AE111 stabiliser bar

[Mr Revhead]

yep

s/s only changes spring and bush rates in the rear

[BigDon]

I have these on my Non SS AE101 FXGT along with TRD Coilovers and 3 way front Brace. From what I understand the AE111 parts are the same as AE101 (have same parts number on trd website anyway) but I am sure Rev head or TRDMAN will correct me if I am wrong.

Specs:

TRD front sway bar 28mm, 57% higher spring rate
TRD front sway bar 19.1mm, 27% higher spring rate
http://babel.altavista.com/babelfish/tr ... lizer.html
http://babel.altavista.com/babelfish/tr ... erbar.html

I have ordered a rear strut brace from Whiteline as it appears they have one that may fit. Check out the catalogue here:

http://whiteline.com.au/docs/catalogues/WL_02c.pdf

I have also found a GAB lower arm bar has anyone got one of these or know if they are any good?

http://www.fortyone.co.nz/parts/view/12610.html#

I have front 25mm and rear 16mm factory sway bars for sale if you want to double up, and also a front strut brace. Also have some TRD bushes that were surplus to requirements.
viewtopic.php?t=36856

[alastabesta]

could I just ask something...
if AE101 and AE111 share the same stuffs, why is there a price difference between AE101 strut tower bar
http://www.fortyone.co.nz/parts/view/11162.html
and AE111 strut tower bar
http://www.fortyone.co.nz/parts/view/11160.html
$10 difference isn't much, if anything. but why is there a difference at the first place...?

and would someone be kind enough as to enlighten me on the topic of whats the difference in gains over putting a strut bar and strut tower in? is it worth spending the extra $100 for the tower?

Sorry but I'm a newbie

[BigDon]

Front Strut bar = front strut tower bar.

Tower is a reference to the suspension tower that the strut is bolted into. The strut tower bar or strut bar, bolts on to the same points on the strut tower that the struts bolts into and is supposed to stop the strut tower flexing under load and altering the wheel/suspension geometry.

Some strut bars are 3 point ones like the TRD items which as well as bracing tower to tower, they triangulate the brace on to the firewall. Given that the factory brace connects to the firewall I went for the TRD tri brace.

As for the price difference I don't know, but the pictures sure look the same!

I am sure the TRDMAN or Revhead could give you a good price on a TRD brace but budget around the $400 mark.

[alastabesta]

ic...
saw Tanabe underbrace and GAB lower arms on www.fortyone.co.nz for AE111. are those interchangable between front and back? In other words, you just buy 2 of them and chuck one on each end of the car?
and could someone please tell me the difference between a strut tower and a strut bar?

[AceSniper]

could I just ask something...
if AE101 and AE111 share the same stuffs, why is there a price difference between AE101 strut tower bar
http://www.fortyone.co.nz/parts/view/11162.html
and AE111 strut tower bar
http://www.fortyone.co.nz/parts/view/11160.html
$10 difference isn't much, if anything. but why is there a difference at the first place...?

and would someone be kind enough as to enlighten me on the topic of whats the difference in gains over putting a strut bar and strut tower in? is it worth spending the extra $100 for the tower?

Sorry but I'm a newbie

you will prolly find that the ae111 item has a small drilled plate on the right side to hold the map sensor, while the ae101 prolly wont

[KinLoud]

I'm not familiar with sway bar stuffs, as long as it fits and gives me better cornering...

I just want to make sure that you understand that less body roll doesn't necessarily mean more grip for cornering.
There are many factors involved in improving cornering power.
If you go too big a swaybar in the rear it can give less grip (great for drift, bad for grip). More weight transfer = less total grip.
If you go too big a swaybar in the front it can give less grip (understeer)
Anything you do has to thought out and balanced front to rear.
Front wheel drive cars tend to understeer so often a swaybar (or bigger swaybar) if fitted to the rear to reduce the rear grip - this is to balance the cars handling more towards neutral and make it nicer to drive.
Most cars are set up to have understeer when pushed. This is because the average driver finds it easier to deal with understeer by turning the wheel more. It can take experience and fast reactions to catch a car when it begins to oversteer!!
Also think about your wheel alignment... if you have enough negative camber to get the best cornering grip (I run about -3 to -4 degrees on the front of my racecar) it will root tyres quickly for normal (fast) road driving.

Ken
Ham
021 408 863

[alastabesta]

Thank you for the detailed explanation
I don't want to go into negative camber side of things cos that wears out the tyres fairly quickly, but I never thought about the oversteer issue that could result as I put the anti-sway bars in...

[Mr Revhead]

tyre wear and camber can depend on how you drive.....

i run 1-1.5neg on the front and a little on the rear as i can.
on the ae101 the stock rear camber is something silly like 1.5neg and 1 on the front. swapping those back to front makes a huge difference.
the alignment guy swore id wear the insides out, but they wear evenly for me

[Andy]

Hey mate you still look for front strut brace? Saw this on trademe...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Suspension-braces/auction-39934819.htm

Not sure how easy it would be to install this and still keep the factory brace though.

from Andy

[alastabesta]

what about taking the factory brace off and put that one on...? are there any side effects of having the factory brace off?

[Mr Revhead]

the best is the 3 point ones
that ties up the whole front

[Andy]

Alastabesta, lets see if we have some spare time on the day you pick up the air filter, if time allows, we could do a little experiment regarding on front strut brace.

from Andy

[alastabesta]

k sweet
I'll need to give TWSTD a pm regarding the vac hose and the joiner and then will head to your place