VVT light

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Postby Blkwinter » Mon Jul 12, 2004 3:22 pm

Dam the jokes on me *punches self in face*.
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Postby boyracer69 » Mon Jul 12, 2004 9:29 pm

Talk about drink fuel, i reckon i have a hole in my tank :lol:
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Postby Bling » Mon Jul 12, 2004 9:43 pm

Boyracer69, maybe if you stopped trying to BBQ my car with ya exhaust flames you might find it more economical :wink:
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Postby JT » Mon Jul 12, 2004 11:02 pm

AceSniper wrote:agh, VVT dosnt turn on at 4500rpm it turns on when the engine is upto temp and u put ur foot down (around 60% +)
so the dyno of vvt coming on at 4500 is quite random depends on the temp and were ya foot is.
where the switch helps is that xtra bit up high after the ecu turns it off at redline and when u take your foot off while changing gear ecu will turn off vvt.....


Not having a dig at you but just some general info. I used to think this was the case but honestly it makes no diffference at all. I have time slips to prove this too :) If you need vvt activated when changing gear you obviously need to learn the basics of a gearbox, it comes on instantly when you do a quick change. As for it turning off after ~7500. The difference in 500rpm having vvt on is not worth me writing anymore about.

random fact, it's possible to make vvt work in neutral and also you can go all the way to redline without activating it too (facelift silvertop)
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Postby AceSniper » Tue Jul 13, 2004 1:35 pm

troo iv run 3 ecu's they all use the same system (pre-facelift, facelift, mix of preface and facelift + sard chip)
anyway what I mean "while changing gears" is that it will keep the oil pressure in the pully so its not going on and off wont cut time on 1/4 but it is noticable when the clutch is out and the power is back on. On my facelift ecu the rev limit was 8500 keeping vvt on passed redline keped the engine reving up just as quick as b4 redline, like wise with sard chip at 9000rpm but couse this will very with engines iv seen some that just die at redline.
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Postby HZRDIZ » Mon Aug 02, 2004 7:40 pm

got20v? wrote:i cant remember the exact spec, but u want a resitor thats gonna use up at least 11.3 of those 12 volts.

so....

*goes and thinks*

dammit i cant remember the formula for working out potential dividers

oh well here sthe vvt document again:
(i didnt write this lol no way would i be seen dead in a trueno, and yes it does work for ae111's as well)
Note that the following was carried out on my AE101 Toyota Trueno, Silvertop. I don't know if its applicable to other models.

You'll need:

1 x 5mm LED (any colour should work ok, but will result in slightly different brightnesses when using the same resistor)
1 x 5mm LED holder
1 x 560 Ohm resistor (0.125W or larger)
About 1m of 2 core cable
Heatshrink tubing or insulation tape
Cable ties
Soldering iron and/or small screw terminal connectors

Procedure - Wiring:
Solder wires onto LED legs. Make a note of the longer of the 2 LED legs, as this is 'positive'. Cover with heatshrink tubing to protect from short circuits.
In one of the wires, break it and solder in the 560 Ohm resistor (either wire, doesnt really matter)
Connect positive side of LED (the longer leg) wire to a switched 12V/ignition power source. Any easy place to find this is the back of your stereo
Connect the Negative side of the LED to the VVT output on the ECU's 26 pin connector. This will switch to Gnd when VVT is activated, causing the LED to turn on.
The ECU is located behind the stereo, but I think accessing it from the passenger foot well is the easiest if you pull the panels off on the side. Its a bitch to get at, and I recommend cuting the wire about 10cm back from the ECU and joining into it using screw or crimp terminals as the easiest way. Make sure you reconnect both ends of the wire you cut, otherwise your VVT won't go no more.

Does the ECU happen to be the bunch of wires that is all conected to a pin adaptor by the passengers seat? If so it should be piss easy too do.
Actually come to think of it shouldnt this be plugged in somewhere?[/b]
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Postby rally 'rolla » Tue Aug 03, 2004 11:20 pm

Can someone please clarify which wire it is on a manual black top? cheers
Only the boring die old...
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Postby Bling » Wed Aug 04, 2004 6:34 pm

rally 'rolla wrote:Can someone please clarify which wire it is on a manual black top? cheers


done :)
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Postby HZRDIZ » Fri Aug 06, 2004 6:50 pm

For geeks like me, can someone type up a step by step procedure?
Drinking 42 BELOW Passionfruit Vodka is like walking along the street and seeing this really hot girl and all you can think is "Man, I don't understand how anyone can be gay".
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Postby CozmoNz » Wed Aug 18, 2004 8:12 pm

rally 'rolla wrote:Can someone please clarify which wire it is on a manual black top? cheers


is it the same or what? im assuming you were pmed?

i wanna know too :(
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Postby rally 'rolla » Wed Aug 18, 2004 9:35 pm

Only the boring die old...
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Postby phat_levin » Fri Oct 13, 2006 6:10 pm

JT wrote:Not having a dig at you but just some general info. I used to think this was the case but honestly it makes no diffference at all. I have time slips to prove this too :) If you need vvt activated when changing gear you obviously need to learn the basics of a gearbox, it comes on instantly when you do a quick change. As for it turning off after ~7500. The difference in 500rpm having vvt on is not worth me writing anymore about.

random fact, it's possible to make vvt work in neutral and also you can go all the way to redline without activating it too (facelift silvertop)


ever thought of not moving your right foot from the floor wen changing gears :P
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Postby Bling » Fri Oct 13, 2006 7:30 pm

dude, i've heard of deep sea fishing.....

but fishing up a thread THIS old is just silly :lol:

but to answer your question..... ever thought of not needing to replace gearbox parts frequently :?
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