Wellington Based Members - Checkup of my Blacktop

[geebuddy]

Hi guys,

Putting it out there, if anyone in the Wellington area with experience and interest in 4AGE motors can give me an assist checking out how my engine is running, due to my fairly limited (but growing) experience and mechanical abilities.

Car is a 1996 5 speed BZ touring Sprinter Carib wagon with a Blacktop, 230,00 k's.

Failing that, any recommended mechanics in Wellington to go to for a running checkup?

Ideal scenario - you are a friendly, seasoned 4AGE enthusiast, I bring the car round to yours and we spend about an hour or so poking about with the engine. I will give you beer or something for your time, and I get to learn a bit!

If this request is fairly ridiculous, well then let me have it I suppose

Cheers!

[MrOizo]

What a good idea!

Are you looking for a specific problem? If not then it shouldn't matter who you spend time with looking over engines.

Seeing other engines and understanding different components not specific to the 4AGE would/could broaden knowledge even more.

Look up Eric the Car Guy on YouTube - he has plenty of good tutorials and explains very well!

Not sure how to share a channel via mobile but here's one of his 'how it works' videos. https://youtu.be/d9clD8ZL8xA

[geebuddy]

What a good idea!

Are you looking for a specific problem? If not then it shouldn't matter who you spend time with looking over engines.

Seeing other engines and understanding different components not specific to the 4AGE would/could broaden knowledge even more.

Look up Eric the Car Guy on YouTube - he has plenty of good tutorials and explains very well!

Not sure how to share a channel via mobile but here's one of his 'how it works' videos. https://youtu.be/d9clD8ZL8xA

Actually watched a video of his to change a CV joint, was very useful!

No specific problems as such, just want to be confident that it's running as well as it can and if there's any obvious issues (that I am unaware of).

It had symptoms of a failed oxygen sensor (and diagnosed codes 21 and 25) but seems to have come right of its own accord. Maybe will require replacement at some point.

Cheers mate

[sergei]

What a good idea!

Are you looking for a specific problem? If not then it shouldn't matter who you spend time with looking over engines.

Seeing other engines and understanding different components not specific to the 4AGE would/could broaden knowledge even more.

Look up Eric the Car Guy on YouTube - he has plenty of good tutorials and explains very well!

Not sure how to share a channel via mobile but here's one of his 'how it works' videos. https://youtu.be/d9clD8ZL8xA

Actually watched a video of his to change a CV joint, was very useful!

No specific problems as such, just want to be confident that it's running as well as it can and if there's any obvious issues (that I am unaware of).

It had symptoms of a failed oxygen sensor (and diagnosed codes 21 and 25) but seems to have come right of its own accord. Maybe will require replacement at some point.

Cheers mate

Here how you could test oxygen sensor and ECU fuel trim function:
In diagnostic connector there will be three pins of interest: Ox1, Vf1 and E1.
Ox1 (or Ox) is Oxygen sensor output (how it comes into ECU).
Vf1 (or Vf) is the fuel trim output
E1 is the earth (GND).

To check Oxygen sensor directly, connect digital multimeter in 2V range (DC) to Ox1 and E1.
On warm vehicle the voltage should fluctuate between 0V-0.1V and 0.9V-1.0V, specifically at about 2000rpm it should fluctuate about 8 times per 10 seconds.

To check what ECU does with Oxygen sensor and other inputs, connect digital multimeter in 20V range (DC) to Vf1 and E1.
At 2000rpm on warm vehicle it should be ideally in ~2.5V (no compensation), the VF output steps between 0V,1.25V,2.5V,3.75V and 5V:
0V: Fault (open loop) or trying to compensate very rich condition (eg: Ox. sensor reading low all the time)
1.25V: closed loop, but there is a slight rich condition that is being compensated.
2.5V: closed loop, ideal.
3.75V: closed loop, slight lean condition is being compensated (the ECU riches out the mixture a bit).
5V: closed loop, very lean condition is being compensated (probably something is wrong, eg.: vacuum leak).

Maximum compensation that ECU will do is about 20%.

If Oxygen sensor is slow, it could be revived with butane torch, just heat it up to red hot for a few minutes (you could measure output while you are doing that, it will generate voltage on its own).

