3T-GTE Problems - reving out

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3T-GTE Problems - reving out

Postby DIRTYDX » Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:25 pm

Has anyone had this problem before or know what could be causing it- Just finished of a 3tgte conversion into a ke36 and wired her up according to the wiring diagram floating around sumwhere on this site,wen i crank her over,she fires up and will start revving out at around 4 grand,im using the standard 3 pressure switches and the knock computer,can anyone help??
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Postby Andy7447 » Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:53 pm

if its got a auto choke check for air locks in the radiator lines.
if theres no water around the choke, it will rev high till water is around it,
take the radiator hose off and shove the hose in it and crank it, then fill the radiator bak up to fill what you lost when refitting the hose and see if that helps.
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Postby DIRTYDX » Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:13 am

Im guessing by the autochoke you mean the water temp sensor,i obtained some efi manuals from toyota and have measured the resistance across the two spades on the w/temp sensor and using the chart in the toyota manual she seemed about right -15 degrees celcius,even if it was reading say 1 degree she wouldnt rev at 4,000 rpm would she,seems abit excessive ?? im just hating to think how much damage im doing everytime i start the poor cold gurl up :( any other ideas?
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Postby overcast » Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:33 am

Tried adjusting the idle screw?
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Postby Logan » Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:42 am

or and air leak.
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Postby DIRTYDX » Tue Sep 20, 2005 11:10 am

Yes and yes,iv checked everywhere for possible air leaks even took the hose off the air valve below the phenum chamber and blocked it off just to make sure air wasnt by-passing the throttle body,i mean it would have to be a massive air leak to make it rev that much :?
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Postby DIRTYDX » Tue Sep 20, 2005 11:15 am

Does anyone know if 3tgte's use an inline resistor before the injectors,as iv'e measured the resistance of the injectors in her and they are defintly low inpedence (around 2.0 ohms) ,and everything ive read suggests i should be using one ?? Only thing is ive got a seperate complete standard 3tgte loom at home and ive checked every where i could think of in the wires going to the injectors and couldnt detect any resistance/resistor??
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Postby BlakJak » Tue Sep 20, 2005 11:15 am

Heh, i was car shopping for my sister and test drove a 92 familia, had the same problem.. thing would rev up to 3.5 or 4k solid when idling...
Didnt hear what happened to it, but thought you might appreciate knowing its probably not just a '3S' thing or tied to your conversion...
It does make me think, thermostat/autochoke/idler nut ..
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Postby RedMist » Tue Sep 20, 2005 11:51 am

Forget a fueling issue. Its air. You cant rev an engine to 4k on idle without massive amounts of air.
I have no idea as to how the 3tgte controls idle but its certainly worth a look. I'd be looking at the throttle plate to ensure its fully closed.

Have you attempted to find the leak using engine start?
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Postby DIRTYDX » Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:51 pm

Red mist : No i havent please explain how i would use engine start to detect air leaks ? Also could the way ive wired it cause it to rev or is air the only possible cause? Theres 3 pressure switches on the 3tgte - one for fuel cutoff for boost pressures over 9 psi,one vacumn switch and another for fuel enrichment for boost pressures over 2.15 psi,say if this fuel enrichment switch was earthing and telling the ecu that it was giving it heaps of fuel,that wouldnt in turn tell the afm to let in heaps of air would it?because as soon as i crank the engine up the flap in the afm opens wide open-this shouldnt be happening rite?..... i guess even if the afm flap was wide open it still has to pass through the throttle body to get into the engine and make it rev aye ?
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Postby wde_bdy » Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:14 pm

Check the throttle body butterfly isn't stuck open. I wouldn't think it would rev to 4000 just from an air leak, the 3T-GTE uses an AFM to measure fuel need so if excess air is leaking in then it would under fuel and probably stall. I'm no expert, but thats where I would start.

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Postby Logan » Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:57 pm

adjust the idle up bypass on the throttle body to a minium. or jsut playu with it and see if it makes a diff.

