4age not running, no spark *help*

[AE85.6]

ok as far as i can tell power going to coil and to ignitor but no spark from coil lead at all, so could this still be either of them still ???

[skoty]

Is there power on BOTH sides of the coil??? You havn't snapped your cambelt have you otherwise your dizzy wont be rotating to make contacts with the points, that does actually happen. Have you checked the resistance in your HT leads, shouldn't be greater than 6 kilohms per foot.

[AE85.6]

yup power on both terminals on the coil, ht leads are ok and the one from coil to dizzy too, nup havnt snapped cam belt turns over fine just no spark to fire it off

[AE85.6]

ok borrowed a spare coil and ignitor sadly the problem is not either of them, all fuses are fine also.

what to check next ???


i thought:

1) the crank sensor possibly ??? but i thought if that has gone and the spark timing is off it would run poor not stop completely or stop a spark from the coil all together,

2) the ecu ?

not sure what else at the moment ???

[matt dunn]

Possibly the dist.

The sensors have a habbit of going open circuit.

How many wires out of the dist? 3?

Matt

[AE85coupe]

make sure the coil is properly earthed to the chasis, check its mounting bolt

[AE85.6]

AE85coupe:
ye i wasnt sure if the mounting of the coil was also to earth it, but original coil was mounted sweet and i tried a different coil so i dont think it would be this,

matt dunn:
ah crap not by my car at the mo, i think from memory it is three but ill try swing past after work and check,

[10k 20v]

just remember toyots iginters earth themselves to the chassis, and if there not bolted up they don't work, probly no the problem but such simple things can cause so much of a headache
check to see if there is injector duty cycle

[AE85.6]

matt dunn:
ah i see, yup it has 3 wires going into the dizzy, red white and blue

10k 20v:
injector duty cycle ??? you mean to see whether they are actually working or ???

[AE85.6]

bump

[matt dunn]

do you have or have acess to a volt/ohm meter?

[AE85.6]

yup old man has one so when he gets home later o i can use it, hmmm mite be able to find another one thou, a mate has a spare dizzy also so i was prob just gonna try swapping that over to see what happens, cause i noticed the crank angle sensor also says "do not remove" and toyota say they dont even sell them you have to buy a new dizzy so i spose worth a shot to try,

failing that thou when i have a volt metre i can check out those three wires for what you tell me theyu should be doing

cheers again all, not fair thou im starting to get withdrawls from not driving it hehe

[matt dunn]

There's three wires in there,

dont remember what's what but easy to work out.

Call the A B C.

A to B should be 150 - 180 ohms from memory,
A to C should be 150 - 180 ohms too,
C to B should be 300 - 360 ohms.

that's the first test.

[AE85.6]

ok mate had a spare dizzy so tried swapping the whole thing,

sadly still had no spark so i think the problem is before the dizzy but what to check now cause ive pretty much run out of ideas,

looks like it could be a trip to the auto sparkie me thinks

[matt dunn]

Weird thing are a happening?

Just on the off chance,
take off the dist cap, crank it over, and see if the rotor spins.

Matt

[AE85.6]

ye rotor spins round fine but no spark to spread around to the points in the cap,

i thought this could be the case a while ago too but even if it was not spinning it should still send a spark from the coil lead wouldnt it ?

but yes it is spinning around,

i think it must just have a broken wire somewhere or a bad connection of some kind that has been getting worse and now has finally let go ???

[10k 20v]

if it has duty cycle at the injectors it suggests the failure is between the ecu and the coil, (igniter etc). If there is no duty cylce then it suggests the ecu has no power, has no crank angle input (dist. faulty or connections) or the ecu is faulty.

just incase that helps

Ewan

[matt dunn]

if it has duty cycle at the injectors it suggests the failure is between the ecu and the coil, (igniter etc). If there is no duty cylce then it suggests the ecu has no power, has no crank angle input (dist. faulty or connections) or the ecu is faulty.

just incase that helps

Ewan

Yes, that is a good way of determining if the fault is an input or output fault,

but unfortunatly not many people have the ability to test duty cycle as a lot of multi-meters dont have duty cycle function. and with the engine only doing cranking speed a lot of cheap meters dont pick up the small duty cycle you may get.

Matt

[10k 20v]

thats true, i just use a led test light to determine if duty cycle is present, quick and easy. You need to check that on mitsi's all the time

Chow

[AE85.6]

cool thankyou, anyone else have any clues ?