What to Buy

[nmemr2]

hey guys. im looking into upgrading my sound system for a couple reasons. firstly to get better volume/DB out of the system, secondly i want better sound quality as well.
head unit is good for now but due for replacement is the 2 X 12" subs so probably a better amp as well, the 2 cheap 6X9's and the front speakers, 6.5" i think but thinking components would fit quite well

dont know all that much about sound gear but i know enough to get by
any reccomendations or your preferences would help greatly

[V8MOFO]

talk to `blackrazor`

I understand his is the man to talk to if you want some serious equipment.

www.audioapex.co.nz i think?

[Monster_Magnet]

Ok talk to Black Razor but if you want advice from a three year champ in sound offs and installs his own gear talk to me.

I used to use all almost all SONY equipment then i heard JVC and changed I get 148.9 Db from two 250watt rms/500 watt max 12 inch subs with 256 watts into each all JVC gear.

Good front components 6 inch with tweeters and cross overs good for 300 watts max and backs I have 6 inch two ways but am upgrading to 6x9's.

The best part is it's very easy to install and manage the subs require a very low volume of air behind them meaning smaller enclosers = less boot room required.

[DeeCee]

interesting.. you use to compete in CANZE or OACICE or both? or still compete in DBDrags?

and why quote max figures.. you want something listenable so at least quote a RMS figure

also you haven't really answered the question very well have you? We're not talking your system, we're talking nmemr2's system.

I would suggest looking at some 6 - 6.5" front component speakers - look to spend around $200 - 250 for these.
One good sub will be far better than 2 average subs - look for quality and ensure that you build a box that is designed for the sub rather than getting a pre-fabbed box.
if you are going for the one sub route then look at a powerful 4 channel amp that pushes around 4x100wrms that way you can run the fronts and sub off the amp with the rears off the headunit.

and 6x9s are the devil.. useless when you have a sub as it draws all the sound to the rear of the car - get some good 6" coaxials

also, where are you located? Pauls Audio in Chch, BASS in Auckland, and SLAP in Welly are my instant recomendations as I work with them to bring soundoffs to the public

[Monster_Magnet]

Quoting RMS to people usually has a negative effect on people as most take MAX as law so thats why I state max figures.

I told him what my system was becasue that is what i replaced my old audio with and it was like goijng from brass to gold

Yeah I held a record (only one for a few weeks haha) with IASCA for my two 1st generation Sony Xplode 10" Subs in 2002 and competed in many CANZ sound offs and audio clarity events as well.

P.S I have never had a pair of 6x9's i had a pair of Boschman 5x7's becasue they went into the factory holes. I was warned off 6x9's by a few people telling me that but havn't owned any to know what they mean are the good or crap??

[DeeCee]

its misleading to state Max power outputs when suggesting power to noobs because the max power handling of equipment is near the point of failure or expected failure. Safe running figures such as RMS is what you should be suggesting.. not some big willy figure that makes your amp or speakers look like a champ..

6x9s will draw music to the back of the car, unless you like it like that, is not suggested - its like going to a concert and turning your back to the stage..
amplification of the front components while running the rear coaxials is suggested as you have more headroom for transient musical passages in the front speakers and the sound is in front of you, not behind.

you may also encounter increased volume from behind with 6x9s and a sub, its better to look for clarity of music with good volume than something that distorts and sounds like ass.. 6x9s are a good drop in speaker if you have the room and you don't have a sub and want some bass response..

and i use 6" mids with 300wrms power handling.. more than most subs in my front doors.. i'll let you do the math as to what the max handling is for these drivers

[samlloyd]

thats like 10,000w max deecee!!

I used to use all almost all SONY equipment then i heard JVC and changed I get 148.9 Db from two 250watt rms/500 watt max 12 inch subs with 256 watts into each all JVC gear.

