Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **mazdahard** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:04 pm

Hey guys gave the gtt a oil change today suprise they gave me the wrong oil filter its longer its z432 however once I left the driveway the oil light flashed at me and went off when i came off the gas and came on again when I put my foot back on the gas went home put about another 100ml in it and no more oil light any ideas?wil this filter be alright or should I change it to z436?

by **click99m** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:52 pm

The z432 has 3/4'' x 16UNF and the z436 has a M20x1.5 thread so the thread if different between those two. The z432 has a slightly smaller gasket size.

z386 is smaller in length but has the same thread and gasket as the z432.

by **mazdahard** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:57 pm

sorry yeah meant should I change it to z386. it should be alright running this filter?or should i stop tempting fate and just change it?any idea why the oil light would of flickered then nothing after filling it with a bit more???

by **click99m** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 4:45 pm

The filter is fine. As long as the lights not on after the oil is at the correct level.

by **mazdahard** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 4:53 pm

sweet have taken it for two drives since and no oil light

by **allencr** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 5:20 pm

click99m wrote:The z432 has 3/4'' x 16UNF and the z436 has a M20x1.5 ...

I'd only be concerned that the different matchup has produced a small shard or 3, that is the filter outlet & goes directly to your bearings.
100mml worth of oil doesn't amount to shit, but oil pressure sensors for lights are shit.

by **sergei** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 6:00 pm

Toyota uses 3/4 x16UNF and not metric (since their first engines were copied american).

Website · by **Bling** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:27 pm

Oil level is at full on the dipstick?
(have to ask)

by **mazdahard** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:37 pm

lol yeah

by **mazdahard** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:39 pm

Also have another issue now after changing the thermostat round town temp gaug sits just under half get onto the open road and it goes down a bit. before it used to go back down to cold any ideas?air lock somewhere maybe?

by **Garreth27** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:23 am

sounds like old thermostat was bung and prob stuck open and new thermostat is working fine.

by **Grrrrrrr!** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 6:45 am

New thermostat is a tridon?

by **mazdahard** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 5:13 pm

new thermostat it oem toyota one its working better than it was before but temp gauge fluctuates about 1mm while crusing also. maybe low on coolant?

by **Garreth27** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:41 pm

even when on the open road the temp shouldn't be down to the C on the guage, half way or just below half is normal.

by **mazdahard** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 7:46 pm

hmm maybe ive got a dud thermostat?with new thermostat it doesnt go down to c it goes between just below half and about a mm or two below that

Website · by **Bling** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:30 pm

Check what they said again :wink:

Sounds normal to me, old thermostat didn't sound right at all. Mine pretty much doesn't move from around halfway.

by **mazdahard** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:50 pm

Also noticed tonight when coming off the motorway the temp gauge moved down to about 1/4 on deceleration then back upto normal temp once pulling away from the giveway sign might take it out and swap it again still doesnt seem quite right to me

by **iOnic** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 9:56 pm

mazdahard wrote: the oil light flashed at me and went off when i came off the gas and came on again when I put my foot back on the gas

mazdahard wrote: the temp gauge moved down to about 1/4 on deceleration then back upto normal temp once pulling away from the giveway sign

Sounds like you have an electronic issue.

by **mazdahard** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 5:30 pm

It could be actually however the oil light hasnt presented itself since. next time I come off the motorway and temp gauge drops Ill try the heater to see if Im still getting hot air or cool air thanks for your help guys

by **MilfHunter** » Wed Aug 01, 2012 10:58 pm

Water temp gauge moving more than a 1mm or two when hot indicates a thermostat stuck in the open position.
When you changed it did you flush out the head, block, heater, hoses and radiator with a hose?
Is the water rusty? Did you use antifreeze?

When you removed the two oil filters, was the filters full of oil?
If not, the pump/bearings are worn and air is entering the system when stopped.
When you remove a filter or drain the sump air enters the system and what the manufacturer's aren't telling you is that you should then disconnect the dizzy or coil and crank the motor 1st to pump out all the air before starting (race teams do this every time they start a cold motor)
The oil light is connected to a pressure switch, what the light was telling you is that you were trying to drive with a system full of air - not good

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