ae101 suspension

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ae101 suspension

Postby Mike- » Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:53 am

i just got a new lower outer suspension arm and wondering how to change it, is it a case of bolt off, bolt on or is there more to it, any advice appreciated thanks

mike

ae101 superstrut

also are the wheel studs meant to move around in the hub??
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Postby luvnit » Sat Nov 12, 2005 11:08 am

nope ive never come across the wheel studs moving on any of the cars ive owned, the welds on the inside of the stud may be broken
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Postby Mike- » Sat Nov 12, 2005 11:10 am

the whole brake disc rotor is loose, this is a bad thing right?
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Postby luvnit » Sat Nov 12, 2005 11:16 am

um yeah i wouldnt recomend driving on that, ive never had that problem so i dont how to fix that, but im sure someone on here does
i want a turbo, why not 2... new car
1993 mitsubishi galant vr4 TT
now with a poked rear diff

http://toyspeed.blakjak.net/profiles/pr ... hp?id=1464 - updated with new car
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Postby Mike- » Sat Nov 12, 2005 11:23 am

been driving on it for ages, always thought it was the ball joint that made the noise haha how do i get the disc rotor off?
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Postby KinLoud » Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:08 am

When the wheel is bolted onto the hub it clamps the disk against the hub so it can't move. If you take the wheel off the disk will be able to move a bit relative to the hub and wheel studs.

To put the new arm on - it's pretty much bolt off bolt on BUT.....
one of the joints is a taper fit and will need to be persuaded to come off once you have removed the nut. Sometimes this joint will come apart easily (almost fall apart once unbolted) but often if will be difficult.
Start by try to undo this joint. If it won't come apart easily, bolt it back together until you can get a garage or someone with suitable joint splitters to undo it for you.

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Re: ae101 suspension

Postby Punter » Sun Nov 13, 2005 7:22 pm

Mike- wrote:also are the wheel studs meant to move around in the hub??


No there not but its no biggy, the best way to set them in place is to use a bit nut as a spacer, one that will slide over the stud not touching it ( make sure the wheel nut won't fit through it ) then just put it over the stud and do up the wheel nut reasobly tight.

They are just a crush fit so should be fine.

A Kinloud is right 99% of the time you will need joint splitters.
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Postby Crucible » Sun Nov 13, 2005 9:20 pm

KinLoud wrote:To put the new arm on - it's pretty much bolt off bolt on BUT.....
one of the joints is a taper fit and will need to be persuaded to come off once you have removed the nut. Sometimes this joint will come apart easily (almost fall apart once unbolted) but often if will be difficult.


Just a quick note - The control arm balljoint is located in a plate which is bolted to the hub, Ive come across two which have flogged the holes out in the plate quite badly, just have a squizzy and make sure before you refit the new arm that the hole isnt oval. I talked to a toyota wrecker and he said these are just as common for wear alongside control arms and the Dogbone joints.

Like Kinloud mentioned seperating the dogbone joint from the control arm can be a bitch!, I havent had much luke getting these puppys apart with fork splitters at all. A good quality screw type splitter eventually done the job for me :lol:

Just something to look out for :lol:

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