Hahahahhaha. Pics or it definatley did not happen

[nmemr2]

well thanks for all this so far
im not that much of a noob with sounds
i have 2 500wrms 12"subs (lanzar) atm but the sound quality isnt the best, i am really looking to get really good gear that will greatly increase the sound quality and hopefully the total SPL as well. so who makes a great sounding loud sub?
also components for the front seem like a popular option but whats the best brands and models?
and as for the 6x9"s i have custom boxes in the small space available behind the seat in my mr2 that have a built in seperate compartment for 6x9"s so apart from rebuilding the boxes altogether i think i might stick with them for now

[DeeCee]

thats like 10,000w max deecee!!

I used to use all almost all SONY equipment then i heard JVC and changed I get 148.9 Db from two 250watt rms/500 watt max 12 inch subs with 256 watts into each all JVC gear.

Hahahahhaha. Pics or it definatley did not happen

haha - anyway.. the db rating could be a bit high - seems that it wuold have been recorded on the old audio control (AC) mics.. which are 5-7 db higher than the termlab mics. Also, the db is dependent on the build and design of the box, how the air flows within the cabin and port tuning/velocity. Its possible, but only on the old AC mics.. not the new termlab mics

[Monster_Magnet]

I know about sound staging etc from when i was with canz that really helps with points I already have 6inch 2 ways would you recomend maybe 6.5 inch instead of getting 6x9's I need more volume and clearer sound as these are pathetic for some reason. They were only brought for back fill but it sound to weak have run all new wiring from head unit to speakers and am using correct guage wire but still it sounds like a tweeter in a cave compared to the rest of the car even when you adjust it back I think there just crap there not the same series as the components in the front. Might have something to do with it.

[DeeCee]

lets start a new thread and sort out your system.. better than cluttering up this system. Also, provide equipment list with current equipment so that i can understand what you are running..

we'll do this for everyone so that they can see the step by step on how to setup the sound in their car's better

[DeeCee]

well thanks for all this so far
im not that much of a noob with sounds
i have 2 500wrms 12"subs (lanzar) atm but the sound quality isnt the best, i am really looking to get really good gear that will greatly increase the sound quality and hopefully the total SPL as well. so who makes a great sounding loud sub?
also components for the front seem like a popular option but whats the best brands and models?
and as for the 6x9"s i have custom boxes in the small space available behind the seat in my mr2 that have a built in seperate compartment for 6x9"s so apart from rebuilding the boxes altogether i think i might stick with them for now

apologies for the noob comment.. it was more towards other people who are starting to learn more about car audio and what they should expect.

i would suggest that you aim for good musicality with increased volume - anything over 135 db will give you serious hearing damage.. my friends and i currently run 2500wrms into a couple of fusion powerplants and we get 145db - it literally feels sickening afterwards (headaches, nausea etc).. so i'd suggest you take the easier road on this.

what boxes are you using for the subs and what amp is running them?
ah - MR2.. there are some good threads about audio in an MR2 around this catagory - do a quick search and see what you come up with

[nmemr2]

yes i have seen a few threads about mr2 audio but nothing that really tells me what to but, im looking at products and quality rather than what i can fit into my mr2, i already know what i can fit as i have custom made boxes etc.

ok then, i have a clarion head unit, unsure on the model number but it puts out a respectable 54wX4, removeable face, blue backlight if that helps any. that goes out to the 2X6.5" sony coaxial speakers which run at 40wrms and are mounted by the factory mounts down the front of the door. also from the head unit, 2 sets of rca going to 2 amps, first is the sony 2X125w which is taking care of the 6X9"s, again sony, i think its about 140wrms but im not too sure on that one, the other amp is a lanzar thing, not too sure on the specs but i think its 1000wX2 which goes to 2 lanzar 12" 1000wmax subs.

[nmemr2]

as far as max db goes, i seldom have the system cranked so am not too worried about how 145Db kinda thing makes me feel, its more to have the option of it and maybe a few comps to come, who knows

[DeeCee]

run your front speakers off the amps, and find the amp model - i'm doubting on the 1000w x 2 of the lanzar

look at flicking the 6x9s and moving the caoxials to the back or keep 6x9s if you like the sound and flick the coaxials.

get some front components and power them off the amp with the tweeters mounted higher, firing across to the opposite passenger

[Blackrazor]

MonsterMagnet, if you can get 148.9dB on an official microphone, with a couple of JVC subs getting 256w each, and have credible witnesses to the event, i will drink a cockroach milkshake, get DC to film it and post it up here for all to see. I think the cockroaches are pretty safe.

