Light AE111 mods

[HZRDIZ]

Ok I've been looking around for mods to make on the Levin and have come up with a list thats reasonable:
-0.8mm Head
-Aftermarket Trumpets
-Either a big foam pod or normal with induction pipe (i have no idea which is better)
-Change the cams
-Short Shifter
... and so forth

Has anyone done these mods and do they make much diff?

[vvega]

Ok I've been looking around for mods to make on the Levin and have come up with a list thats reasonable:
-0.8mm Head
-Aftermarket Trumpets
-Either a big foam pod or normal with induction pipe (i have no idea which is better)
-Change the cams
-Short Shifter
... and so forth

Has anyone done these mods and do they make much diff?

the stok trumpets suck so thats a good call..been rubber and all :S(what the $&#$% were they thinking)
trd head gasket is a good idea too
a cold air box is good though i have herd of a couple making less power wih them

cams
well
thats a different kettle
20v cams are not as eazy as you might think to play with
youll wnna be really commited before you go spening the big bucks
you very limited with shim sizings
and to be honest i dont really recomend wielding the tops of teh valves unless you know what your doing (please dotn go to franklin cams for this ive seen what they did to 10k 20v's first 20v head and what the results were)

v

[Mr Revhead]

i recenty went for a ride in a b/t ae111 rally car that had the head and cams done by kelford, it also had 12.5:1 pistons in it and a motec ecu, so it was a bit more than 'light' mods, qouted at 180hp atw, i have no idea how credible the power figure is however it really HAULED!

if your planning a tough b/t i strongly recomend replacing the conrods (again not a 'light mod' with ae101 silvertop/4agze conrods as the b/t ones are a lot weaker, hence why the afore mentioned engine now has 2 holes in the block

to get the best out of anything you do you will need a tunable ecu so it can get costly, but they can be made to make huge power.
another apparant weak point is the valve retainers can fail, but i think that happens at 9000plus...... there was a coupla ppl on here a while ago that had that problem

[vvega]

wanna see the video of it happeing :d
its like raaaaaaaaaaaaa pink piunk rattle ratlle oh something just fell in the exhaust

nasty stuff

v

[Mr Revhead]

apparantly this was raaaaaaaaaaaaaa duuuuurrrrrr. then change down to third..... duuurrrrrr 'oh the oil lights on'

[HZRDIZ]

Bugger,
Mr Revhead, what can you offer me in the way of double valve springs, head gasket and trumpets and so forth?

[Mr Revhead]

i can do a head gasket, but thats about it... some one like franklins or kelford should be able to do valve springs etc... a set of 16v ones from those guys is about $200. dunno if they can do 20v ones though, kinda small.

im working with a few ppl to get supply of those parts, but at this stage they are probably the best places.

[atmosports]

20V valve springs are damn hard to get anything other than factory toyota or lightly uprated trd's, been there & tried many sources for them. Try HiTech Motorsport in Pukekohe they have been able to supply Toda?jun 20V springs in the past. As for cams, don't use Franklin's unless you want to lose power & I'm speaking for experience here, seen heaps of their cams that don't work well. My suggestions here would be either Kelfords or perhaps try the same place as valve springs as they get a lot of their own one-off cams ground & probably have a grind of their own suitable or can get a jun/toda set for you.

Trumpets, try Hitech again as they manufacture trumpets & impirt some carbon fibre ones & could probably adapt something they have to fit a 20V, either in Aluminium or steel. You could also make your own, not that difficult

[HZRDIZ]

What benefits is there to having the trumpets? What sort of design would you have to go for to be more effective?

[Rick]

I tried using tumpets, apart from the big increase in induction noise there was no increase in power at all in fact it was worse, the engine didn't seem to want to rev. Your better to remove the rubber intake pipe and air box and replace it with a metal pipe and a pod filter and duct cold air to it.

[strap-on]

now this is a real argued on on these forums, basically from wat i can gather from the info redmist gave me.

is that the trumpets are a certain length and that certain length = the engine is tuned to make maximum power at cetrain point in the rev range.
i think the general rull of thumb is that 7 inches equals 10k rpm, and then for every 1.4 inches ( i think) u add one takes the peak power down 1000 rpm

the stock 20v ones are quite long, so u could replace them with shorter ones to take the point where the engine makes peak power up a little to smooth out the response curve, but remember that those stock trumpets do wonders to improve throttle response

[rallymazda]

if your goin to fiddle the head i recomend you go for TODA components
they makes kits that have everything you need to rebuild the head, you can also buy the bits seperate

if anyone knows a good TODA website the post it up cos ive only been able to find sites in japanese

[CozmoNz]

i recenty went for a ride in a b/t ae111 rally car that had the head and cams done by kelford, it also had 12.5:1 pistons in it and a motec ecu, so it was a bit more than 'light' mods, qouted at 180hp atw, i have no idea how credible the power figure is however it really HAULED!

was talking to the guy who built that car today, or at least one like it (its second in the current 2wd rally), or something like that he said.

runs on avgas... and has every possible setting tweeked, i asked for some simple pointers to make my car quick.

put an ecu in, basicaly, have it setup to use vvt all the time for more power, then do cams, and a bit of head work, thats all you need to get some decent gains.

oh and remove that strut brace *he glaced at me strangely* its utter crap

[strap-on]

have it setup to use vvt all the time for more power,

so in other words..... have adjustable cam gears that constantly have the timign advanced? is this what your saying, cos where im at at the moment i hat the fukn diesel sound my vvt pulley makes and its the same price for a new one that a pair of adjustable cam pullys will cost me so yeah i dunno aye

[Mr Revhead]

the guy who built the car? or the engine.... 2 different ppl.

setting the vvt like that is ok on a competition vehicle... or as mentiones just fit some solid adjustble pulleys.

what kind of strut brace have you got?? how is it crap?

[spencer]

setting the vvt like that is ok on a competition vehicle... or as mentiones just fit some solid adjustble pulleys.

can we get an adjustable cam pulley for our vvt cam mr revhead?I thought these were not made by TRD no more does someone else make em now?

[Mr Revhead]

no TRD dont do them anymore, nor does anyone else im aware of.
but doesnt the normal 4AGE pulleys fit on to the 20v inlet cam? if your doing away with the vvt then you wont need the vvt pulley

[strap-on]

yeah it hink the way it goes is that the vvt pulley basically is just an adjustable cam pulley except the computer adjusts it for you ( i think) dependent on throttle position... load etc etc etc, so cam pulley's woudl just allow you to have the timing advanced constantly ie... vvt always on.


am i rite?

(lol at my ability to turn a statement into a question)

[EVLGTZ]

i can do a head gasket

how much for a 1mm head gasket for good old bluetop 4age?

[Mr Revhead]

sorry, cant do 1mm ones, stock is 1.2mm can do TRD 0.5m or 0.8mm