[geebuddy]

What a good idea!

Are you looking for a specific problem? If not then it shouldn't matter who you spend time with looking over engines.

Seeing other engines and understanding different components not specific to the 4AGE would/could broaden knowledge even more.

Look up Eric the Car Guy on YouTube - he has plenty of good tutorials and explains very well!

Not sure how to share a channel via mobile but here's one of his 'how it works' videos. https://youtu.be/d9clD8ZL8xA

Actually watched a video of his to change a CV joint, was very useful!

No specific problems as such, just want to be confident that it's running as well as it can and if there's any obvious issues (that I am unaware of).

It had symptoms of a failed oxygen sensor (and diagnosed codes 21 and 25) but seems to have come right of its own accord. Maybe will require replacement at some point.

Cheers mate

Here how you could test oxygen sensor and ECU fuel trim function:
In diagnostic connector there will be three pins of interest: Ox1, Vf1 and E1.
Ox1 (or Ox) is Oxygen sensor output (how it comes into ECU).
Vf1 (or Vf) is the fuel trim output
E1 is the earth (GND).

To check Oxygen sensor directly, connect digital multimeter in 2V range (DC) to Ox1 and E1.
On warm vehicle the voltage should fluctuate between 0V-0.1V and 0.9V-1.0V, specifically at about 2000rpm it should fluctuate about 8 times per 10 seconds.

To check what ECU does with Oxygen sensor and other inputs, connect digital multimeter in 20V range (DC) to Vf1 and E1.
At 2000rpm on warm vehicle it should be ideally in ~2.5V (no compensation), the VF output steps between 0V,1.25V,2.5V,3.75V and 5V:
0V: Fault (open loop) or trying to compensate very rich condition (eg: Ox. sensor reading low all the time)
1.25V: closed loop, but there is a slight rich condition that is being compensated.
2.5V: closed loop, ideal.
3.75V: closed loop, slight lean condition is being compensated (the ECU riches out the mixture a bit).
5V: closed loop, very lean condition is being compensated (probably something is wrong, eg.: vacuum leak).

Maximum compensation that ECU will do is about 20%.

If Oxygen sensor is slow, it could be revived with butane torch, just heat it up to red hot for a few minutes (you could measure output while you are doing that, it will generate voltage on its own).

Thanks Sergei, I will give this a go this weekend and see what I come up with - picked up a new (old) multimeter this week.

Also will compression test for a laugh.

Appreciate the input

[geebuddy]

Ox1 showed ranged between 0.05v and 0.8v max with some throttle.

Vf1 showed max 2.5v with some throttle.

Looks like the ideal range for both...

About a month ago the car was very sluggish, would barely accelerate with the gas pedal. Lasted 1day, then back to normal driving. Diagnosed codes 21 and 25 following that, and reset ecu. No issues since, no codes thrown. Sensor appears original and has a snapped clip for the plug, could be an issue...

I suspect a vacuum leak somewhere around the airbox/ throttle area as I can hear hissing, might try spraying crc about or take to a garage for a smoke test to confirm.

[sergei]

Ox1 showed ranged between 0.05v and 0.8v max with some throttle.

Vf1 showed max 2.5v with some throttle.

Looks like the ideal range for both...

About a month ago the car was very sluggish, would barely accelerate with the gas pedal. Lasted 1day, then back to normal driving. Diagnosed codes 21 and 25 following that, and reset ecu. No issues since, no codes thrown. Sensor appears original and has a snapped clip for the plug, could be an issue...

I suspect a vacuum leak somewhere around the airbox/ throttle area as I can hear hissing, might try spraying crc about or take to a garage for a smoke test to confirm.

Intermittent 21 and 25 suggest there was a connector or earth issues (although with earth issue it should have more codes).

If you have 2.5V on VF it is unlikely it will have air leak.
Another thing to check is the centre pin on throttle position sensor - it should read 0.5V on closed throttle (with ignition on). On black top there are three wires in four pin connector use the middle to measure. Other two wires should read 0V and 5V. You will have to measure the sensor while it is plugged in (you can gently push the probe through rubber seals on the connector).