NMEMR2, whereabouts are you located? Because i'm currently doing a competition install on my MR2 so if you're in the South Island you're welcome to have a perve when i'm in your area... and Ian from Pauls Car Audio in Christchurch has a very nicely done MR2 as well

Up north, i dont personally know of any really nice MR2 audio cars, but i can tell you for absolute certainty that the best thing you can do is use the smallest amount of gear you can to do the job, using the highest quality units you can afford. The MR2 has such a small cabin that loud bass output will almost take care of itself, you'll only need one decent 10" and you'll be fine. Just make sure you spend up as much as you can on your front components, forget your rears, and make sure you have plenty of power on tap, and you'll be set

[MINTFX]

MonsterMagnet, if you can get 148.9dB on an official microphone, with a couple of JVC subs getting 256w each, and have credible witnesses to the event, i will drink a cockroach milkshake, get DC to film it and post it up here for all to see. I think the cockroaches are pretty safe

Comeon you cant turn that offer down

As for using MAX watt over RMS is stupid (No offence). Sort of like saying my car has 200hp when it only has half that (Or not far off).

[nmemr2]

NMEMR2, whereabouts are you located? Because i'm currently doing a competition install on my MR2 so if you're in the South Island you're welcome to have a perve when i'm in your area... and Ian from Pauls Car Audio in Christchurch has a very nicely done MR2 as well

Up north, i dont personally know of any really nice MR2 audio cars, but i can tell you for absolute certainty that the best thing you can do is use the smallest amount of gear you can to do the job, using the highest quality units you can afford. The MR2 has such a small cabin that loud bass output will almost take care of itself, you'll only need one decent 10" and you'll be fine. Just make sure you spend up as much as you can on your front components, forget your rears, and make sure you have plenty of power on tap, and you'll be set

well im up in auckland unfortunately but would be keen to have a look so i might send a mate down there to get some pictures for me,

i havent seen many (any) other mr2s with anything resembling a decent sound system around here, its a bit of a pity really but hey if it makes me more individual i like it
i am definetly looking at keeping it simple and as tidy as i can manage, is there any advantage to having all the equiptment closer together, what i mean is, if i were to move the amp from beneath the passengers seat to the boot, would the lengths of cable reduce power of sound quality?

also i have had a look see and, as no-one has actually told me the brand or model to look at i had a good long chat with the guy in the car audio place, i have seen a bunch of rockford gear i like, namely the subs. does anyone like/have anything against rockford stuff that i should know about. and as far as components go i am totally lost, i have no idea what to look for, my mate just bought some good fusion ones, i am yet to hear them in action though but im not a big fan of fusion. any tips on what to look for in components

[Blackrazor]

if i were to move the amp from beneath the passengers seat to the boot, would the lengths of cable reduce power of sound quality?

Not if you keep the cables thick enough. If in doubt, always use cables one size larger than what you 'need', so that you've always got a bit of headroom

i have seen a bunch of rockford gear i like, namely the subs. does anyone like/have anything against rockford stuff that i should know about. and as far as components go i am totally lost, i have no idea what to look for, my mate just bought some good fusion ones, i am yet to hear them in action though but im not a big fan of fusion. any tips on what to look for in components

Rockford and Fusion make some nice gear, but are definately 'middle of the road' products. They're great for people who want their system to look great or all be of one brand, but if you're just after maximum sound quality then your best bet is to mix and match from higher end brands... as thats usually not any more expensive, but you end up with a better result.

If you let me know what you were hoping to budget for your system, i can make some sort of recommendation

[DeeCee]

Auckland eh? Well there is the soundoff at Botany AutoSound and Security (BASS) on the 8th.. which reminds me.. i really should advertise it..