CAMB01 wrote:A CV joint has nothing to do with the gearbox/clutch problem.
Acutally, they have everything to do with the gearbox and clutch. Any FWD gearbox with an open diff, will spin the wheel with the least traction, and all power will go to that wheel. If you shatter the bearing cage, in the CV housing, then the driveshaft will spin, chew the shit out of the CV bearing housing (hence the clunking and scraping noise), the spider gears in the diff will do their thing, and all power will go to the broken CV, which isn't turning the wheel, hence the car goes nowhere.
Just jump under the car, grab the driveshaft, and give it a good tug. If you still can't tell, put it in gear, and see which side makes the noise.. hey, its not like its gonna get more broken!
It would more than likely have massive play, or have ripped chunks outta the CV boot itself. Its no biggie, I've done it a couple of times in my old Integra, (trying to do full lock burnouts!) I just purchased a complete driveshaft with CVs out of a wrecker, was around $120 from memory (bloody Strongs!).
You need a long, long power bar or muscles for Africa to get the hubnut undone, once you've done that, drop the shock, pull the knackered driveshaft (with CVs) out, replace it with the good one, remember to torque up the hub nut, refit shock, all done. It took me around an hour to do the whole job.
Hope this helps!
Daily driver: Toyota RunX/Toyota Caldina
Ex: 2x AE101, 5x KP60, KP61, EP71, 3x KE70, KE72, AE70, AE82, 2x TE71, AE90, AE92, ST170, plus 11 Hondas, 12 Nissans, 6 Fords, 4 Mazdas, 3 Mitsis, an Isuzu and a Lada!