Crank Pulley

[z0ton]

Does anyone know what size the bolt holes on the crank pulley are? The ones you use to screw a pulley remover into to get it off. Ive brought a cheap harmonic balancer pulley remover but the bolts that came with it dont fit my crank pulley.

I have a 1991 20V Silvertop and heres a pic of some pulley to show you which holes I mean.

http://www.7ent.com/newmini/images2/7nm6008.jpg

[Crucible]

Does anyone know what size the bolt holes on the crank pulley are? The ones you use to screw a pulley remover into to get it off. Ive brought a cheap harmonic balancer pulley remover but the bolts that came with it dont fit my crank pulley.

I have a 1991 20V Silvertop and heres a pic of some pulley to show you which holes I mean.

http://www.7ent.com/newmini/images2/7nm6008.jpg

Looks M6 x 1.0 to me, most crank pulleys are this thread also.

[z0ton]

You know I mean the little holes ay? So thats their size?

[Crucible]

You know I mean the little holes ay? So thats their size?

Yeah the inner holes opposite to each other, Take a 10mm head bolt out of your engine bay somewhere and try it in the pulley, if it fits its M6x1.0mm. I think the next common size up would be M8 x 1.25. you need a bunch of old metric bolts you can try, and just take the one that fits to Mitre 10 and match it up.

[peas]

Just in the process of doing this myself and are having issues. Any trick to cracking the nut? The belts and all other parts have been removed and I have tried with a substantial power bar but just end up having any torque taken up by the engine mounts. Is it really a rattle gun only job? If so anyone got a gun and compressor that they want to loan I cant move the car unfortunately.

[sergei]

find some one with the gas torch, and make that bolt red hot, then spray CRC, and try to crack it while hot.

if it does not work, there is a dodgy way, but you must have power bar + piece of wood handy, put the socket on the bolt with power bar hard against the wood, which hard against the lower suspension arm, get in the car, make sure there are no people/kids/dogs/other pets close, start the engine, after first "bang" get out and check if the nut is loose, and if you killed couple of animals in proccess...

if that fails, I guess drilling it out with 5mm, then 8mm then 10mm, slow speed drill.. trying to undo it in between increments.

[Caveman]

Just in the process of doing this myself and are having issues. Any trick to cracking the nut? The belts and all other parts have been removed and I have tried with a substantial power bar but just end up having any torque taken up by the engine mounts. Is it really a rattle gun only job? If so anyone got a gun and compressor that they want to loan I cant move the car unfortunately.

I tried a rattle gun on my mates car on 160psi and wouldnt come off, wtf Ended up cranking it using sergeis method

[peas]

I have heard of that method... I have already drained all the fluids from the engine though... is this going to be a major damage issue, considering that it will only be cranked not started and with a bit of luck it will only be SFA of a revolution I would have thought not but expensive if it is! The jappas rotate clockwise with the excetion of a gay manufacturer that we dont mention here...?

[Crucible]

I have heard of that method... I have already drained all the fluids from the engine though... is this going to be a major damage issue, considering that it will only be cranked not started and with a bit of luck it will only be SFA of a revolution I would have thought not but expensive if it is! The jappas rotate clockwise with the excetion of a [person of homosexual orientation] manufacturer that we dont mention here...?

Worst comes to worst you can get tyre places like beurepaires to come around and blow it off with a 3/4 gun as they have all the gear on their fleet trucks. Way more torque than 1/2 inch guns period. Had to do this the odd time on honda crank bolts as they get Very tight!!

[pc]

pull the started motor out and get someone to hold the flywheel still by jamming a crowbar in the teeth.
get an impact socket and put it on your power bar. put a 5 foot jack handle over the end of the power bar (giving you around 5.5 feet leverage) wrap the socket end in a towel (scatter shield). get a couple of guys and pull really hard.

If that doesn't work, or break something, then your a nanna.

[peas]

Yeah I think the tyre guy would be a good last resort. Just got battery out of my other car (so I know its got plenty of charge) and used some jumpers to hook it up, removed the EFI (gas everywhere aint cool) relay and tried cranking it but I just get a click. I have armed then disarmed the alarm to make sure theres no immobiliser screwing things up. I have the loom in the engine bay mostly unplugged but have tried it after plugging the AFM back in and putting all the grounds that I could find back on but still nothing! Basically what is not plugged in is the fuel side fo things and an plug that woudl have been on the supercharger which is now not on the car.

Any ideas?

[Mr Revhead]

if trying the crank it over method, unplug the coil lead if youi dont trust ya self to give it a flick

i know a few techs that use that method routinly.

how ever using the proper tool has always worked for me

[peas]

Theres no fuel rail on it or anything else really so Im not so worried about it actually starting, just why it wont crank at all!

Proper tool?... I won't hear of it

[sergei]

you probably have a bad ground issue, plus bad jumper leads...

[Crucible]

Theres no fuel rail on it or anything else really so Im not so worried about it actually starting, just why it wont crank at all!

Proper tool?... I won't hear of it

Just run the leads straight to the starter, and bridge the solenoid, good earth, good current...thats if youve got a good battery and capable leads

[z0ton]

I ended up getting mine undone with a 600mm 1/2" drive powerbar and an impact socket. I locked up the crank pulley and it wasnt too much trouble.

[matt dunn]

I usually put the car in 4th and get someone to get in and jam on the brakes,

Then it's just a matter of getting a bar and appropiate socket and getting it setup right so that after it has taken the slack of the engine mounts,
that the bar in in the right place to be able to get a good grip on it.

Probably helps that my engine mounts have been welded solid.

Matt

[Dragger_Dan]

Get a nice long piece of steel tube that fits over the end of your powerbar for more leverage. Works a treat for getting off crank bolts, drive shaft nuts in the hub, and getting rid of rodents.