Brake binding / Slides sticking.

[Quint]

Pulled apart the ma45 brakes years ago when all four calipers where seized on the discs, got it all sorted after a lot of cursing. Fast forward to 18-months later and the rear right has started dragging again.

Pulled the caliper off /apart last weekend, knocked off excess rust and jammed it full of grease hoping it'd be sweet and only seized up because it had been parked up the whole time.
*sad trombone*

Still drags a wee bit, you can turn the wheel (ish) so it's not epic stuck like it was, but you can still smell it / feel the heat after a 20min drive.

My guess is the slides are catching. The chrome vanadium (coating??) has blistered off due to the iron under rusting. Thinking the swollen iron is basically too thick to travel through the limited space. (hoping like $&#$% it's not the pot)

Soooo what are my options? Do i need to get the slides re-coated or can you buy them off the shelf?

[Stott69]

Ive just had similar on the aristo, one brake draging on a pad, and one pad never engaging on the other. Ended up changing the whole mount and sliders with second hand

[Quint]

I think i went looking for replacement jobbies all those years ago and basically returned with nothing.
Any commonality between slides? pics?

[Stott69]

Not sure if there are alternatives for the ma45, have a friendly chat with a toyota parts person and see if the can do a parts comparison for you.

[Crucible]

Make yourself a mandrel out of an old bolt and cut a slot down the centre with a hacksaw. Wind some course grit paper around it and then use a drill and lots of brackclean to clean the slide holes out so there is no rust. Clean the slide pins with emery also.

Coat the slides with coppercoat and give that a go, that will generally fix the problem. If it still drags then caliper may need an internal kit.

[Quint]

this stuff?
http://coppercoat.com/wp-content/upload ... e_2012.pdf (just a brochure link)

Sounds like a plan, which is better than nothing. Will have a look into it.
Do you reckon i should take off the remaining existing coating, or just the flaky shit and apply it ontop?

Cheers.

[ee904age]

Just any copper or nickel anti seize will do the job, doesn't have to be "Copper-Coat" brand. I'm not sure about other engineering shops but we sell a small pot for about $6 that will do what you need, most brands only do a toothpaste sized tube which can be expensive but is always worth having in the toolbox for wheel nuts etc.

[Crucible]

this stuff?
http://coppercoat.com/wp-content/upload ... e_2012.pdf (just a brochure link)

Sounds like a plan, which is better than nothing. Will have a look into it.
Do you reckon i should take off the remaining existing coating, or just the flaky shit and apply it ontop?

Cheers.

It's just a copper based anti seize grease. Repco sell it in a white tub. We use it on most brake jobs to lube slides, rear shoe backplates and on the back of brake pads.

Yeah I would clean the flaking off with a buff wheel and then coat the slide pins with that stuff. As long as the caliper can move on the pins freely it should be fine.

[allencr]

You've got a choice, slides and/or piston, gotta look at both.