Help on fixing small(ish) problem

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Help on fixing small(ish) problem

Postby fuzzylogic » Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:48 pm

my battery for my 4age doesnt seem to be charging ie. if i run it for a while especially at night(lights on), turn it off then try and turn it back on again, it wont start. the sound is as if the battery is completed dead ie. no sparks. i have to manually charge it with a battery charger. i'm pretty sure its the alternator. i just want someone to confirm... cheer... also how much will an alternator for my engine cost and is it hard to replace?
fuzzylogic
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 31
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 12:06 pm

Postby jondee86 » Sun Apr 18, 2004 11:37 pm

Hiya.... if the alternator is not charging, and you drive at night, you should notice the lights getting dimmer and dimmer, and the battery warning light should be on. Eventually, there won't be enough voltage to run the electrics and the car will just slow down and die :cry:

But if the lights are bright and all the electrics (indicators, wipers etc) are working normally, then it's a safe bet the alternator is charging. Cheers...

jondee86
1984 AE86 Corolla GT Liftback, NZ new... now with GZE
spec small port, twinscrew s/c and water/methanol injection :)

Watch this space >>> <<<
User avatar
jondee86
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 903
Joined: Mon Aug 18, 2003 11:08 pm
Location: Wellington

Postby Bling » Sun Apr 18, 2004 11:45 pm

tried a new battery, i had similar issues, it was the battey at fault,
User avatar
Bling
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 15990
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 9:02 pm
Location: Quake City

Postby Rumad » Mon Apr 19, 2004 3:31 am

Any auto electrician should be able to do a free battery test for u...just drive in and ask :) that would be my guess, but if u have a multimeter handy, switch it to "12vdc" and connect it across your battery terminals with the car running with all accessories on...it should read between "13vdc" to "14.4vdc". Anything outside these ranges in either direction means u will need to get your alternator looked at....if so, get in touch with me, i can prolly do it cheap for ya ;)
Rumad
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 112
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2004 11:42 pm
Location: Auckland

Postby fuzzylogic » Mon Apr 19, 2004 11:37 am

yeah, the thing is the voltmeter on my car reads below 14v. its about 12v even when the engine is running. i'm aware that it should read about 14 while running so i just wanna confirm that it is the alternator that needs replacing... how much will it cost to get it done?
fuzzylogic
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 31
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 12:06 pm

Postby Loudtoy » Mon Apr 19, 2004 7:11 pm

fuzzylogic wrote:yeah, the thing is the voltmeter on my car reads below 14v. its about 12v even when the engine is running. i'm aware that it should read about 14 while running so i just wanna confirm that it is the alternator that needs replacing... how much will it cost to get it done?


I'd try and find a second hand alternator off someone who's wreckingone if i was you! Altrenators can be anywhere from $80 to about 350 to repair depending on what it is thats wrong with it! If you really think it's your alternator ( i doubt it i'l explaing shortly) take it off the car and down to your nearest auto sparky and they will test it for you!

Now the reason i doubt it is your alternator is
one - no charge light isn't coming up
two - your car actually runs fine once it's started
three - if your alternator was stuffed you wouldn't get any reading above 6 or so volts while it was running, which wouldn't be for very long if your alternator wasn't keeping things going. Also the voltmeters on the cars aren't always 100% accurate just normally pretty close!

Only know all this because my gf's starlie had the alternator crap out on it about a month ago and it wouldn't run very long without the alternator charging, once the battery was fully charged ( on a charger) it would run for about 10 minutes before just dying!
Also her car before that which had a crook battery ran sweet but if you turned it of and tried to start it again straight after there wasn't enough juice left in the thing to do it!
TS Member sine 2001

Prado To tow stuff with
NZ Ae82 GT Liftback for gravel fun
Rodeo to do work stuff in
Big Ass Trailer to put stuff on
Car no 16 in a long line of less than ilustrious automobiles
User avatar
Loudtoy
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1833
Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2002 9:26 pm
Location: In a ditch, watch for triangle!!

Postby slonlo » Mon Apr 19, 2004 7:14 pm

dose it wind over at all or just click when you try and start it
could be a dodge concetion to the starter
'89 LiteACE van
User avatar
slonlo
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 377
Joined: Tue May 21, 2002 1:02 pm
Location: South Auckland

Postby wde_bdy » Mon Apr 19, 2004 11:36 pm

jondee86 wrote:Hiya.... if the alternator is not charging, and you drive at night, you should notice the lights getting dimmer and dimmer, and the battery warning light should be on. Eventually, there won't be enough voltage to run the electrics and the car will just slow down and die :cry:

But if the lights are bright and all the electrics (indicators, wipers etc) are working normally, then it's a safe bet the alternator is charging. Cheers...

jondee86


Not quite right, the warning light only tells you if the alternator is actually charging. It does not tell you if the car is using more than the alternator is putting out. The warning light will not come on basically until the motor stops. An ammeter is very useful for letting you know the state of your charging system, negative means you are using more than your alternator is producing (in my case due to 400 watts of spotlights, foglights and a stereo setup).

Callum
User avatar
wde_bdy
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2704
Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 11:43 pm
Location: Gisborne

Postby matt dunn » Tue Apr 20, 2004 12:22 am

Loudtoy wrote:
Now the reason i doubt it is your alternator is
one - no charge light isn't coming up
two - your car actually runs fine once it's started
three - if your alternator was stuffed you wouldn't get any reading above 6 or so volts while it was running, which wouldn't be for very long if your alternator wasn't keeping things going. Also the voltmeters on the cars aren't always 100% accurate just normally pretty close!



I am an auto sparky and so can say..

The alt light will not always come on when the alternater shitz itself and on these toyota tpye it is actually very common for the light to not come on as the regulator stuffs up.
Most cars will run fine once the car has started with no alt running as the battery will have more than enough power to run the car even though it wont have anywhere near enough to start it.
And for your info a fully charged battery sitting there may only read 12.5v and a dead flat battery may still read as high as 12.0v as a voltmeter is not an indication of how charged a battery is.
If you get less than 13v at the battery when the car is running then it is not charging.
matt dunn
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 7109
Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2003 1:01 am
Location: Timaru

Postby fuzzylogic » Tue Apr 20, 2004 4:57 pm

dont worry guys fixed it... cheers for all ur responses. ran all day today no problems...
fuzzylogic
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 31
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 12:06 pm

Postby matt dunn » Tue Apr 20, 2004 7:49 pm

fuzzylogic wrote:dont worry guys fixed it... cheers for all ur responses. ran all day today no problems...


So how did you fix it? What was the problem in the end?
matt dunn
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 7109
Joined: Fri Sep 12, 2003 1:01 am
Location: Timaru

Postby fuzzylogic » Tue Apr 20, 2004 10:09 pm

just the alterntor. it was completely burnt out. the plastic things holding the brushes were melted and the brushes were burnt. whole thing was $&#$%.
fuzzylogic
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 31
Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 12:06 pm


Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 66 guests