. And engine repair manual for an 4age ae111 would serve you well.

2. As for tools its all up to you but if you are serious about doing your own maintenance then a good socket set is a must, also if the oil filter is near the exhaust manifold on your blacktop as it is on my red top you definitely want one of these:
Available from repco, Powerbuilt part number AF0304

You will also need a oil drain pan, a set of axle stands (NOT scissor jacks) and a trolley jack. Do Not get under you car unless it is resting firmly on axle stands with wheel chocks both in front and behind both rear wheels without exception <- This may save your life.

3. A good pod filter will need cleaning and re oiling in accordance with the manufacturers guidelines, I run a K&N pod in my mr2 and run a K&N replacement panel filter in my stock AE92 Levin intake housing.

4. In supercheap or repco there will be an book in the oil section, find the model and year of your car in there (4age AE111) and it will tell you the oil you should use - dont spend a fortune.

5. Everyone seems to favour the repco branded filtes or the oem toyota filters, fram has a bad reputation from what i have seen - if you want to be ultra safe get toyota oem filters - Mark at Manuwatu Toyota is a club sponsor and you can get a nice discount on toyota parts see the thread here:
http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=66290http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?t=66290

6. It depends on where you are in the cars life, it should say on the underside of the bonnet when things need to be replaced. An AE111 service manual will have the full story.

7. Manual Tranny's need fluid change too, every 24 months i think.

8. Depends on the system, my 1990 levin uses brake fluid and has never been changed in 10 years. My 1994 lexus uses auto tranny fluid and needs a change once a year because its poked and a shitty design. The workshop manual should tell you.

9. Supercheap or ripco (unless someone knows a better place for the fluids?), Or Mark at Manuwatu toyota for specific parts.

as for tools try this:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Building-renovation/Tools/Tool-boxes-sets/auction-330066319.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Tools-repair-kits/Other/auction-329788688.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Tools-repair-kits/Other/auction-329210203.htm

I've got King Tony tools and find them to be excellent.

Get the rest from repco or supercheap, make sure you get your oil recycled by a recycling centre, dont just pour it down the drain etc.

***Disclaimer: Internet advice is not worth the paper its written on, get someone who has been working on cars for a while to give you some pointers ***

best of luck mate.

[solitaire]

Jesus in the time it took me to type that 300 people have already replied... fail

[solitaire]

Air Filter - Also Toyota, don't fall for the K&N filter guff, it's proven they let more dirt into your engine than a stock paper filter.

Bugger, i run k&n's because i hate buying new filters and throwing the old ones away! has not done any harm to my engines (yet) but sad to hear that - do you have any links to the study?

[Bling]

Was going to edit my post to add the tools.... but everything is covered there ^^

Flushing the coolant and replacing it with new stuff could be on the list too. A lot will come down to the mileage of the car..

[h8wrxs]

most people seem to think magnatec is crap oil....

dont know what to recommend though

Careful there, i've seen a lot more people using Magnatec without problem compared to the number of people that make claims its a crap oil.

Don't believe everything you read on the net.

i used to use magnatec in both my evos and it made the tapets real noisy, only reason i stopped using it. i just went back to good old cheap castrol gtx, which ive always used

i dont know much about oil though so... meh

[Hachiroku]

Would definitely be worth tracking down a manual if you can find one for your car, helps a lot when you're new to it. Nothing wrong with Magnatec, I just refuse to buy it because of their bullshit marketing propaganda. "Intelligent molecules..." "Liquid engineering..." $&#$% marketing departments

[escortman]

best advice - either get a mechanically minded mate to walk you through it for a box of stella or buy a haynes manual,

also one thing people often forget to mention is change the brakefluid, can make a world of difference to pedal feel

[Snaps]

Air Filter - Also Toyota, don't fall for the K&N filter guff, it's proven they let more dirt into your engine than a stock paper filter.

Bugger, i run k&n's because i hate buying new filters and throwing the old ones away! has not done any harm to my engines (yet) but sad to hear that - do you have any links to the study?

