Help no idle URGENT HELP

Nuty|Mike · Post by **Nuty|Mike** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 10:49 pm

hey only 3 or so days till trackday the aw is running like shit not idling at all it starts revs up then just dies anyone have any ideas diag codes bring up AFm but im on my 3rd afm so far and still same problem so e tested every wire coming out of afm and all seems good any ideas would be appreciated need this car for trackday !!!!!!!!!!!
ps also any ecu's i can test with just incase mine is bung :/

Nuty|Mike · Post by **Nuty|Mike** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 9:19 am

any ideas guys cumon need help now wellyesterday

Silent Knight · Post by **Silent Knight** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 11:52 am

has the car ever run correctly or is this just a problem that has arrised just now?

if so have you change anything since it's been running sweet?

www.mods.co.nz · Post by **www.mods.co.nz** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 12:09 pm

Hey mate, my levin S/C did the same thing I tried everything then my mate checked my TPS (throttle position sensor) and it was not set right.
Now my car runs mint as.
Might help aye

KinLoud · Post by **KinLoud** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 12:59 pm

throttle position sensor
OR
idle air valve - on 20v there are tubes going to each intake just after each throttle. these tubes connect together and go to the idle controller valve. is the valve connected up. is the wiring ok?

Ken
Taupo
021 408 863

85AW20v · Post by **85AW20v** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 9:40 pm

Bring your car on a trailer and check it against mine if you want Mike. I don't have any problems at all.

85AW20v · Post by **85AW20v** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 10:05 pm

Been having another think about it. Mine did the same thing when I first fitted it. I'm sure problem was that the circuit opening relay wasn't keeping the fuel pump running or the circuit opening relay wasn't staying open. Can't quite remember how we fixed it - could have been a separate feed to the fuel pump so the pump started as soon as the key was turned on and kept on running. I know that we also earthed a wire from the AFM. Just went and had a look - its white/black trace with brown paint circles and comes from the top layer of pins in the AFM plug. 2nd or 3rd from the right looking at the pins. Hope this helps.

Nuty|Mike · Post by **Nuty|Mike** » Sat Jun 05, 2004 12:54 am

well the y guys have been fiddling with it and well it goes

dont kno how but it does thank gosd for good friends see u all down there hy simonmr220v u gonna race or be there be good to see another mr20v conversion

85AW20v · Post by **85AW20v** » Sat Jun 05, 2004 9:02 am

No won't be racing but I'll be coming out for a look. Had Taupo dual car sprints a couple of weeks ago, Toyspeed is this weekend, Targa Dash next weekend, then there's another private hire day on 21 June and then Taupo Clubmans winter series on the 27. So thought I'd better save some money!!

FLAWLES · Post by **FLAWLES** » Sat Jun 05, 2004 9:28 am

just to infrom there is also another track day at taupo on the 13th

but going back to this hole idol thing mmy gtz does the opitsit start it up and the revs shoot up to 3000rpm then slowly come down then bouncis between 1000 and 1300
it started to happen when we put the new s/c on tried to iron it out with my after market ecu but no go it only does it when its cold

what u reckon the cold start injector??? or tps??

85AW20v · Post by **85AW20v** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 12:06 pm

Don't know what you had to do to put the SC on but if the had to drain the coolant out you could have air in the lines. On a SC MR2 there are 3 bleed points you need to be a ware of - don't know about your GTZ.

FLAWLES · Post by **FLAWLES** » Sun Jun 06, 2004 3:00 pm

as far as i can remember you do not have to drain the water "air rises to the highest point hence this is why the radiator sits higher than the engine"but yea i dnt think it is this but i will double check tho