Need help designing an airbox

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Need help designing an airbox

Postby siren676 » Sat Feb 19, 2011 11:01 pm

Im planning on making an airbox to shield my pod filter heat and get a cold air source to it.
In thinking of using either the headlight, foglight or hood scoop to be the source of the cold air.

I done mind replacing the factory intake tubing and relocating the pod

Any ideas?

Pic of engine bay
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Postby Bling » Sat Feb 19, 2011 11:49 pm

Move the battery, box up the battery area, run intake pipe to somewhere at the front, sorted.

Or put a factory intake box back in with a good panel filter.
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Postby levinguy » Sun Feb 20, 2011 1:06 am

BZG|Bling wrote:Move the battery, box up the battery area, run intake pipe to somewhere at the front, sorted.

Or put a factory intake box back in with a good panel filter.


the second one.
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Postby Akane » Sun Feb 20, 2011 4:59 am

waste of time, on modern engines every 10 degrees you lower, you yield approx 1hp, and that's on performance engines.
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Postby touge_ae101 » Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:57 am

there would be a couple of different ways of doing it.

1. move the battery to the boot and box up the corner, feeding it from the fog light would be ideal.

2. flip the pod around so it points towards the rear corner of the engine bay (i can't see anything there from the pic), boxing off the corner from the engine bay heat then having a col air feed either coming from the scoop or the foglight.

might pay to utilise the scoop to make it a bit different. although bringing the airflow across the underside of the bonnet is kind of tricky. could do it with a few small-ish flexi hoses, or go all out and get someone to make a fibreglass duct under the bonnet.
either way its not good to put the pod in a box and not feed it could air, it will just suck hot air anyway.

make sure if you are feeding from a high pressure area like the foglight or bonnet scoop, not to completely seal the box that the pod is in. make usre to leave space for excess air to escape down the bottom etc so the airbox doesn't pressurize, forcing air into your engine and potentially leaning it out. - just something to keep in mind

PS if you choose to move the battery to the boot, don't use a el cheapo repco battery box as it won't be suitable for any sort of motorsport + drag racing. might pay to keep an eye out in the next month or two cause there could be a product coming to the market which does meet all the regs. :wink:
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Postby Stu- » Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:06 am

New battery tray next to strut tower then box off around the headlight and feed from inner guard/front grill.

Ask on SC too
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Postby touge_ae101 » Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:11 am

Stu- wrote:New battery tray next to strut tower then box off around the headlight and feed from inner guard/front grill.

Ask on SC too


trouble with even moving the battery that far, technically you still need to go all out with the mounting like having 4xm8 threaded rod holding it down etc as you have 'moved from the factory location'.
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Postby Stu- » Sun Feb 20, 2011 10:19 am

Yeah agree buts its doable - I did it years ago to an EP71, just need to make sure its well braced. Didn't know about the 4x rods thou, I used a folded tray and two rod alloy brace across the top - was more solid than the stock tray.

Other option is go to a small drycell, much easier/smaller to mount.
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Postby soopachargen » Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:01 am

get one of those relocation kits that puts the intake in the front of the engine, i think the part number is CT9?
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Postby shihad » Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:18 am

Akane wrote:waste of time, on modern engines every 10 degrees you lower, you yield approx 1hp, and that's on performance engines.

really??? im a little sceptical its that little.whats your defination of modern and performance? surely if it was that little intercoolers would be a waste of time.
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Postby Stu- » Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:43 am

soopachargen wrote:get one of those relocation kits that puts the intake in the front of the engine, i think the part number is CT9?


+1 although I've heard tdo4l's are better
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Postby soopachargen » Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:12 pm

shihad wrote:
Akane wrote:waste of time, on modern engines every 10 degrees you lower, you yield approx 1hp, and that's on performance engines.

really??? im a little sceptical its that little.whats your defination of modern and performance? surely if it was that little intercoolers would be a waste of time.


intercoolers lower the temperature of the compressed charge from the turbo, the air coming into his filter hasn't been heated by compression
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Postby Akane » Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:18 pm

shihad wrote:
Akane wrote:waste of time, on modern engines every 10 degrees you lower, you yield approx 1hp, and that's on performance engines.

really??? im a little sceptical its that little.whats your defination of modern and performance? surely if it was that little intercoolers would be a waste of time.


Just a general rule of thumb, and a turbo compresses air to over 100c, also it's the detonation that you're trying to prevent with an intercooler.
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Postby touge_ae101 » Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:18 pm

or as another suggestion, move the battery and make a airbox like this;

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Postby siren676 » Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:32 pm

Stu- wrote:
soopachargen wrote:get one of those relocation kits that puts the intake in the front of the engine, i think the part number is CT9?


+1 although I've heard tdo4l's are better

Ive heard that relocation kit works better on a 5e

@togue thats along the lines of what i was thinking. Just dont want to go through the hassle of moving my battery

@bzgbling i dont want to put the factory airbox back in as it never came with the ducting to it and was just sucking in hot air
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Postby soopachargen » Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:33 pm

putting the factory airbox in and making custom ducting sounds like the easiest option
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Postby siren676 » Sun Feb 20, 2011 12:47 pm

Dont really want to use the factory airbox
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Postby nzhogrider » Sun Feb 20, 2011 1:01 pm

Lowering the intake air temp will always yield beneficial gains by resultant thermal (and therefore, due to the increased density of the cooler air, volumetric) efficiencies. I'm pretty sure the gains are worth the effort of either relocating the factory battery location or reverting back to factory airbox. From what I have heard the filter in a factory airbox is not the greatest restriction in the system; it's the small air inlet to the box which causes the greatest restriction. And the simplest and stealthiest way around it is to create a second inlet into the airbox ducted from a cool/high pressure location. i.e. from beneath the car and through the inner guard to the airbox. Often refered to as a second-hole mod. Alternatively you could enlarge the factory inlet hole in the airbox, and duct cold air to it in the same way.
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Postby Emperor » Sun Feb 20, 2011 1:33 pm

siren676 wrote:Dont really want to use the factory airbox


Why not? Not bling enough?
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Postby siren676 » Sun Feb 20, 2011 1:45 pm

Nah just makes the car sound shit
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