Idle problem (not toyota)

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Idle problem (not toyota)

Postby Emperor » Mon May 09, 2011 11:40 pm

Hopefully someone on here might be able to help.. I know I should go ask on a rotary forum but most of them are for ropeheads with modgies and pitbulls stitched to the back seats.

Got the RX7 going finally, but doesn't wana idle anything below 3K..
Has Link G3 Plus. I've put gasket glue on all the intake peices, plugged up all nipples, and tried playing with idle adjustment and TPS.

As soon as it's turned on it goes up to 3K... It'll come down once warm, but because I still haven't bled the coolant yet I don't wana run it till warm or bleed coolant with it idling at 3K... lol

If anyone has any ideas or has had similar issue or know of mates/etc, be a big help

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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue May 10, 2011 12:16 am

Coolant temp sensor died maybe? Someone installed peripheral ports when you werent looking? :lol:
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Postby Emperor » Tue May 10, 2011 12:19 am

Nah already had coolant temp pack up at a track day, been replaced since. And that only affected rev limit (brought it down to 5K like a limp mode but extreme)
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Postby matt dunn » Tue May 10, 2011 12:39 am

Not a rotary expert,

but if it is reving high at idle it must be getting air in there somehow,
as they cant run with no air.

Either the throttle plate is open,
the air bypass is bypassing too much air,
or there is a leak.

As soon as it's turned on it goes up to 3K... It'll come down once warm, but because I still haven't bled the coolant yet I don't wana run it till warm or bleed coolant with it idling at 3K


Maybe because it hasn't been bleed the ait bypass lets it rev high?

Maybe put it all back together and bleed it properly before you go searching for a fault?
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Postby Emperor » Tue May 10, 2011 8:33 am

Huh...? I haven't bled the coolant.... How would that affect idle? All coolant lines near throttle body or intake have been blocked off btw
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Postby tsoob » Tue May 10, 2011 10:35 am

nothing to do with the 'valley of doom' (emmissions rubbish that usually gets removed?)

have you check the ecu for any codes etc?
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Postby Emperor » Tue May 10, 2011 4:28 pm

Checked ECU nothing

It's cold idling at 1800 now which is semi normal. Just once it starts to get warm it dies, so might plug back in and check the ecu again later.
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Postby tsoob » Tue May 10, 2011 10:46 pm

nothing silly like the throttle stop is not in the proper place
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Postby Lloyd » Tue May 10, 2011 11:51 pm

Not idling under a certain rpm... is it fouling plugs? What is the timing like when its coming down under 1800rpm and running wrong?
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Postby Emperor » Tue May 10, 2011 11:55 pm

May have problem sorted, giving it another go tomorrow playing with TPS and idle stopper.

Nothing's been changed since it last ran fine(couple months ago). But will check timing if this fails.
Ignition's fine I'm sure but may have to pull plugs out. May have trailling and leading in wrong way
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Postby MR2BOY23 » Wed May 11, 2011 12:00 am

sounds like the the bypass air control valve

It is therefore putting more load on the engine and slowing it down. To prevent the engine from turning too slow (or even stalling), the ECU compensates the increased load by lengthening the pulse width to the BAC valve. This has the effect of increasing the engine speed back to normal idle speed (obtained when there is no load on engine)
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Postby Emperor » Wed May 11, 2011 12:25 am

Yeh it's idling at 2K now, but drops down to 500rpm then kicks back up to 2K then dies eventually, almost like anti stall
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Postby Emperor » Wed May 11, 2011 10:19 pm

Fixed! Was a leak between throttle body and top inlet. Sealed up, reposition TPS and now idles mint.
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Postby MR2BOY23 » Wed May 11, 2011 11:15 pm

Emperor wrote:Fixed! Was a leak between throttle body and top inlet. Sealed up, reposition TPS and now idles mint.


sweet :lol:
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