Newbie, help with 20V turbo build

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Newbie, help with 20V turbo build

Postby JRCOZY » Mon Jun 21, 2004 10:55 pm

hay guys, yeah i tried search and i couldnt find much info, sorry if its already been talked about a million times.
i havnt had much experience with toyotas before, im usually with the mazdas but im trying to build a project car for a mate of mine.

we have a 4AGZE engine to start with, going to turbo it, but i am wanting to use a head off the 20 valve engine.
anyone got advice for this, are the cam gears the same? so if i swap the head will the ZE belt work with the 20V cam gears.
being a quad throttle set up, will it handle boost?
i just want to know any of the problems that you can come accross when trying to use the 20V head on the older ZE engine, not worried about wiring as that wont be standard anyway.

thanks heaps guys, i hope you can help me out.
1990 Ford Laser TX3
JR-COZY
10.79@217kph
379kw at the wheels, Sponsored by:
MRP LTD - Manon Racing Products
User avatar
JRCOZY
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 87
Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 10:28 pm
Location: Auckland, NZ

Postby Linz » Tue Jun 22, 2004 1:57 am

Ring mike lynn at the turbo shop dunedin 4 darrel munrores ph no he has a built 20v turbo motor for sale and ready to go 4 decent $
Linz
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 36
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 10:32 pm
Location: dunedin

Postby lost » Tue Jun 22, 2004 2:52 pm

He's from north shore so I doubt that's gonna work, plus he said hes got the engine.

I think the verdict is that the 20v intake isn't so good, its preferred to switch to an older 4age's (redtop?) intake. I don't know what specific parts you planned on using from the 4agze, but most will suggest that unless your keen to use the 20v head for originality factor, it's better to just use the whole 4agze setup (correct me if I'm wrong). Depends what you're after though.

Hope this helps. Cam
Octopus Thingy~!
User avatar
lost
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 53
Joined: Sat Oct 18, 2003 12:56 pm

Postby Silent Knight » Tue Jun 22, 2004 3:58 pm

ah just get some solder wire mate you'll be fine :wink: :wink: :wink:
Image
User avatar
Silent Knight
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 6188
Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2003 12:30 am
Location: 'Save the Whale Foundation'

Postby EVLGTZ » Tue Jun 22, 2004 4:16 pm

lost wrote:He's from north shore so I doubt that's gonna work, plus he said hes got the engine.

I think the verdict is that the 20v intake isn't so good, its preferred to switch to an older 4age's (redtop?) intake. I don't know what specific parts you planned on using from the 4agze, but most will suggest that unless your keen to use the 20v head for originality factor, it's better to just use the whole 4agze setup (correct me if I'm wrong). Depends what you're after though.

Hope this helps. Cam


actually the 20v intake is pretty darn good just a lil harder to setup. Best to talk to Nick (mister2) as he runs a 20v turbo setup and pretty sure he uses the 20v intake setup.
EVLGTZ
Ex 4AGTE AE101 Levin - 13.3@173km/hr
Ex BPT BFMR Familia - 13.8@168km/hr
Ex 4AGZE AE82 - 14.2@163km/hr

Current - 2000 Toyota Caldina GT, 2008 Ford Territory FPV
User avatar
EVLGTZ
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2347
Joined: Fri May 17, 2002 10:05 pm
Location: On the rocks

Postby RedMist » Tue Jun 22, 2004 4:39 pm

The redtop smallport is a better engine for NA work, as the ports are small and velocity is actually better than the 20 valve.
However the 20 valve has much larger valve surface area and should make a better turbo candidate. Especially the blacktop which has sygnificantly bigger exhaust ports.

The cam gears can be exchanged on the exhaust side. And you won't have any belt issues. You won't be able to remove the VVT pulley and replace it with a 16 valve vernier as it's spaced differently and has an oil gallery feeding into the back of it. TRD make a vernier that fits.

Nick, RedQueen is the person to contact in regards to this, however don't take his advice on running a car without oil ;-)
The answer is Helmholtz!

Toyota ST185 Celica Rally.
Toyota ST205 Celica Rally.
Jimco/ Cosworth 350z Offroader - 609whp at 16psi
User avatar
RedMist
Old Skool User!
 
