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Jebus wrote:Anyone know if the 20V uses a screw type or wether it bolts on?
True-No-Turbo wrote:Jebus wrote:Anyone know if the 20V uses a screw type or wether it bolts on?
I believe they are fastened with 2 bolts, Like jebus says dont run without it, the e.c.u cant judge wheather its running lean or rich, its there for a reason....
TNT
sergei wrote:Most of OEM oxygen sensors are of same type. The 20V would be better option to use because of internal heater, meaning it takes only couple of minutes to warm up. You will have to connect heater wires (2 black) to 12V supply switched on when ignition is on.
To determine which wire to use for signal output either find wiring diagram with pin outs on plug or use butane torch and heat it up (butane is essential because of it's hydrocarbon nature) while it is connected to a multimeter in 2V range, use + side as your signal wire to ECU and connect - to ground (if multimeter shows positive values, multimeter positive would be your oxygene sensor positive and viceversa). BTW the good oxygene sensor should get to atleast 0.95V within a minute and stay there as long as flame touches it. This is a good test to show if oxygene sensor is in good nick. Also it is possible to restore a clogged up oxygene sensor if it stopped working in the car due to overfueling/oil consumption, but it does not work all the time, if you oxygene sensor is covered in thick black stuff you might be lucky, as when you aply hot flame to it it will burn it off.
sergei wrote:All common Toyota narrow band O2 sensors are of same type. It does not matter if it is heated or not, electrically they are all the same. Only different are the ones wich go after cat converter, but they only appear in export/luxury cars, and I think they are wideband sensors.
RickGT wrote:so in the 20v sensor 1 of the grey cables for the sender should be grounded am i rite?
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