buying gtz anything specific i should out out for with them?

[event2]

just found a gtz tureno i wanna buy i thinks its a 91. any tips on inspecting them b4 buying? its got 155 kms onit wants $4500

what should i look out for?

[Volatile]

from my experience, of looking for one then deciding the s/c is a POS

watch for belt slipage

blue/black smoke, the ones i have seen seem to overfuel and run rich

if the S/c hasn't been maintained (eg changing the oil) you could be in for some big bils

it may seem fast in first instance but try taking it to redline (no power) then drive a b16a2 equiped honda and understand useable power all the way up to redline, not from 2000rpm - 5500rpm where it hurts you in wheel spin from take off.

THEY do have a good amount of torque low down - sometimes good/bad

if it's got super strut suspension get it check it often stuffs out.


all the good ones are TURBO'D just depends if you have the time for it or not

good luck

[aesc]

I would just check for normal things as you would with any car.

If its an AE101 then thoroughly check the Super Strut set up; listen for knocking noises and get underneath to make sure everythings tight.

Check Supercharger oil level, and it should be clean. Belt slippage is NOT a big issue. Check engine oil level, chances are that this wont be clean (normal). Black smoke with these are normal ive been told so nothing to worry about. Blue smoke is more concerning

Toyotas are pretty much bulletproof, and there are plenty of GTZs with higher kms and still going strong.

This Volatile guys obviously a honda driver. These things smoke b16s, until 120km/h that is until the race is all over anyway!!

[Volatile]

I could make stupid statements like “this guys is a Toyota driver" but I won't

Have you ever been in say a genuine 1992 Honda civic SIR, manual b16a2? I seriously doubt it.

How many ae101 levins/trueno's s/c not turbo, have run sub 15's quarters?

And what are you on about the race is over at 120km? And what kind of racing are you talking about?

I was just stating the truth and my person experience and disappointment with 4agze's as well as comparing them to a similar motor, that actually produces the power stated and in fact more power than a 4agze, not to mention being Naturally Aspirated

I don't dispute your statement about Toyota’s generally being exceptional vehicles and highly reliable I have owned both a Toyota and a Honda


anyway this is off topic

[Fred]

i am an owner of a sub 15s 4agze it however is not a ae101, and i have to agree with the honda power being pretty impressive, the gtz pulls hard down low and then is crap to get to the redline, my mate has an rsi that does 14.73 compared to my 14.69. wish my car wud pull hard all the way to redline, it dies down at about 7 and is not even worth goin all the way to75 on the strip.

[event2]

it has a boost gauge will that give me an indication of condition of s/c? wats the factory boost?

its my mates its well maitained jst fitted al new belts and filters. and i think he mite of done the s/c oil a while ago but the owner b4 gave it a hard time.

i gonan do a compression test on it at work and get it up on the hoist in the weekend. whats there compression ratio?

[TRDWGN]

My Mates GTZ wagon would most definitely blitz any relatively standard B16A, it does not seem to suffer any noticeable power loss in the higher rev's, however it has a decent cold air box, larger IC and an overdrive pulley

Having said that, i have had a number of turbos and NA's, I am building up what will (hopefully!!) be a fairly hardcore AE82 GT but i can asure you a TypeR Integra is gonna be in my garage one of these days Fun is all about having a decent all round package that has a usable rev range and there simply isn't a toyota that compares to any similar Honda, Civic pips the Corolla, Integra pips the Celica, and so on and so on.....

and then there is the S2000

[event2]

yea so anyway screw the dam honda back to the topic

[aesc]

yea so anyway screw the dam honda back to the topic

Yes very true. How'd hondas even get into this topic anyway??

Yeah the boost gauge could give you an indication of condition, should be around 8-10 pounds.

Compression ratio is 8.9:1 but if you do a test I think its in PSI so it doesnt relate? Anyway, as long as all 4 cylinders are relatively even in compression its all good.