Posts: 3078
Joined: Tue May 21, 2002 12:39 pm
Location: Christchurch

Postby vvega » Tue Jun 22, 2004 6:18 pm

dunno bout swapping the exhaust cams
im fairly shore we tried that with varied success
i use the 20v cambelt i think its 1 tooth longer
mutltipuel throttle bodys are harder to tun to but you sould have no problems

the airbox...well himm
mine exploded ?%?$?&?%
so yeah if ya gunna use it just be a little caeful
though i think that was @ 1.4 bar

side feed injectors from a dt185 (440cc) drop strait in

v
vvega
 

Postby 10k 20v » Tue Jun 22, 2004 7:43 pm

the exhaust timing between the 20v and 16v cam pulley is different
Image
User avatar
10k 20v
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 959
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 6:32 pm
Location: PUKEKOHE

Postby JRCOZY » Tue Jun 22, 2004 8:35 pm

k well we have an old style 4AGZE,
wanting to ditch the charger and go turbo, but just to add to it, a cheap 20 valve head has come up, want to use the 20V head on the ZE short block (im guessn the ZE is a shit load stonger as its made for boost) and run a turbo with lnik management to keep it all under control.
yes it would be easier to get the older 4AGE intake and just have a simple throttle body set up, but the 20V quad throttle turbo sounded like such a mean idea.
so its possible to bolt the head on but theres no way to run it as a cam belt wont fit? if i keep the 20V pullys and use a 20V belt then surely that would work with the ZE bottom end???
1990 Ford Laser TX3
JR-COZY
10.79@217kph
379kw at the wheels, Sponsored by:
MRP LTD - Manon Racing Products
User avatar
JRCOZY
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 87
Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 10:28 pm
Location: Auckland, NZ

Postby vvega » Tue Jun 22, 2004 10:05 pm

vvega wrote:i use the 20v cambelt i think its 1 tooth longer


v


good to see you read the help your givin :S
vvega
 

Postby JRCOZY » Tue Jun 22, 2004 10:50 pm

sorry man, im only trying to learn, give me a break

so its one tooth longer? wouldnt that mean that its not going to work??? wont be in time, this is confusing me, just need a straight answer to if its going to work or not.
1990 Ford Laser TX3
JR-COZY
10.79@217kph
379kw at the wheels, Sponsored by:
MRP LTD - Manon Racing Products
User avatar
JRCOZY
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 87
Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 10:28 pm
Location: Auckland, NZ

Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Jun 23, 2004 12:37 am

Probably best to give Speedtech a call...I have a feeling they might know how to build an ok 20v 4AGTE :lol:
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby 10k 20v » Wed Jun 23, 2004 6:57 pm

it will work, it's a bolt on job with minor differnet things you have to change.
Image
User avatar
10k 20v
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 959
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 6:32 pm
Location: PUKEKOHE

Postby vvega » Wed Jun 23, 2004 7:15 pm

not tring to be a c**t but if you get confused this early in the peice this whole endevor might be a little much


its not a hard conversion
bolt on the compleat 20v head cams pullys and al
use the 20v headstudsl
use the 20v cam belt it will fit strait on
and whala 20v conversion done

next

v
vvega
 

Postby NZ_AE86 » Wed Jun 23, 2004 7:27 pm

vvega is right, it is a straight foward job, bolt the head on and use the 20v belt, job done! Make up exhaust and intake manifolds and intercooler piping, wire link, tune and drive!!
User avatar
NZ_AE86
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 972
Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 6:02 pm
Location: Wellington

Postby 4ageturbs » Wed Jun 23, 2004 8:39 pm

I was told that the valves in the silvertop were made out of weak metal as toyota was trying to cut costs, oh wel trial and era.
User avatar
4ageturbs
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 37
Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2004 7:11 pm
Location: auckland

Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Jun 24, 2004 11:04 am

valves in the silvertop were made out of weak metal


most 20v valve train failures iv heard of are to do with the retainers breaking.
Being the subject of E-whinges since 2004 8)

http://www.centralmotorsport.org.nz/home

Image
User avatar
Mr Revhead
SECURITY!
 
Posts: 24635
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 4:06 pm
Location: Nelson

Postby JRCOZY » Thu Jun 24, 2004 7:03 pm

cool its been said now whats needed, simple as.
i can do all that but now im thinking that there may be another problem.

as its a 20 valve head with 5 valves per cyl, and the ZE is a 16V, wont the ZE pistons only have 4 indents on the top unlike the 20V ones that have 5?
just wondering if this would cause a problem, and if it does, are the ZE pistons that much stonger than the 20V ones anyway? they must be slightly stronger.
1990 Ford Laser TX3
JR-COZY
10.79@217kph
379kw at the wheels, Sponsored by:
MRP LTD - Manon Racing Products
User avatar
JRCOZY
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 87
Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2004 10:28 pm
Location: Auckland, NZ

Postby 10k 20v » Thu Jun 24, 2004 7:29 pm

all that means is your engine will become an interference engine meaning your valve will hit the pistons if you don't correctly time it or the cambelt breaks.
They will not touch if you set up the cams properly.

P.s. I know all about the retainers breaking. Damn trd for not making them anymore.
Image
User avatar
10k 20v
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 959
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2003 6:32 pm
Location: PUKEKOHE

Postby 4ageturbs » Sat Jun 26, 2004 11:06 am

they are non-interference arn't they
User avatar
4ageturbs
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 37
Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2004 7:11 pm
Location: auckland

Next

Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 5 guests