Ok, maybe I was stretching the truth a little, it hasn't exactly been proven (that I know of), but this is what I have to back me up.... Not exactly much, but it's gotta be worth something :

Message: I worked for race teams for years. One Toyota Atlantic team I worked on the driver thought the car was losing power from the start of a race to the end. So we did leak down checks when we got new engines in. 3% leak down- New. At the end of a race we checked it again and we got 29% leak down. So we sent the head to get the valves done and checked the leak down when the head returned. 4%- Leak down. At the end of the next race 31%- leak down. So we put three dabs of grease down stream of the air filter. "K&N" The next engine came in with 3%-leak down new. And at the end of the race 32%- leak down and the dabs of grease were full of grit. So we changed the filter to a oiled foam filter. 3%- leak down new and at the end of the next race? 18%-leak down. Better still not good. So we made a new air box and used a Mustang GT stock air filter. 3%-leak down new at the end of the next race? 1%- leak down, yes I said "1%". The rings bed in and the engine seals up. We went from changing a engine at 300 miles with 29 to 34% leak down to changing the engine at 800 miles with 7% leak down.

So the bottom line is. You might gain a little more power (1 to 2hp) but it will not last long and before you know it you will have a LOT less.
I work on 944s only and when I tear down a 944 engine that has had a K&N filter the cylinders have a LOT of scoring from dirt that got through the filter.
If you dont beleve me do the grease test your self. Take out the filter and put a dab of grease in the air box. Then put your K&N filter in and drive the car for a few weeks and pull the filter out and check the dab of grease.

...Hardly proven, and I don't have a source, but just some numbers you guys may believe.

And also, from a guy that worked in the Air filter business for 20 years IIRC:

Im not going to say its a rigged test, but in all my years of fabrication and testing, ive still not found how you can take two gauze type base filters of compareable size, and the one that filters more dirt (ie turbulates causing drag, and captures small particles of dirt) is the one that also makes the most amount of HP. Haha , that just doesnt make sense unless you increase the surface area.

now /clogging up of this guys thread please, not that we don't do that enough here at TS.

[Tagged]

hmm looks like I've got quite some stuff to buy there....

anyways thanks to you all for your replies!!!

oh one thing thats been in my mind for quite a while is; whats the difference between an axle stand and those jacks that comes with the car? I mean they both do the same job as to lifting cars up right?

and I bought this car with "Calibre" pod filter fitted in, any1 know anything about Calibre stuff? like are they good or not.

Cheers

[RS13]

An axle stand isn't a jack, its' just to hold the car up while you're under it. I use the scissor jack that came with the car, they're slow but do the job.

[AE92-5ONIC]

hmm looks like I've got quite some stuff to buy there....

anyways thanks to you all for your replies!!!

oh one thing thats been in my mind for quite a while is; whats the difference between an axle stand and those jacks that comes with the car? I mean they both do the same job as to lifting cars up right?

and I bought this car with "Calibre" pod filter fitted in, any1 know anything about Calibre stuff? like are they good or not.

Cheers

Axel stands hold the car up once it has been jacked up (using a jack), NEVER use a jack to hold the car up while undernethe it...

As for branded air filters... Don't take too much attention to brands, as long as they do the job and do it right, in saying that, i'm sure you're safe with calibre.

[Snaps]

To elaborate on how to jack your car up - to make sure you don't hurt yourself or your car.... Lift it up with a jack, in the right place (not sure where this is on the AE111's (?)), then place two axle stands underneath the car, once again in the right places. Extend the axle stands enough to give yourself enough room. You then need to make sure you re-lower the car onto the axle stands, so it's them holding the car up, not the jack.

Putting the car back down is the opposite, jack the car off of the axle stands, take the stands out, lower the car. Simple .

Edit: I will admit I don't like any of the Calibre stuff from SCA, all seems too cheap to me.... The filter should be fine for the moment though if you're running low on money. I would go to another brand relatively soon though, Apexi is good!

[allencr]

What's the compression? Check valve lash & re-torque the head.
Shake it almost as hard as you can to see if it'll fall off the concrete block or wood or whatever it's on.
All belts(timing alt. waterpump powersteering AC), filters(air fuel oil), hoses(water vacuum powersteering AC brake clutch) fluids(oil coolant powersteering brake clutch trans & diff), grease(wheel bearings, suspension/steering).

[loudstealthGT-Four]

To elaborate on how to jack your car up - to make sure you don't hurt yourself or your car.... Lift it up with a jack, in the right place (not sure where this is on the AE111's (?)), then place two axle stands underneath the car, once again in the right places. Extend the axle stands enough to give yourself enough room. You then need to make sure you re-lower the car onto the axle stands, so it's them holding the car up, not the jack.

Putting the car back down is the opposite, jack the car off of the axle stands, take the stands out, lower the car. Simple .

Ensure the car is solid and stable while on the axle stands, and wont fall off when your trying to undo a really tight nut/bolt (before you do any work on it)

[Snaps]

^ Good point If they're in the right places, they should be anyway, but best to check first