every wire needed to start silvertop

[matt9ball]

been having trouble with this for a while now.does any1 know the exact wires and there codes that you need to start a silver top?ive got muitimeter and have checked all i can think of to get my car going.have noticed before that FC wire on the afm is not connected.and some resitance in THA the air temp sensor.any ideas?no voltage or ohm in the 4 main earths.

[deaf_rattle]

where abouts are you based?

[sergei]

to start the car you don't need most of the sensors, all temp sensors can go, you will only need AFM, TPS and Distributor hooked up, make sure your AFM is switching on the fuel pump, and ECU has power and ground supplied. The injector ignitor and coil might have separate power...

[slighty_sykotic]

Don't even need tps to start it

(my car has started and driven a couple of times before i replaced the broken tps plug that kept falling off...)

--Sykotic

[matt9ball]

thanks guys and christchurch deaf rattle?sergei how can i check if afm is switching fuel pump on??ecu has power and ground.

[matt9ball]

when cranking its back firing from the exaust when giving gas.like to much fuel id say.FC on afm has been cut and THA has alot of resitance through it.

[matt9ball]

igniter and injector all have power too

[85AW20v]

Are you sure that your cam timing is right? If you've had the timing belt off, check that you've lined up the correct cam wheel timing marks as on the vvt pulley there are 2 marks and it's not the 2 that look the same on each pulley that you use! When no 1 piston is at TDC, you also be able to see an indent on the top of inlet cam through the oil filler hole. If you can't and the exhaust cam is lined up correctly, you've picked the wrong timing mark on the vvt pulley. Been there - done that.

[sergei]

To check if AFM fuel cut circuit is working, if afm does not have the airbox or filter attached to it: push the flap with finger and listen if fuel pump turns on (hissing in fuel lines, high pitch wine from pump). If you have all the stuff on, just jump FP and +B (or supply directly 12V to fuel pump wire which should be blue-something) and try to start it, if it will start it means FC is not conected properly. Don't worry about THA at this point even if it has high resistance tha car should start, it might not idle without keeping throttles open (or idle rough). Usually high resistance means low temp, normally it should be 1-2kOhms (from memory)..

[matt9ball]

ok have tryed testing to see if fuel afm is switching fuel on and its constanly making that nosie you described as soon as i turn on the ignition and when i push open the flap on the afm there is no change in sound.its like the fuel is coming in constanly and thats why its making that deep poping noise out exaush when i crank.how can i check or fix this what seems to sound like non stop fuel intake?

[matt9ball]

FC has been cut and is not hooked up to nothing.

[slighty_sykotic]

Fuel pump is hooked up backwards? And running all the time?

--Sykotic

[sergei]

I should not affect the startng if fuel pump is running all the time, normally when engine is running the fuel pump should run as well. The amount of fuel is controlled by ecu through injectors.
in your case if it is back firing it sound like you migh have timing wrong (either valve or ignition timing)

[matt9ball]

so valve and ignition timinng have to be checked?how can i do this?

[sergei]

valve timing - check cambelt pulley alignment marks, set the crank shaft to TDC (on crank shaft pulley little grove should line with 0 on cambelt cover).
Take off top cam belt cover, check if the marks line up with top marks on the rocker cover, and against each other between pulleys - marks should be pointing to each other. (there are 2 sets of marks, one set should be pointing up, other set should be pointing 90' towards each other).