Next grab a can of CRC (this is kinda dodgy) and spray around in sucpected leak areas, engine note, rpm should change if there is a leak and it sucks it in.
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Postby YeMs » Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:42 pm

yeh as mentioned spray like engine start/crc/acetyline (if u have a gas plant, and alot easier to direct the accelerant to a direct area with the handle) and the engine rpm will change if it sucks sum of the accelerant into the engine. yeh, check throttle plate as well, make sure its not sticking open.. make sure u havnt got tension on the throttle cable ;)


AFAIK the ballast resistor for the injectors is actually inside the ECU (i kno it sounds stupid) but it was mentioned on http://forums.toymods.org.au/ (that website mite b of some help to, they deal with a few 3tgte's over there)

but if it was over fueling it would splutter and fart, wouldnt rev up to 4000rpm. if it was a manifold leak as well as over fueling then yeh mite do that. is it the right AFM for the motor?

i think u will have to bite the bullet and fire it up and just try adjusting every thing u can think of.

i DID have this problem once actually.. i was driving home from a mates and all of a sudden the car just started boosting on its own, kinda freaked me out so i clutched it and pulled over and it was reving in the vacinity of around 4000rpm.. i tried to give it a rev to see if maybe the throttle was stuck but to no avail.. so i just let it rev away and drove off like that, shortly it returned to normal operation. never had a problem since (well.. with it revving like that :P) mind you my motor was wired without any of those sensors.it will run fine without the boost enrichment and the vacuum switch. but needs the over boost cut off (all it is, is earthed untill it over boosts then the earth is removed, cutting fuel/spark *not sure which* untill the boost returns back to normal levels)
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Postby DIRTYDX » Wed Sep 21, 2005 2:29 pm

Cheers bro,are you still using the standard loom/ecu or have you gone aftermarket now,also you wouldnt know what the vacumn switch is for would you?? where can you get info on these engines,i realise haynes or any aftermarket manuals havent been made for this engine but does toyota have a manual specific to the 3tgte?
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Postby wde_bdy » Wed Sep 21, 2005 6:18 pm

DIRTYDX wrote:does toyota have a manual specific to the 3tgte?


Not in English. I found the best information is over on Toymods but the search engine SUCKS.

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Postby YeMs » Wed Sep 21, 2005 6:52 pm

yeh im using a link v5 ecu, far better than the factory ecu.. u get rid of those silly sensors, and a bunch of other crap like knock sensor etc. um iv found u can get info through toyota but u have many a cock to suck to get it.

from what i found it works like, why give sumone the information, when if you have the information tell them to bring the car to u and u fix it and make money.
but yeh i have been able to get a few diagrams through toyota, they wanted to charge me $140 for a printout of about 2 dozen pages of info but $&#$% that. theres always help. good dude to talk to in tauranga is steve bennet at the salvation army automotive place on maleme street, right at the start on the cameron road end. he lives and breaths these motors, iv gotten heaps of info from him.
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Postby DIRTYDX » Fri Sep 23, 2005 12:28 pm

Finally found the prob!!The c#$t i bought it off must have changed the inlet manifold over before he sold it to me and half the inlet mani gasket was missing-huge leakage :lol: Didnt even think of looking there coz id made sure the manifold bolts were all nipped up before i dropped the engine in and just assumed the gasket would have been a minta :roll:

Just one final question,wat sort of revs should she be idling at on 1.start up and 2.once water temp has come up and the water temp sensor has stop enrichening the mixture?when shes cold shes revving at about 2100 rpm,im thinking this is still a little to high?may still have another airleak somewhere?

Cheers for everyones help!! :D
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Postby YeMs » Mon Sep 26, 2005 12:05 am

id say another air leak, shouldnt really idle much higher than 1500rpm really on cold start, even thats quite high.seperated the plenum from the manifold and checked the gasket? and the throttle body and plenum? mite b worth a check considering the other was fcked.
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