lowering a ke35 3"

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lowering a ke35 3"

Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:58 pm

whats the easiest way to lower my '75 ke35 3" in the front - legally? will king springs get it this low? or will i need to modify the struts etc? can someone who already knows please let me know.

any help would be appreciated.

cheers
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Postby YeMs » Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:23 pm

lol, is handling an issue? if not i would go for king springs, probably compressed or cut and shortened shocks?
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Postby kingcorolla » Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:29 pm

ok, if your broke: Flip the leaves, and cut the fronts. i do not advise you flip the leaves tho as it puts spring tension on the body. You could remove a stiff leaf from each, but you will consistanly break driveshaft yolks, due to torque flex, espesially from a 4age.. :wink:

if you got reasonable coin,: compress the fronts, with shock replacement, and install lowering blocks in the rear. You could also 'measure' up a set of kingas in the front.

leaf springs can also be reset to any height from a springmaker, which is an option.

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The possibiltys are endless, you get the picture, its all about the benjamins.





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Postby evil_si » Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:37 pm

ive just brought in from the states,
a pair of height adjustable front coil overs,
at the max height they sit about 2" lower than standard, and i could pretty much sit the chassis rail on the ground :roll: theres about 7" of downward adjustment, :D about $600 for the pair,

in the rear im running a set of reset leaf's dropped 3", with an extra leaf to tighten the rear end up 35 % was about $220
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Fri Feb 04, 2005 11:17 pm

do king springs not handle very well or something?

and in my first post i did say legally - so flipping the leafs is out of the question. i don't want to spend hundreds of $$ though just to get my car low though. my dad owns an engineering shop so would machining and rethreading the shocks be done very easily?

and also does anyone know what sort of "bracing" you need if your putting blocks bigger than 50mm in? the certifiers have told me i can go up to 80mm but anything over 50mm needs to have support bracing on the side of the blocks because of the height. he couldn't explain it though and suggested i come look at their manual but he's about an hours drive away :roll:
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Postby evil_si » Fri Feb 04, 2005 11:35 pm

you dont need any sort of bracing, the only requirement with blocks over 50mm is they need to be certed, up to 50mm dont need certing.
they must be of solid type, not just hollow box section tube.
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Postby YeMs » Sat Feb 05, 2005 1:52 pm

l1ttle_d3vil wrote:do king springs not handle very well or something?


i meant in the context that like u wont have alot of travel and alot of handling ability. yes it will b legal, no it wont be a sports car :)
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Sun Feb 06, 2005 10:59 am

evil_si wrote:you dont need any sort of bracing, the only requirement with blocks over 50mm is they need to be certed, up to 50mm dont need certing.
they must be of solid type, not just hollow box section tube.



i was told by the certifiers that you can lower a car about 30mm without needing certs and i asked what the lowest you can go is and he said 80mm but you need bracing for that low because of the sideways movement from the height of the block.

seems like all the certifiers make up their own rules :roll:
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Postby suberimakuri » Sun Feb 06, 2005 2:57 pm

i ran 2 leave packs combined and reset in the back of my sr.... was very very good.

progressive springs (aka kings) in the front are likely to be captive with standard length shocks.

As always, no point going low if it's not stiff sprung... else it'll travel too much.
no point going stiff sprung if you don't have shocks to match else it will be bouncey.
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