AVS S5 battery backup

[Jazza]

Is it a requirement to use the battery backup? I am looking at putting one on my track car (which will also be a daily as i dont drive alot) but it has a battery kill switch so obviously the alarm will be going off a fair bit in its standard form

[XS1V]

Hi Jazzza

If you want it to be a five star alarm it will need to have the battery back up siren, if it isnt there it will only be a three star alarm. In the race car you can just wire the power wires to the battery side of the kill switch with no worries.

Regards
Brad

[Jazza]

So - The s3 is basically the same as the s5 except the battery backup?

Basically what i want, is the alarm system, the tilt sensor, but i dont want to/cant be arsed rewiring a battery backup into the kill switch, and with the battery inside the car - its kind of pointless me even having one (Battery relocated behind passenger seat).

Tilt sensor is for wheel theft as car wont be garaged alot of the time - is the tilt sensor reliable? Can you do sales directly Brad? If so, wanna PM your mobile number and ill shoot a box of beer your way for a good deal And tell pete to call me back about my wheels -.- lol

[Bling]

Hi Jazzza

If you want it to be a five star alarm it will need to have the battery back up siren, if it isnt there it will only be a three star alarm. In the race car you can just wire the power wires to the battery side of the kill switch with no worries.

Regards
Brad

What requirements make a 4 star alarm? I understood that the difference between 4 and 5 star was the battery backup. Reason I ask is that I have a '4 star' alarm but you're saying its only a 3 if it doesn't have the battery backup? Unless this only applies to the AVS range?

[XS1V]

For it to be a four star it only needs a siren of any type. If you remove the siren its a three star alarm which it what will have to happen if you dont want a battery back up siren going off when no power is connected.

Standards are applied for anyone wishing to comply hence AVS is no different than any other brand. If we want an alarm to be star rated it needs to meet or exceed certain requirements, we just choose to exceed these in all most all cases

Brad

[Obsessive]

Solution: Opt for a 5 Star alarm which has a digital battery back-up siren. There is no over-ride key to worry about and the siren knows if the alarm is armed or disarmed. That way if you disconnent the battery whilst the alarm is disarmed the siren will not go off.

The Autowatch 446RLi Premium has a Digital Battery back-up siren as well as anything made by Cobra or Toad to name but a couple. These products comply with Thatcham standards form the UK. Basically anything Thatcham Cat 1 is instantly a NZSA 5 Star and above as Euro standards are more advanced than here in humble NZ.

Feel welcome to contact me if you have any questions.

[Jazza]

Solved - but to answer the last post.

Alarms for a track whore which will be road regod. If i drive it down the road, stop it, turn it off, ill be taking the kill switch (the red twisty variety thats removable) with me. EVERYTHING is wired manually, including fans etc, so if i was to use a battery backup, it would go off every time i hit my kill switch the alarm would go off...

[Obsessive]

That would be true with a traditional battery back up siren, but if the alarm is disarmed then it would not happen if you had a "Digital" battery back-up siren.

It will only go off if

a: the alarm is armed
b: the alarm is triggered or the battery is disconnected


The other way to get around this (so you still have a working alarm when the kill switch is "open") is to connect the 12v power supply of the alarm before the kill switch. This is probably the best way to go as far as security is concerned.

[Jazza]

But when i hit the kill switch doesnt it technically "disconnect" the battery?

[Bling]

Nah just have a power feed direct from the battery to the alarm brain. So have it seperate to the kill switch completely. So as long as theres a battery sitting the the car, it will power the alarm / no issues.

[Obsessive]

Not if your 12 Volt feed for your alarm is picked up on the battery side of the Kill switch. This would be fine even for a track car so long as you put a fuse in place to protect the feed.

The central locking will not work (if you have O/E CDL on the car) but you would still have door, boot and bonnet protection as well any other sensors which the alarm comes with, plus siren and hazard out-put would still work.

I've done this to cars in the past and it works on most without any issues. I have a reasonable understanding of alarms as I've been installing for 11 years now and have my own company so feel welcome to contact me. Advice is free and you won't get a hard sale as I'm in Wellington!

[Jazza]

Thanks for the replies. Think im understanding it a tad better now. Just gotta wait till pay day next week and then teh car will be regod, certed, insured and then comes the alarm.

[Bling]

I'd do the alarm first TBH, unless the cars pretty secure. But then I do worry too much sometimes

[Jazza]

Locked, with a wheel clamp, with a kill switch, with the keys on ME at all times, in a locked and alarmed garage, also blocked in by a holden ute. It aint going anywhere

[Bling]

Hahahaha good effort!

My point is not valid then